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VitusBering

NRG Member
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About VitusBering

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Capitan, NM, USA
  • Interests
    Tall ships and nautical history.

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  1. Time flies... my poor vessel has been in dry dock for too long. So have I. I do intend to start shipbuilding again soon. I don't know what soon means, though. I hope only a couple of weeks at most.
  2. I have been MIA for a couple of months due to a health crisis. I am back in the wheelhouse part time and feeling pretty good. Before the unfortunate events I made some progress but not enough to post pics quite yet so you all will have to take my word that I've got most of the foremast yards rigged up with Flemish horses, footropes, jackstays, pulleys, and blocks. All but the top two spars are done and ready to hang but they will have to wait until all of the mast's yards are ready. The other two mast's yards don't have jackstays yet and are not yet painted. I have a lot of work to do before I can post pics but now that I am ambulatory again I think I can make tangible progress in a relatively short time.
  3. I hear you loud and clear. I know I'll have to make hard choices with my Cutty Sark. I've said all along I don't intend to build a museum piece or even a generally historically correct model. I want to find a balance of customization that goes well beyond the simplistic original kit but doesn't end up as a messy spider web. Even then, it will be an interesting endeavor because the kit, of course, has no provision for pretty much of anything in the way of running rigging.
  4. You may well be right, I'm just now starting the running rigging and do plan to add much more detail than is listed in the instructions for either kit. It does promise to be a daunting task. And, as I said, my words were based on a shallow knowledge of the Connie kit.
  5. I haven't built the Constitution so I can't really advise - only guess that it is more complex than the Cutty Sark based on build logs here. I'm building a hybrid H-399 (1974) and 05422 (2017) Cutty Sark. I completely agree with Snug Harbor Johnny that the later kit does have more flash and a softer plastic composition. If (eh, when) I build this kit again it will be after I acquire a 3D printer to make my own more robust versions of some of the more fragile components. I had to undo and redo the mizzen backstays and rig the forestays first to prevent the mast from bending horribly. Lesson learned.
  6. I'm not sure of the source for these - and I apologize to the guy who linked them for me originally because I can't find that original post yet. It is quite likely in my old build log but I haven't seen it. cutty sark drawings.zip This set is from Radimir Beseda at hismodel.com. They have icons denoting which blocks are installed on various lines. They're most useful if you have Radimir's accessory set but they may come in handy otherwise as well. hismodel drawings.zip
  7. Thank you for your kind words Noel. Yes, those plans are the Campbell drawings. This particular set is from the Royal Museums Greenwich. They're pleasant to have as wall art, and a handy reference (though the electronic zoomable versions are more convenient).
  8. If you mean styrene sheets then yes, of course. Evergreen makes sheets as thin as .005 in. (0.13mm). On cutting styrene, for a straight cut, score it first with a sharp knife. The styrene will break cleanly on the scored line. For curves, I use scissors but cut wide of the line and sand the sheet to the final shape.
  9. These are the 1974 Revell (kit number H-399) instructions. Running rigging starts on page 18 and is probably the most relevant to your question - there are instructions for the sheets and clew lines and a map of belaying pin locations. Cutty Sark 1-96 Revell 1974-1.pdf These are the 2017 Revell (kit number 05422) instructions. Running rigging starts on page 34. Same deal including belaying pin layouts. Cutty Sark 1-96 Revell 2017-1.PDF There are minor differences for tie points between these versions, you choose. I'm building the 05422 kit now and am starting the running rigging so I'm also struggling with these same issues. I haven't hung the yards yet, I'm just finishing adding backstays, Flemish horses, footropes, blocks, and pulleys. One of the questions I have yet to figure out is how the sheets and downhauls get routed through fairleads on the mast tops and crosstrees to the pin rails. It is quite a puzzle. I certainly agree with NoelSmith that the Longridge and Hackney books are invaluable resources.
  10. The standing rigging is as done as it can get for now. The ship is balanced on the stands, they're not glued to the hull nor are standoffs permanently attached, this is just a test to see if I like the color. Yard sling chains are installed, will be trimmed to length when the yards are attached. Now I'll start work on the yards. They need lots of stuff like jackstays, Flemish horses, footropes, a variety of blocks and pulleys, etc.
  11. Just a short update note - I did recover from the glue spill, the shrouds are replaced and look good as new. I only have the starboard bottom tier ratline rungs on the main and fore masts left to tie, all the rest are done. When those are tied (only a few days from now, I'm guessing) I plan to do the touchup painting. There's not much to do there but it is something I have on my to-do list. Once that is done she'll go into dry dock for a time because the standing rigging will be as complete as I can get it before the yards are hung. I'll post pics at that point. Thank you all for your continued interest and patience 😉
  12. I'm jealous. I've been looking for one of those early Revell Thermopylae kits. I think I've found one, we'll see when it arrives. As with yourself, there's no telling when I'll get around to building it... my Cutty Sark will be a year or better before it is done and then I'll probably start another. Scott, I'll be following your restoration with great interest. Best of luck!
  13. Minor disaster... the knots for the starboard foremast shrouds were not set and the shrouds were a bit loose so I tightened them and intended to put a drop of CA at the upper wrap point. Instead of a drop a gush happened and the glue ran down the shrouds. I've had to cut them loose. The upper wraps are fairly cemented in place so I will try to wrap over that with the new shrouds. It isn't a fatal mistake but a very disheartening one but I'll recover as best as I am able. No pics, yet, it is too embarrassing but I'll let you folks tell me if it is too noticeable when I get the ratlines tied.
  14. Beautiful! One of my flying buddies built a 1/4 scale Wildcat and the gear retraction was a pure joy to behold. Unfortunately the plane survived two flights. That gear, combined with a heavier than recommended radial motor, made for a craft with a CG way too far forward so it was a beast to fly and impossible to land gently. The second flight landing didn't seem all that rough but it wiped the undercarriage clean. It is a gorgeous craft though and your model is fantastic.
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