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Bluto 1790

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About Bluto 1790

  • Birthday 02/17/1947

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edinburgh, Scotland.
  • Interests
    Model ship building; Model railways; Archery; Pedal Steel Guitar. Woodworking.

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  1. Tom, it's great to see someone so happy to be doing ratlines! . . . and you're not going to count them ??? (Welcome to the mushy brain club!)
  2. Thanks for the comments, G.L. and Guy and to the others for the likes and visits. Some progress on the orlop deck. The only drawing I have showing the configuration of the orlop deck planking is this > Every time I had looked at that drawing I didn't understand why these planks were different to those on the gun decks and quarterdeck -- until recently when trawling through some build logs on here. Then it made sense to me --- a number of the orlop planks are removeable in order to create more access to the hold. As they're arranged in sections across the ship this was my first attempt > The 3 empty spaces are for these > I don't believe that all of the removeable planks had lifting rings and only a few would need these rings. The 'plain' planks could have been lifted once a 'ringed' plank had been lifted. A week or so and about 80% had been done. With the gratings and a few planks lifted out. Then the deck was finished. The gap immediately ahead of the fore grating will later accommodate this > Some of the above photos reveal that the orlop inner hull planking is done and is painted white. (I believe it was called 'white stuff' in sailing days.) It seems it was the practice to paint the 'walls' and 'ceilings' of all decks from the orlop upwards with 'white stuff'. It served to create better visibility down in these rather dark decks and it will help brighten up the inside of this section.
  3. Hi Tom, I don't know exactly how you created the keel (for the frames) and the fore and aft 'spine' onto which you attached the bulkheads but I'm guessing you may have made something like what I've tried to draw below? (I assume that from stem to stern the "thing" had to be a single piece, or a manufactured single piece?) Maybe that's what Guy is trying to see?
  4. Looking around for ideas for things to put in the hold I spotted one build with an anchor lashed to one of the pillars. First attempt at making an anchor as for my other build I had just bought and assembled the anchors. Didn't have any suitable brass so, wood it would be. A lamination of about 7 layers of 0.6mm veneer gave me a 'chunk' of wood from which to cut a blank for an anchor. The blank, with flukes just made from 3 layers of card glued together and cut to shape. With the flukes glued on. Only metal part is the ring made from 1mm brass wire. and some black acrylic paint made it look a little more like an anchor. In post #17 above I mentioned a future grating. Along with the removable planking on the orlop deck I plan to include 2 gratings which will occupy the spaces outlined in red in the following > That milling machine was in use again cutting the 'grooves' in the 'teeth' of the 2mm strips. A 2mm cutter was used along with strips of 2mm and the 'holes' are also 2mm, which, at this scale equates to just over 3 inches (C.80mm) which I believe was close to the Navy Board's 'establishment'. While the 'teeth' will maintain a regular spacing, that would only be in one direction, so I had to create a jig to keep the spacing correct in the other direction. Another call for the milling machine with its 2mm cutter. This is just a scrap piece of wood and the large hole and groove were already there.
  5. Hi Michael, Thank you for your comment. I'm sure you'll recognise the lanterns! At first I didn't have a firm idea of how I would make the lanterns ~~ until I saw the ones you had made for your Santisima Trinidad, then I knew that was the way I would go.
  6. Pressed on and got the carlings and ledges finished. I cheated a little with the ledges in the two aft sections and just made them full width. As the deck will be planked none of what lies beneath will be visible Previously, in post #16 above, I stated that I would have to wait until the inside hull planking is done on orlop deck before I could make the (upper) breadth rider sections. I changed my mind -- I reckoned it would be quite tricky getting the exact profile on the riders to match the inner planking especially with all those carlings and ledges in the way. So I went ahead and fitted the final upper sections of the riders first. As far as I can see, there are no hanging knees for the orlop deck beams, only lodging knees. It didn't look possible to fit knees to the far side of that third beam (as seen from the view in the photo above) as the mid riders are adjacent to that face of the beam, so I had a try at opposing knees for that beam and the one nearer. By the time I had done the carlings and ledges, and also before I had fitted the upper breadth riders, I wanted to get the 4 hold lanterns fitted. That job was very tricky as it was, and I expect it would have been virtually impossible with the orlop deck planking in place. I used the milling machine to run grooves in four of the carlings as shown circled in the following photo. These grooves were for the wiring of the two aft hold lanterns. I hope to have around 18 lanterns eventually with 4 on most levels. So far, only made 4 lanterns. Made from 3mm O/D clear tubing with a Pico LED light held inside with a spot of glue, black paper strips glued on to simulate the frame. The wires on these lights aren't much thicker than a human hair and are very difficult to work with. It's not possible to strip the insulating cover from the wire -- it has to be burned off. I checked and double checked that each light was working before fitting them as once they're fitted, that's it - no going back. If they ever need replacing I'll have to recruit some of the 'little people'! The aft lanterns. The fore lanterns. . . . and the "four" lanterns.
  7. Time to secure the beams so some pillars required. Being square in section these were fairly straightforward -- just had to create a stopped chamfer on the corners of each pillar. Just clamped each in the vice, held the other end in my hand and made the chamfers with a sanding stick. Drilled a 1mm hole in the centre of the top and bottom of each pillar and a corresponding hole in the underside of each beam and down into the keelson and used small pieces of 1mm brass wire to ensure they stayed where they're meant to be. First two beams and pillars in place. Then all six. Six beams but only five pillars. The shot locker/lower well took care of the 'missing' pillar. Apart from a few areas, the whole of the orlop deck will be covered so what lies beneath the planks won't be seen, so as this will be my first time at creating anything like proper beams, carlings, ledges and knees I'm using this deck for a little experimenting. The photo above shows carlings between the first 2 beams and an attempt at a couple of lodging knees. The next shows my first attempt at ledges. When I began to cut the stopped mortice for the ledge in the left-hand knee I started at the wrong side ~ so the stopped mortice became a through mortice! The "hole" in the centre between the two beams (where there is no ledge) is for a future grating.
  8. Thanks for your further comment, Michael. Although the orlop deck beams have the mortices for the carlings cut, the carlings and ledges won't be cut until the hold is completed. A fairly substantial part of the hold are the riders. Very little - almost nothing - of the riders is shown in the drawings, and in fact, there is nothing of them in the 50 Gun Ship book. Only the section drawing that I posted at the beginning of this thread shows their approximate shape, and one other drawing of the orlop deck gives a few clues as to their positions. Here's that drawing, in which I've indicated in red what appears to be five riders, and only the three aftmost of these will occur in the section I'm building. I've arrowed these three riders > I started using card trying to get the profiles and after a few pieces of card got the first one fairly close -- then I bought this > That made it much easier and quicker to get the required profile which was transferred to card, tweaked a little then transferred onto the wood for cutting out on the bandsaw > The aftmost of the floor riders > . . . and with the foremost of the three > The first test 'ride' of the three floor riders > The orlop drawing above appears to show that middle rider just a little ahead of the main mast, and as such, looks like it would pass through the shot locker, so I cheated a little with that one and made it in 2 pieces. Here it's shown with the first futtock riders > Here, with the aft rider and both with their first futtock riders > All three with their futtock riders get a test 'ride' before permanent fitting < Well, need to get the orlop beams on so time to make these riders a permanent part of the ship. Aft rider glued and nailed on (deck beam just clamped on in order to get the rider in the correct position) > Riders and beams get to be together in the same hull (beams still just dry fitted here as the support pillars are still to be made) > Will have to wait until the inside hull planking is done on orlop deck before I can make the (upper) breadth rider sections.
  9. Hi Tom, While I personally can't give a definitive answer to your question, I would just say to you what I find I have to say to myself frequently while trying to find accurate information about these 50 gun ships ~~~ and that is, there is a lack of complete information on quite a few aspects of the build features of these ships and for some things I have to 'make it up as I go along'. That doesn't mean that I just do any old thing! . . . but I find I have to adapt features from other ships from the same time period. I tried googling for the date of the introduction of sheer poles but google didn't know. I would just say "do what you feel you want to in the absence of firm evidence one way or the other." Here's a photo of a model of Leopard showing sheer poles on the foremast shrouds -- but I'm guessing that modeller made their own conscious decision about whether or not to include them. (This modeller fitted sheer poles on all masts.)
  10. Thanks Michael for the comments and the others for the likes and looking in. Michael, you're right ~ the big scale is very nice to work with. My other build was only about half of that scale and there sure were plenty tricky things to work on there! Although the other one was a complete ship, it was a bulkhead model so there are so many things that I'm facing for the first time with this build as, below the lower deck on the other build there was nothing like there is on this one. You asked if I'll be adding 'filler' material on each deck, and yes, I'm pretty much trying to get each deck complete before moving up. I've already found your cross section build log and have been through it several times! ~ It's something of a tutorial for me in this section I'm doing. There are so many great ideas on your build that I've got it earmarked! I'm about to make a start on doing some lanterns . . . and guess whose method I'm copying? !! I'm a bit of a prowler, looking through so many build logs trying to get ideas . . . and there are plenty of them!
  11. Another 'side project' I did while the hold planking was being done was to make the 'easy' orlop deck beams. 'Easy' as they're flat without camber. Dry fitted > Only the outside faces of the two end beams were beech; the other 4 beams I made from softwood as I'm trying to stretch out my dwindling supply of beech as the lockdown continues and no timber merchants are open yet. In the photos above only the closest beam had had the mortices cut for the carlings. I cut these with a 3mm chisel but cutting the softwood beams left the edges a little less sharp than I hoped for, so I completed these on the bandsaw. I used a stop block clamped around and behind the blade in order to control the depth of cut. As the bandsaw cuts the full height, I had to glue in fillers at the bottom of each mortice. Cutting off the excess and then some sanding, and the mortices looked acceptable. and back in for a second dry fit before going in 'the box' The positions and configuration of the beams, carlings and ledges, as well as knees will be a little bit of guesswork, as, to my knowledge, there exist no 100% accurate drawings and plans for these in any 50 gun ship. In particular, there is virtually no information about the hold area and very little about the orlop deck. I am basing a lot of what I am building on what I see on other build logs of English ships of a similar era. My aim is to finish with something that isn't a 100% accurate model (I don't think that is possible), but to end up with something that is reasonably representative of these 4th rate ships.
  12. It may seem a bit early in this build to mention pumps - - but while sailing ships wouldn't go anywhere without sails and would be fairly uncontrollable without a rudder, without pumps they wouldn't stay afloat for very long. This, being a section, won't have sails nor a rudder so I thought at least it should have pumps. Just a few weeks ago I knew very little about pumps but my research and asking questions has turned up some good information although it wasn't the easiest to find. The Elm Tree pumps: Neither "The 50 Gun Ship" book nor any of the plans/drawings I have of the 50 gun ship make any mention of these pumps. In one answer to my question on Google , one "knowledgeable" person said these were the chain pumps -- that is INCORRECT -- the chain pumps are completely different. The elm tree pumps (or brake pumps) were used to draw water either directly from the sea (by means of a "hole in the hull") or from a watertight cistern in the hold which was filled by drawing water in through the hull. The function of these pumps was to provide water for deck washing and firefighting if required. The Chain Pumps: The purpose of these pumps was to put water back where it is supposed to be -- in the sea. These were always located on the lower gun deck, or whichever deck that was the first above the ship's natural waterline. I'm guessing that to have added longer tubes to reach a higher deck would increase the length of the chain and, combined with the weight of the extra water that would be lifted, would add considerably to the already heavy load on the men working the pumps. Each type of pump had a different advantage over the other -- the chain pumps could lift large amounts of water in a short time but not under pressure, so were of little use for hosing decks or fires. The elm tree/brake pumps could deliver water under pressure and to higher decks but were considerably less efficient at drawing a large volume of water in a short time. I always try to think ahead in the build in my attempts not to have to do something that should have been done earlier - - well, I don't always succeed in that. While I was recently pleased to have finished all the internal planking in the hold, I've just had the minor inconvenience of having to cut through a couple of limber boards and strakes for the holes for the sumps of the chain pumps. These 2 cuts took the best part of 2 hours, including the repairs to a couple of the limber board and re-gluing them back in. Drills, mini saw, files and sandpaper later >> The 'metal' sumps I made from card and a little 'half-moon' piece of wood to hold them together > And a grainy photo of them painted and ready for the hull (I find it very difficult to get good photos of black or white items) > There aren't any inlet holes in these sumps as there won't be any water in the bilges of this model for the dummy pump tubes to draw up! The sumps dry fitted > And here are the dummy tubes (looking like 2 pairs of chopsticks) > These will be left oversize until I get up to working on the lower gun deck. I tapered these tubes by using the belt sander - - carefully. The octagonal shape was attempted by hand using a block sander. Here in 'test drive' mode > Next, the elm tree pump tubes . . .
  13. A week or so ago I reached a milestone in the build - - - I wouldn't really have considered it to be a milestone but it took me so much longer to complete than I had imagined it should have taken. I guess it was the 4 different thicknesses of the timbers that protracted the time I took to get the internal planking of the hold finished > I diverted to other small projects for the build during that time. In my other build there were lots of things that I didn't have to make as the model was fully planked and nothing below lower gun deck was visible, in fact only the guns were viewable on that deck. Nothing on the orlop deck or in the hold was made back then so this was my first attempt at making a barrel. I adopted a method I had seen on other builds for the basic blank for turning the barrels. This is the blank I used for the second batch of barrels > The first barrel I tried was made from a scaled down version of the above -- just big enough to make one small barrel > Although I was able to turn the blank on my lathe jig - I don't have a proper lathe, just a jig into which a drill fits, I wasn't able to hollow out the top on the lathe. I had to do that on the milling machine. The uncut dowel fits into a hole drilled in another jig I made to fit onto the mill table. > I don't move the table in the conventional way, but bring the cutter down to the barrel, move the barrel into the desired position by moving the table in/out and left/right until the cutter is where it needs to be. (These are the only movements made to the table.) I then slowly spin the barrel (with my fingers) on its dowel while the spinning cutter hollows out the top. I cut the outer ring of the hollow first (very carefully!) then carefully move the table around until all of the unwanted wood is removed > With lid > . . . and with a few bigger friends > That's 5 barrels done - - another 15 or 20 to go ?
  14. Basic parts of the frame for the lower well > For these parts I used softwood as my supply of beech is running low and right now with the Covid 19 lockdown there are no timber suppliers open and who knows when things will be anywhere near 'normal' again. I have a little more oak than I have of beech so for the planking of the lower well I used oak. I opted to have one of the shot locker lids propped open > My first attempt at working hinges. Apart from the rudder hinges on my other build, all the other hinges (gun ports) were just dummy, static hinges. And blackened > With both lids > I've chosen to leave the aft end of the well un-planked for two reasons -- 1) When finished, the model will probably be displayed with the aft end facing a wall so the open backed well will not be seen, But - - - 2) If it is displayed with a view in from the aft end, then all the business of the mast foot and step as well as the pump tubes will be visible. A 'test drive' in its position in the hold > Then, it's back in a 'safe box' until time to be permanently fitted.
  15. Upper gun and quarterdeck clamps fitted then took some time to glue in fillers along the frame tops as well as in the areas of the gunports. All the "Xs" on the frames above, each with a line underneath, define the rough height of the frames. As I've never done this kind of build before a lot of thinking about the sequence of things has been going on. I know that before I go near the orlop a whole lot of stuff needs to be done in and around the hold although I did spend time establishing the exact positions of the gunports. (The picture above just shows their rough positions.) In my other build I established and framed all 48 gunports before any hull planking was commenced and that worked well for me, so I'm doing the same with this section. With the gun deck clamps in position I used dummy beams and deck planking to help with the gunport positioning. (I know the gun deck beams are cambered but for this exercise I just used flat 'beams'.) I used cut-outs of very badly drawn guns to mark the tops and bottoms of the gunports (I think that every post should have something to laugh at -- so here comes this one . . . ) > Yes ~ I know they look ridiculous but they served their purpose. (I hope I can make the ship's guns and carriages to look better than that!) > The side elevation of the body plan gave the fore and aft limits of the gunports. > Staying with the frame tops for now, with the exception of the foremost and the aftmost, I eventually cut off the excess parts to make it a bit easier to work inside the hull, and these athwartship pieces of plywood were also creating unwanted shadows. I left the two end frames uncut as they may prove useful at times when the section is upside down off the baseboard. The final gunport positions. . . . and a rarely seen feature on 18th century ships - - a channel for wiring beside a gunport > Some work also done on the footwaling, thick stuff and ceiling planking down in the hold >

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