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Bluto 1790

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About Bluto 1790

  • Birthday 02/17/1947

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    Edinburgh, Scotland.
  • Interests
    Model ship building; Model railways; Archery; Pedal Steel Guitar. Woodworking.

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  1. With orlop and lower gun deck clamps on I wanted to get the keelson on, but as I hope to have several lanterns lit at various places on each deck I led in the wiring for that first. Because this is going to be a longer section than 'normal' I hope to have lanterns towards the aft end as well as toward the forward end so I have led wires up through the keel (but under the keelson) near both ends. This pic shows the keelson in the clamps and the red and blue wiring at each end > . . . and after the epoxy has done its job > My plan is to conceal the wiring between the hull planking and the ceiling planking and bring the 'feed' for each level over the top of their respective deck clamps. (I hope it will all work eventually!) Limber strakes next. Before fitting these I placed each one in the mill, in the same jig I had used to mill the rebates in the keel, and ran a shallow 45 degree groove along one corner of each strake to make it easier for the limber board to locate better. It's not very clear what's happening in the photo above so this might make it a bit clearer > Then to the ship > Then the outer limber strakes > The first of the limber boards > With its neighbour > By the time I had fitted these two boards I realised it would be a good idea to make and fit the mast step before fitting any more limber boards > Step wedges and chocks > At first, fitted the step with three chocks on each side > But that looked like too much overkill so I removed two chocks from each side > With the remaining boards and a few ceiling planks fitted.
  2. Alan, that's a very neat, and clever method of obtaining your woolding hoops! (Shavings are usually swept up for the bin!) That's a very neat bowsprit fairlead. I used that centre pin pivoting arrangement when I made mine but I used the mill -- I'm sure it would have been more difficult doing it the way you did it.
  3. Hi Yves, thanks for your comment. I intend for the finished model to have a 'stump' mast as depicted in the Section drawing in the first post above, so the final size should be around :- Length = 13.4" 340mm Width = 11.6" 294mm Height = 11.6" 294mm After my previous build at 1:80 it's good to be able to stretch myself a bit with a section at almost twice the scale!
  4. The keel and keelson have slipped past here pretty much without mention, so I should do that now. They're both cut from the same piece of mahogany as was the false keel. I already mentioned the cutting of the rebates in the keel. I should here mention the frames, as my frames do not have a cut-out/mortice that fits over the keel because I do not have any drawings of the frames. I merely created the frames using as a guide the only image I have of Leopard's frames that appears on the section drawing. Here's the floor timber area of that drawing > Since I made all the frames with floors like that, I decided to make large mortices in the keel and keelson so that the frames would have a secure place to live. The keel and keelson were clamped together and taken to the mill where the mortices were cut > Since I had dry fitted the frames onto the keel it was time to do it for real. First frame > Over three days the one frame became nine > First look along the outside of these frames shows that some fairing will be required but probably not as much as I was expecting. My main concern for the frames at this point was to get them stabilised somehow. My first inclination was to glue in fillers between the frame tops. The exact tops of the frames haven't yet been established so I decided that I'd try to get some of the deck clamps in place. My earlier "invention" for centralising the frame tops proved useful in helping to transfer the marks for the various deck clamp levels onto the frames. The levels for the orlop clamps were the first > First mistake! I carefully measured the level(s) of the orlop deck heights fore and aft as there is around a 4mm difference between the two, transferred these measurements to the frames at four locations and glued and clamped the first deck clamp to the marks. While waiting for the glue to dry and measuring for the lower deck levels, I realised that I had glued the clamp at the level of the deck it was meant to support instead of the level at the underside of the deck beam. That epoxy resin is good! That first mis-placed clamp did not want to come off --- it had to be drilled through at each end and carefully prised off the other seven frames. New clamp made and duly attached at the correct position -- lesson learned! I previously mentioned that some joints had failed on a couple of frames before fitting to the keel. When sanding some of the frames (on the keel) another frame joint failed > My "T N P" glue fixed that > (For explanation of "T N P" glue see my previous post!)
  5. In three days I've been able to make the blanks of all nine frames. Each frame required 13 pieces to be cut and laminated in two layers then glued together. I used beech on one side of the lamination and plywood on the other side. After their visit to the bandsaw each frame was lightly sanded to get rid of most of the bandsaw marks, then as they're rather fragile I glued on a stabilising piece of plywood along their tops. A frame finds a safe place while the glue sets > Each frame was placed directly onto an uncut copy of the body plan in order to establish the centreline on the floor timber at the keel as well as on the stabilising piece at the top > Then there were nine > Building a framing jig is something I've never done . . . don't know how to . . . and have no plans or instructions, so that wasn't going to happen. Another means of keeping the build square and true was needed. After considerable time spent thinking about this I decided on these > An explanation may be required here. I'll try. These two "things" are mirror images of each other and each have two vertical pieces of ply that in turn present a 90 degree angle to the melamine base. Hopefully the 2 following photos may make it clearer > This next photo shows the two 'jigs' on the baseboard along with one of the frames > These two jigs ensure that the frame is perpendicular to the base in a fore to aft direction. To ensure that the top of the frame is definitely centralised across the keel I made this (the holes mean nothing - they were there before I used the board) > This piece of board has a factory cut perfect right angle corner - - the notch cut out at the bottom corner is to allow the board to be placed against the keel and is shown in the following > And (in theory) works like this > I used these 3 jigs with each frame in turn to establish their position on the keel and drilled a 3mm hole for a 3mm bamboo skewer 'dowel' to assist with the final gluing of the frames onto the keel > I wanted to see how the frames might look on the keel so dry fitted them all onto the keel and placed a dowel down through each one. I was a little surprised that just a dry dowel held the frames in a fairly stable position > That's quite encouraging for the actual glue-up. . . . and on the subject of glue-ups - - - I started gluing the frames with PVA glue and fairly quickly a few of the joints failed. I've had the occasional failure with that PVA previously so I had to re-do these failed joints. Having lost faith in the PVA I opted to use what I call my T.N.P. glue ---"Take No Prisoners" glue, otherwise known in the civilised world as "Epoxy Resin". No more failures with the epoxy!
  6. Sawdust made. Previously I had prepared a baseboard. I had considered using MDF but I had a perfect leftover size of white melamine board. It's very stable and flat and being white, is easy to draw reference lines on. Here with the centreline and 3 of the 9 frames drawn on. First sawdust came from the preparation of the keel and keelson. Cut the rebate/rabbet on the milling machine using this jig > I didn't use the machine in the usual way by using the travelling table but kept the table still and moved the workpiece (the keel) along the jig under the spinning cutter. The uncut length of the keel but with the rebate cut > . . . and 'dry placed' on the board to enable me to accurately position the screw-down locating 'lugs' > Next sawdust came from my first attempt at making a blank for my first ever frame. Each of the paper copies of the body plan were cut out at the appropriate lines for each individual frame. (At that stage only the outside of the frame is defined.) This is the cut-out copy for frame #11 (the keel is left on just for reference purposes.) > After cutting out, the copy is reversed and placed over, and attached by masking tape to the laminated blank for the frame. At this point I have to draw, freehand, the inside face of the frame > Then it is to the bandsaw to cut out the frame. Note to anyone who may consider this method in the future -- because I opted not to glue the paper copy onto the frame blank but used masking tape to do so, the inner face MUST be cut first. Cutting the outer face first would release the paper copy from the frame and the line of the inner face will be no more! (More freehand drawing would be required.) A light sanding of the inner and outer faces to remove most of the bandsaw marks. I expect to be doing more sanding of all the frames once set into the keel before any planking begins. In order to hold the keel onto the baseboard during construction I used these brass threaded inserts > They hold the keel very securely onto the baseboard and I hope to use them to hold the model onto its permanent mounting when finished >
  7. As the building of my other model, H.M.S. Leopard at 1:80 took the best part of 9 years, I didn't want to take on another full-on model of a complete ship. So, since I have basic drawings/plans of Leopard I'm going to have a try at a cross section. As a section will require a lot less space for the finished item I wanted to exploit that and have increased the scale considerably. . . . and to explain about the unusual scale of 1:44 - - - I had planned to have the previous drawings at 1:80 doubled and asked for that at the copy shop. The enlarged copies didn't quite come out at twice the size. At the widest point on the body plan the moulded breadth measures exactly 11 inches. Compared to the 'real width' of the actual ship at 39 feet 10 inches that works out at 1:43.45 --- so, its official model scale will be called "1:44". Okay, that's that out of the way. As for the actual parts of the drawings and plans that I will need, some modifications have to be made before I can even think about creating more sawdust in my hut. When I built my previous Leopard it was P.o.B. so the body plan was sufficient for creating the bulkheads but I have to modify that plan for creating frames. All I have is this >>> and one copy of a section at mid-ship >>> I will need more than the 'half frames' that are available on the body plan, so, I had the image flipped horizontally and made a few copies >>> I then cut two of the flipped copies down the centre line and pasted them onto 'right-way-round' copies and ended up with these >>> These two copies above were the ones that came back from the copy shop at almost twice their original size. (I had 12 copies of the aft frame plan and 6 of the forward frame plans copied.) The section drawing above is reasonably adequate as a rough guide to the basic shape of the mid-ship frame but I will have to make use of the body plan for the nine frames I intend to make. It won't be a fully-framed section but instead the frames will equate to the positions of the bulkheads 13 to (B) shown in the plan below >>> It will be a little longer than most sections I have seen as I want it to extend from just ahead of the companionway forward of the main mast back to the two capstans. As a section at this scale would have a full height mainmast at around 1.6 metres (over 5 feet) I intend just to display with a 'stump' of a main mast as shown in the section drawing. (second image in this post.) This project is requiring a lot more advance planning than did my previous build before the sawdust stage so hopefully I'll have formulated a definite route to go by the next post. (I have ideas -- just have to test them!)
  8. You're on your way now, Tom! You're into the final stages now. Just a couple of questions: What did you use for belaying pins? They look very much in scale, unlike the ones I purchased which I had to try to 'whittle down' to get them to look more in scale. What did you use to maintain a uniform distance between the lower deadeyes and the upper deadeyes (at the channel)? (and I notice that you've added an extra couple of fore & aft pinrails on the Q/deck ~~ you'll need them as you're having sails on the ship!)
  9. Hi Tom, I was beginning to get worried about you! . . . but I see you've been busy! That's a whole lot of lines you have hanging there on the foremast. I'm glad you've labelled them! I can't quite do an accurate count of the belaying points you have around the foredeck but it looks like it must be at least 50? I see a few cleats on the foremast and a few pins on the aft guard rail on the fore top. Pins/cleats are like clamps -- you can never have too many! Are you planning on having sails on the ship? If so, I think you're well catered for in the way of belaying points. I hope you remembered to hang a block under the rear of the main and fore tops to catch the truss pendants' nave lines. Everything's looking great.
  10. Hello Tom, I've just been having a look over your buildlog, and although I've looked through it before, I somehow missed something that I've just noticed - - - and, being a nosey guy, I just have to ask you :- In the first page of your log you posted a few pics of a plan drawing of the frames you used in the hull. Here are a couple of the photos > Where did you get that drawing of the frames? Did you draft it yourself? . . . and if you did, where did you get the information from? (I'm not really a nosey guy -- I just need to know stuff!)
  11. Hello Mark, Thank you for your comments and helpful info. I'm not sure IF I'll actually go for a cross section but it would be a bit into the future. I've only ever built one ship model and learned a lot along the way. If I do go ahead with the cross section it will be at a larger scale than my Leopard and while I'll want to build it as well and as accurately as possible I won't stress too much if it's not up to museum standard (which it won't be!).
  12. Tom, that's a great collection of masts/spars you've got there. As it's now about 20 hours since you made the above post, I expect you've now got all the lowers fitted and secured with their shrouds and the ratlines tied?
  13. Hi Mark, I do have the Rif Winfield book - - I used it and its plans to build my Leopard. I must confess though that I didn't make much use of the drawing you refer to above as my model is a P. o. B. fully planked so I didn't include any internal details on the orlop deck as none of it would be visible. I assume you're referring to the following drawing where (I think) I've highlighted the 5 midships riders? >>> Also, while I await the arrival of the book I've ordered, I'm trying to get an understanding of how the riders were configured. I've re-posted your mid frame drawing and if I understand what I'm seeing, the riders look to be in 5 sections -- from just under lower deck level on port right down, over the keel and 'back up' to just under lower deck on starboard side? I've attempted to identify them and indicate their extent and how they 'overlap' each other in green, red and blue. Have I correctly identified them?
  14. Druxey, Mark and Allan, thanks for the comments. Mark, I assume the section plan you posted above is a view looking aft so that starboard will be on the Left-hand side? My section plan in the opening post IS looking aft so is it standard practice to show these kind of views always looking aft? I have ordered a copy of 'Anatomy Of Nelson's Ships' from Abebooks. (There were a few copies on their site that were reasonably priced -- and there were a few that were unreasonably priced ! )
  15. Hello Allan, thanks for your response. I've had a look at the link you posted and, as seems to be common with so many of these very old drawings, it's very faint and difficult to see things clearly. So I brightened the image to try to make it clearer - - - but I'm still not sure how to positively identify the riders from the image. I've reproduced it below and have inserted my own numbering 'system' hoping you (or anyone) can indicate the points at which the riders are located. (It looks to me that there may be two at points 2 and 3 [abaft the mizzen mast step] on the drawing --- but I'm not at all sure ???) <<< and even if that's correct, where is the third one ??? The area I'm considering for a cross-section is from around number 7 (to include the aftmost capstans) to number 15 (to include the companionway from the main deck down to the upper deck), so if there are any riders in that section it would be good to know!

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