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Bluto 1790

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About Bluto 1790

  • Birthday 02/17/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Edinburgh, Scotland.
  • Interests
    Model ship building; Model railways; Archery; Pedal Steel Guitar. Woodworking.

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  1. Hello Tom, I've just been having a look over your buildlog, and although I've looked through it before, I somehow missed something that I've just noticed - - - and, being a nosey guy, I just have to ask you :- In the first page of your log you posted a few pics of a plan drawing of the frames you used in the hull. Here are a couple of the photos > Where did you get that drawing of the frames? Did you draft it yourself? . . . and if you did, where did you get the information from? (I'm not really a nosey guy -- I just need to know stuff!)
  2. Hello Mark, Thank you for your comments and helpful info. I'm not sure IF I'll actually go for a cross section but it would be a bit into the future. I've only ever built one ship model and learned a lot along the way. If I do go ahead with the cross section it will be at a larger scale than my Leopard and while I'll want to build it as well and as accurately as possible I won't stress too much if it's not up to museum standard (which it won't be!).
  3. Tom, that's a great collection of masts/spars you've got there. As it's now about 20 hours since you made the above post, I expect you've now got all the lowers fitted and secured with their shrouds and the ratlines tied?
  4. Hi Mark, I do have the Rif Winfield book - - I used it and its plans to build my Leopard. I must confess though that I didn't make much use of the drawing you refer to above as my model is a P. o. B. fully planked so I didn't include any internal details on the orlop deck as none of it would be visible. I assume you're referring to the following drawing where (I think) I've highlighted the 5 midships riders? >>> Also, while I await the arrival of the book I've ordered, I'm trying to get an understanding of how the riders were configured. I've re-posted your mid frame drawing and if I understand what I'm seeing, the riders look to be in 5 sections -- from just under lower deck level on port right down, over the keel and 'back up' to just under lower deck on starboard side? I've attempted to identify them and indicate their extent and how they 'overlap' each other in green, red and blue. Have I correctly identified them?
  5. Druxey, Mark and Allan, thanks for the comments. Mark, I assume the section plan you posted above is a view looking aft so that starboard will be on the Left-hand side? My section plan in the opening post IS looking aft so is it standard practice to show these kind of views always looking aft? I have ordered a copy of 'Anatomy Of Nelson's Ships' from Abebooks. (There were a few copies on their site that were reasonably priced -- and there were a few that were unreasonably priced ! )
  6. Hello Allan, thanks for your response. I've had a look at the link you posted and, as seems to be common with so many of these very old drawings, it's very faint and difficult to see things clearly. So I brightened the image to try to make it clearer - - - but I'm still not sure how to positively identify the riders from the image. I've reproduced it below and have inserted my own numbering 'system' hoping you (or anyone) can indicate the points at which the riders are located. (It looks to me that there may be two at points 2 and 3 [abaft the mizzen mast step] on the drawing --- but I'm not at all sure ???) <<< and even if that's correct, where is the third one ??? The area I'm considering for a cross-section is from around number 7 (to include the aftmost capstans) to number 15 (to include the companionway from the main deck down to the upper deck), so if there are any riders in that section it would be good to know!
  7. In the plans/drawings (which aren't very many) I have for HMS Leopard there is only one 'mention' of riders. Here's that 'mention' >>> In none of the plans/drawings of any 50 gun ship that I've found on the internet is there any help with the number and locations of these internal hull riders. So, what I'm asking is - - what would be the number, and approximate locations of the riders? Particularly in the area of the main mast? I'm considering doing a cross-section at a future date but would need a little more detailed info than already exists on the plans.
  8. Thanks svein.erik for your comment. Just wanted to see Leopard out on the water so I played around in a very basic editing program I have. (I don't have anything proper like Photoshop.) You'll have to ignore the background above the waterline >>> And here's an RC model of Leopard under full sail out on the water >>>
  9. Thanks to GrandpaPhil, Paul and Richard for your comments and again to the others for the many likes.
  10. Thanks to Chris (Watton), Chris (Coyle), Tom, Mark, Christian, Paul and Denis for the comments and the others for the likes. Paul, I got the case at a place on the south coast just near Brighton. The company is called Striking Displays. This link will take you directly to their custom/bespoke page where you can input the dimensions of the case you want and you'll get an instant price (not including VAT.) https://www.strikingdisplays.co.uk/display-cases/custom-display-cases/custom-sized-display-case.html#DETAILS If it's for your Frigate 'Sirius' at a scale of 1:48 that would be a much bigger case than I got and I don't know if they have a maximum size at which they limit their cases - but it won't hurt to try. It costs over £60 for delivery as it comes on a pallet in a truck but you may be close enough to collect it yourself (if it would fit in your vehicle!). Denis ~ as far as I was able, I was following Peterssen's rigging guide and that shows the mizzen topsail and topgallant braces running to the taffrail. I felt that was going to be a bit busy there so I ran them as shown in one of my previous posts. The mizzen crossjack braces are run to the pinrails on each side of the Q/deck via blocks on the aftmost mainmast shrouds.
  11. Just over nine years and it's now finished ~ well, I still have to make the boats, but for her own safety, Leopard will be going in her case as it will take some time to figure how on earth I'm even going to make a start on the boats. A couple of months back I took some time out to fashion a base and supports for the ship. Here's the base with two pedestals > Last year my neighbour was renewing her kitchen and was throwing out her 'old' cabinets and doors. The doors were solid oak ~ not just the frames, but the raised panels as well. Throwing out OAK - - - that should be a criminal offence!!! (With her permission) I saved the lot and have made a few projects and also still have several of the doors 'in reserve'. The oak board in the photo above was made from that saved timber as were the two turned pedestals. The pedestals alone won't support the ship as there is no provision inside the keel to make the ship vertically secure, so there is a central 'cradle' (also made from the oak) that will keep the ship on 'an even keel'. >>> e I routed a rebate (American - rabbet) all round the base so that the acrylic case will be 'anchored' and won't be able to slide around. The case has been the most expensive single item in relation to the entire build. I had considered obtaining acrylic sheets and making my own case but the amount of work involved in making a wooden frame guided me to the easier route of purchasing a commercially made item. I also got a commercially engraved brass plaque >>> (The brass plate is mounted on oak from my neighbour's kitchen!} And now, Leopard finds refuge away from the danger of a clumsy ship builder's hands and elbows as well as from the exploring hands of his grandchildren! Although I stated that it's been over nine years in the making, it's probably closer to six years as there have been a few considerably long lay-off periods.
  12. Hi Matrim, I can't really compare this scale with anything else as this is the first build I've done (I've never even built a ship from a kit before,) but at times it certainly was a bit fiddly ~ especially areas like the stern quarters. The plans that came with the book were at 1:96 but I felt that was going to be too tight for me and as much as I would have preferred a scale of 1:64 or bigger, display space would have been a problem so I struck a 'mid-way' compromise of 1:80. As it is, at this scale, it now measures (overall length) 960mm X 760mm (keel to truck). The case I ordered is 1020mm long by 810mm high.
  13. Hi Paul, Yes, I was aware of the dates and the correct flag for 1790, but I kind of argued with myself that as the ship survived until 1814 then either flag would probably have been OK ! (at least within the right time period.) (The correct 1790 flag would have been easier as I wouldn't have had to have it flipped and it couldn't have been displayed upside down either ) I'm sure there are (in fact I KNOW there are!) a few more "slightly less than accurate" features on the ship so I'm not unduly worried about the flag!
  14. Small tasks are now almost done. Stern lanterns: My first attempts at this project involved trying to solder pieces of 0.5mm brass wire into window frames for the lanterns but that venture was pretty dismal. I then had a go at whittling an 8mm dowel down into an 8 sided shape tapering down to about 5mm at the 'thin end' and ended up with this >>> I didn't like the white painted "glass" and hoped to be able to get a more transparent look. I bought an 8mm clear Perspex rod and used a chisel to whittle it down to a tapering hexagon shape and decided to go with that. (These brutal close-ups make everything appear much worse than they are in reality! Even the unused section of rod in the photo below, despite being perfectly crystal clear, looks second hand here.) >>> And on the ship >>> The window 'frames' are black paper cut into strips of 0.5mm widths. I almost forgot the bowsprit Jack. I had an image of a Jack in my gallery and used a free website to flip the image horizontally and both images are seen in the pic below >>> I printed them, cut them out, glued them back to back and crinkled them to resemble a fluttering shape >>>

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