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About bizibilder

  • Birthday August 28

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    Norfolk UK
  • Interests
    Model Ships, Clockmaking, Astronomy, Astrophotography

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  1. Just find something with a thickness about half the diameter of the dowel (Wood, metal, card or plastic will do). Place it on a bench with the end of the dowel against it. Draw a line across the end of the dowel using the guide. Repeat, rotating the dowel about a third of a turn each time (no need to be too accurate). You will have three lines drawn on the end of the dowel either marking the centre (if your guide was exactly half the diameter) or a small triangle that will allow you to estimate the centre quite easily and accurately enough for model work. No need for special tools!
  2. AS I recall (It was quite a few years ago!) I simply washed the brass decoration in washing up liquid and dried it then painted it with Gold enamel - all over. it was stuck in place with a tiny dab of 5 minute epoxy. I seem to remember I did a side at a time in one "go" after making sure that everything was prepared and checked for fit. Some of the decoration was thinned down by filing before fitting as I seem to remember some pieces were quite thick. The "curved" pieces at the stern were simply filed to fit on the back as bending the castings was unlikely to be successful. I believe the current version of the kit has some of the decoration in laser cut timber rather than brass castings/ etchings but someone else would have to confirm that for you.
  3. Decks are glued and the marks are (roughly) where the top of the first plank will be - these need to be checked and remarked before any glue is applied! Please PM if you need anything.
  4. It really doesn't matter which you use. The major difference between HSS and carbon steel as far as we are concerned is that carbon steel can, if heated sufficiently, lose its sharp edge and can revert to its original "soft" state. However it would have to be taken to "blue" at around 300°C for this to happen. HSS can be run red hot and will still hold its edge. It is unlikely that in modelling - even with our small power tools - we would manage that unless we really abused our tools. If you are burning the timber with a drill bit something is wrong and you may well be in a situation where carbon steel tools would be damaged. Properly hardened and tempered carbon steel is actually harder than HSS - unless allowed to heat up and therefore become soft again. In the US carbon steel suitable for toolmaking is sold as "drill rod" and in the UK it is known as "silver steel". It is worth noting that carbon steel tools will probably be much cheaper than the equivalent HSS.
  5. A little more progress - Glueing the underdecks into place. First a check with the masts shows them to be true and parallel - Then lots of rubber bands! having the hull blocked in really pays as you can do this quite easily. Hopefully I can start the first planking soon.
  6. And the ships boat (hopefully more or less in order):

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