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MartinJ

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  1. MartinJ
    Here is the way I thread the lanyards: I build a jig (see below). It needs to be tight to the deadeye, or you can use a very thin shim to hold it in place. Once the threading is done, I paint the lanyards and the deadeyes with a clear matte varnish or diluted white glue. Thus everything stays in place and ready to mount on the channels and on the shrouds.
  2. MartinJ
    The plans for Mantua's Albatros shows the same back stay configuration as the Harvey plans. The plans for the old Model Shipways Dapper Dan shows the same configuration, but then adds another running stay as well. It has double blocks, the lower one fastened to the channel next to a smaller deadeye configuration which is positioned just aft of the fourth shroud. Then the plans from Conway Maritime Press for the Enterprize, a merchant schooner of 1830, shows the running double block tackle replacing the fifth back stay set on the channel. So it appears from this small sample that "anything goes". Your choice.
  3. MartinJ
    Don't forget the wire fly tiers use as well. It comes in diameters from 0.0045"(37 gauge) to 0.0135"(28 gauge) and a variety of colors. 100 yards per spool for $1.65 ea. at J.Stockard (jsflyfishing.com). They also have a full range of threads of silk, polyester and nylon as well as vises in all price ranges, hackle pliers, bobbins, etc. BTY: you can get a vice there for $7.00! And no, I don't get any compensation for touting them.
  4. MartinJ
    Hi, Mark. I, am also bashing the Harvey. I've eliminated the outhouses and made the ship a 10-gun privateer named Rebecca after my daughter. I also planked her hull with cherry and added treenails. Upon looking at your build log, I've decided to modify my windlass to resemble yours. I don't thing I'll install the barrels, though. But I see you haven't posted anything since last May. Just when it was getting interesting. I'm finishing my masts and spars now and have to make some decisions about rigging and whether or not to attempt sails. Are you planning to, or have you already bent sails to the yards and gaffs? If, so, are they furled or let fly? And if your spars are bare, what have you done with the bowlines and leech lines, or have you left them off? Martin
  5. MartinJ
    Rob: I agree with Paul V. The instructions for the larger, advanced models assume you've built at least a beginners model. Their instructions, particularly when you get to rigging, are almost non-existent. There's also the terminology of sailing ships that the advanced model instructions assume you know. I found that starting with a kit of a top-sail schooner prepared my to take on my second model, an intermediate model of the CSS Alabama. Now I'm starting the frigate, Rattlesnake.My continued modeling has presented greater and greater challenges that I was prepared for. My experience is that showing off my first beginner's model of Corel's Ranger was met by many ohs and ahs from friends and family. So I got my ego stroked, and much quicker that if I'd attempted and finally completed an advanced model. Unless you're just interested in building one model only, I'd suggest that you recognize you are a beginner and act like one. And I'm sure you'll enjoy the building as you prepare for larger challenges. Martin
  6. MartinJ
    Thanks, Dylan. So you don't coil the line on the deck? Sounds like you make coils and then glue them down so it "looks like" the line actually comes from the the tackle. I'll give that a try. Martin
  7. MartinJ
    Hello, gang I thought I had a method of coiling line for my gun rigging onto the deck, but the line just won't lay flat on the deck, or it uncoils. Any suggestions concerning procedures or jigs? MartinJ

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