jim_smits

Hot off the Camera !
 
Copious quantities of filler (just kiddin) and Phase 1 of Much Sanding later.. and we appear to have a decent hull shape! WooHoo
 
Next Up:  Phase 2 of Much Sanding.
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn
 
BTW I trimmed off the 1st planking overhangs at the stern too, though it needs to be addressed further.  And incidentally all you Ballyahoo'ers out there the issue with the 2nd Bulkhead not being 'low' enough doesn't seem to be a problem (I only beefed it up a little early on, but if you examine Plan No 1, you will see that 'issue' is there too! the Garboard strake and the next plank take care of this in that they almost go vertical in this area, just like the 'Dead Drop' at the stern)
 
Anyhoo.. Photo Time..
 

As you can see I've now completed the installation of the stern gallery. I decided to do the usually RN routine on a metal ship, and painted everything, that didn't move internally, white. There was no detail that could be added internally, due to the fact that the gallery only contains the trunk for the hoist-able propeller. Next step is to add the internal lining of the bulwarks.

Good solid bit of work last night. The keel bottom, stem and stern post have all had pinning holes made prior to bearding and rabbet work. Dremelled the bearding line and rabbet onto the false keel. Finally, attached all the bulkheads in place, ensuring square in all dimensions, using a few dabs of cyano before liberally adding gorilla wood glue to fix in place.
 
All looking good so far and the false deck fits nicely. Need to bevel the bulkheads and the stern bulkhead to the deck level.

Been a little bit busy of late, so no huge progress. In fact I have gone backwards a little bit....
 
I decided I really wasnt happy with the positioning of the futtocks on the mizzen shrouds and the tensioning in the shrouds on the top mast. Very carefully have cut the futtock taves and shrouds and have now added a couple of extra levels of ratlines and raised the level of the staves. The angles should look far better now.
 
Just need to re-tie the catharpins in place and get the right tension and then seize the futtock shrouds back in place.

Big backwards steps. After adding the deck in place, I decided I really wasnt happy with the bulkheads positioning. It looks like a couple of them were off-canter and were really throwing out the lines that would be planked and the decking lay.
 
Took drastic action and attempted to seperate off the bulkheads and try and re-glue. Unfortunately my initial contruction was far too sound and the glued joints refused to budge but a couple of the bulkheads split. Went back to JoTiKa and got a replacement ply sprue with the false keel and bulkheads. Just in the process and put it back together. I think the issue is that the bulkheads were quite loose originally so made lining up in all three dimensions difficult.
 
I have taken the time to drawing some construction lines on the bulkheads to aid getting them lined up perfectly. Shouldnt take too long to catch back up.

Brief New Photo Update:  The hull is closing up nicely, I reckon 1 or 2 more visits should complete it then checking out the gaps & lots of sanding  followed by attaching Keel/Bow & cutting the Rabbet.
 
The photo pointed out to me a slight rise/lift in the 2nd last plank on the bottom section of the photo between 'visible' bulkheads 3 & 4 which has been dealt with.
 
Incidentally, I was unable to pick up any of that glue we were discussing so I shall just have to go online.
 
Thanks for checking in.
 
Eamonn
 

Photo Update as Promised:
 
3 more planks each side went on this morning for a grand total of 6 a side, remember I'm not overly concerned over their appearance as this is only 1st planking and my aim is to get them on relatively neatly so as to give a good base for 2nd planking.
They are cut over length, and will be trimmed/sanded down later. I most likely will nail them in place also, particularly at the bow/stern areas as the last think I want is for them to 'spring' later.
 
Thanks For Checking In..
 
Eamonn
 
Oh and Dee Dee, if you are reading this I ordered those books from Abebooks this morning, Thanks again for the tip as I reckon I got them all for the price of 2 with Amazon! Thanks also to Kester & Nigel for putting me onto them to begin with!   E
 
 

Ok then, we have the Bulwarks glued in place, No End of 'Faff' involved there as plans say to be sure that it reaches the top of all bulkhead 'Horns' well that aint gonna happen as said horns vary in height somewhat! also if you keep the tops all level (Bulwark & Bulkhead Horns) then you are unlikely to meet the top of the transom, so I had to 'interpret' it a bit by keeping Transom /Bulwarks Level, some of the midships B/Heads Level and the Fore Most B/H level.  Later when I do the Sherbourne this will have to be done exactly as the Cannons won't fit if the Bulwarks are misplaced! but on the Ballahoo it shouldn't be a problem as there is no ordinance towards the stern (Oh Oh! those famous last words again.. :mellow: )
I'll cut out the Capping Rails tomorrow to make sure the Lines of the Bulwark are ok in relation to it, so there is no guarantee that they are in their final position!!
 
Below is a quick photo of todays work..
 
Bye For Now.
 
Eamonn
 

Newsflash....
 
- Bulkheads and Filler Blocks are now all bevelled/shaped .
- Stern Counter Frames are gluing as we speak.
- False Deck has been dry fitted & sanded flush with the edges of the bulwarks.
- Stern Counter & Stern Facia removed from their 'matrix' and sanded, I removed the Stern Counter early to help the 4 X Counter Frames in line as they glued.
- Bulwarks are soaking in water prior to being gently shaped around a 'straight sided' mug. Thanks Jim for that tip, see his Ballahoo build to see what I mean  at 'HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits'.
 
Here are a few photos of the Shaped Bulkheads and Blocks, compere them to the shots from yesterday above to see the difference.
 
Thanks for checking in
 
Bye for Now
 
Eamonn
 
 
 
 

Fantastic looking work Jason.
 
Can't quite tell by looking at the pictures but did you cross the shroud line above the deadeye and knot together or did you simply siexe the two ends side by side?
 
I crossed all of mine, and I can tell you it was really difficult to keep the deadeye in position and secure the shroud in place with it crossed.....

Thanks for the image DFellingham.
 
I had a rummage through Lever, and did a little experimentation. I found in the end I prefered the crossed catharpin, even if it might not be the most accurate method, it seemed to work the best in securing the futtocks at the main top mast.
 
Moved onto ratlines on the mizzen top mast. These are surprisingly difficult due to the shrouds being thinner in this area. The issues of twisting the shroud are more evident as I tighten the clove hitches.
 
Finally, I have made a stab at the first back stay on the fore top mast. Got all the rigging together and hooked into the channel ok. The blocks and the rigging of the stay seem to press against the deadeyes and lanyards a touch. Is it correct that the back stay would be 'outside' of the shrouds down to the channel, with the loose end of the rigging crossing under the last ratline in order to be belayed?

Looking good Eamonn. I might have to go back to my Ballahoo soon as you'll ovetake me very shortly....!

Excellent progress today!
 
Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!

Coppering has now been fully replaced and the hull looks so much better now. The new plates don't actually stand out that much from the old plates so I will let them be and see how they look in a couple of weeks.
 
Now working on re-rigging the shrouds. I had two chainplates snap on the starboard main channel, and all five went on the port channel that was torn off the hull. The easiest way to replace these has been to use 0.75mm black thread in place of the deadeye strop, and tie a double knot to the deadeye to simulate the strop.The loose ends are then fed through the channel and tied to the chain plates. I have had to replace these as well as they were bent out of shape.
 
Used a little jig to create new chains from 0.5mm brass wire by looping several turns round two nails and then clipping down the side of one length.

Channel has been re-pinned and glued back in place.
 
I am now replacing the copper tiles along the keel bottom and at the stem. Port side is almost complete.
 
Time to sign off for the new year. See you all in 2014!

The keel is now back on, glued and pinned in several places. A very small amount of filler to smooth the edges and then onto re-applying the copper tiles.

Main shrouds
 
Some "notes to self", managed to get a process going for doing the shrouds in a way that felt comfortable, details below and results.  Apologize for the quality of the photos, for some reason these just seem off today.
 
Hope someone can help with a list of questions:
Instructions indicate that the futtock stave should be made with 1mm brass wire.  What would this have been made of on actual ship, would it have had rope wrapped around it like serving or puddening? Would people advise to attach the futtock stave before doing ratlines - seems that it might hold the shrouds a little more in place What dictated whether stretchers were attached (or not), and would these have been attached 'permanently', in as much as anything would be permanent. Would catharpins have been so attached so as to deflect the shrouds inwards at the futtock staves, or would the line of the shrouds be maintained? Any insights much appreciated!
 
Shroud pulled at taught as possible around deadeye, twin spacers being used to keep it steady.  (End that will be trimmed passed up through the tops temporarily)

 
Overhand knot tied at back and front of shroud a close as possible to the deadeyes.  

 
Overhand knots then alternated working downward to close up the hole, no more than 3-4 typically required.  Last know secured with G-S Hypo cement and ends trimmed.  Found using some tweezers made this easier to manipulate as the shroud can be controlled much easier.

 
End trimmed and then end and middle seizing tied using same method as described above

 
There's something very pleasing about a stack of shrouds!  The fore-most shrouds are served to protect against wear from the sails, this allowed me to establish a new personal best for longest length served (268mm).  I've found it helpful while serving to keep compacting the serving line even if it doesn't appear to need it, it seems to give a more consistent result although I've still not perfected this technique.

 
Despite best attempts, I just could get the line of the serving to be straight across the shrouds.  I'm guessing that this would have not always been perfect on real ships either despite the pictures in books.  At least thats my story/excuse.

 
Main shrouds in place, I'll leave in place for now and do a final tightening once all shrouds in place.

Just some photos of the latest additions (to go with my Post No. 32 above).. All the Bulkheads are glued in position, the deck is only 'dry-fitted' to assist in aligning the B/Heads.
 
In the Stern on shot, you may just be able to make out the 'thinning' of the Keel where the Stern Post will go to assist later planking (it is the beginnings of the Rabbet) but following great advice I haven't extended the Rabbet forward, this won't be done until 2nd planking (Thanks again to all those who are helping me along, it is much appreciated!)
 
Sláinte,
 
Eamonn
 
 

Coppering has now been fully replaced and the hull looks so much better now. The new plates don't actually stand out that much from the old plates so I will let them be and see how they look in a couple of weeks.
 
Now working on re-rigging the shrouds. I had two chainplates snap on the starboard main channel, and all five went on the port channel that was torn off the hull. The easiest way to replace these has been to use 0.75mm black thread in place of the deadeye strop, and tie a double knot to the deadeye to simulate the strop.The loose ends are then fed through the channel and tied to the chain plates. I have had to replace these as well as they were bent out of shape.
 
Used a little jig to create new chains from 0.5mm brass wire by looping several turns round two nails and then clipping down the side of one length.

Jim, I 'believe' that the foremost shroud was never catharpined, and that similarly any that chafed the mast would also have been excluded.  Does that just leave you with one?  I haven't quite got that far to assess on mine.  Another option would be to go with the infamous cross catharpins.

Welcome on board Eamonn!

Hi All,
 
This is my first proper wooden boat build, I say proper because some time ago I began building the Bounty from those magazines that came every week (you may be familiar with them) and though she turned out reasonable enough (I'm about 80% complete, just the Rigging to finish) the instructions (there was no 'plan', just text with photos) left a lot to be desired and makes even the simplest task awkward.
Last Summer I came across MSW and having read and followed many build logs I decided to buy a proper kit, in fact I bought 3 over the past few months! Sherbourne, Convulsion & Ballahoo all at 1:64 and all Smallish Vessels (This is just a personal preference)
Anyhoo, I have decided to do Ballahoo first, and possibly stagger the others over the coming months.
(The first time I opened the box and was hit by that pleasant wood smell, reminded me of those old wooden pencil cases from school   Oh! and it was great to unfold 'actual' plans too!)
 
Right lets begin..
 
Whilst the Keel and Bulkheads were still in their 'Matrix' (or whatever the wooden surround is called) I oriented the Matrix to the appropriate instruction sheet (in the Booklet) and numbered each piece, as some of those bulkheads may end up in the wrong slots on the Plywood Keel (am sure it would be easy to spot, but why take the chance)
I then removed the Ply Keel and all the Bulkheads using a Jewellers Saw (tried using a craft knife but ended up having to apply pressure, which didn't sound like a great idea) All items once freed got a light sanding and were then 'Dry' Fitted (see Photos) So Far So Good..
 
I shall cut a Rabbet and Bearding Line etc (as per Jim Smits and his Ballahoo) though the Plans/Instructions do not call for them, it seems logical when you take the Ply Keel dimensions and 2 layers of Planks into consideration.
 
Should anyone wish to offer advice, please feel free to do so.. it all helps and I would be very grateful.
 
Take Care
 
Eamonn
 

Hi,
 
I cut the bearding and rabbet down to the middle layer of the Ply. So, approx 1mm on each side leaving 2mm in the middle.
 
Take make the keel more secure I drilled holes to pin the keel before I cut the rabbet line.
 
Hope that helps.....

Got my replacement parts from JoTiKa today. Great service from them as I only spoke to them on Thursday.
 

 
Next step for the build is to gradually shape the bulwarks. Using a mug and large clips at the moment. Once they are roughly the correct shape I will bend to the bulkheads on the ship.
 

They look fantastic Jason. Really struggled with the mouse on my stays and this has made it look simple.
 
Bet you're looking forward to ratlines now.....!