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Bill Tuttle

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Everything posted by Bill Tuttle

  1. Druxey, I am also interested in a set of these. Could you send me the e-mail address. Thanks, Bill
  2. Ed, Thanks for the additional clarification on the parcelling. After I submitted the post I looked at it again and saw that it was only on the serving and then I remembered why I did not continue with my efforts to parcel shrouds. It would add too much diameter. I guess if you were really obsessive about it you could worm with some silk thread of the proper diameter and serve. Would be a job that would take an incredible amount of effort with very little return. Nevertheless, I will employ your idea on the servings where noticeable in the future. The construction of this model is "beyond belief" and I will be following this build closely.
  3. Great job , Ed. I have always been disturbed by the ridges left in larger rigging line after seizing but this is the first time I have seen a modelmaker add the parcelling. Does a beautiful job and worth every second of the time it took. Your work never ceases to amaze me.
  4. Beautiful work as usual, Michael. You never cease to amaze me. I agree with Mark, you need to come out of Retirement and start a tool company.
  5. Delta King, Welcome! I have been scratch building the Kate Cory for more years now than I would like to admit. I am presently in the running rigging so keep me in mind, if you have any problems I might be able to help you out. I assume this is a Model Shipways kit. The instructions are pretty good and Erik Ronnberg has done a set of plans and booklet that would be very helpful and is extremely detailed but I don't think it is still available unless it shows up used somewhere. Good Luck and let me know if I can help you.
  6. Keith,

     

    You have done such a great job on your mods to your Brynes Saw that I am interested in your thoughts on a modification I would like to make.  I have the Brynes high fence and bought an extra to add a sacrificial wood higher fence to .  I am about to drill this out and tap it to accept the height extension but thinking further ahead I would like to add a slot or some other means to employ hold downs.  Maybe some form of "T" slot.  Have you given this any thought?  

     

    Thanks,

    Bill

    1. KeithAug

      KeithAug

      Dear Bill

       

      Once or twice over the last year I have wanted to mill a slot in the end of a longer piece of wood. Here a higher fence might have helped but I managed by clamping the plank to a square block of wood to keep the plank square to the table. Because I don't find much need for a higher fence I haven't given much thought to fence modifications.   However I would be interested to know how you get on as   its always good to see other good ideas.

       

      Keith

    2. Bill Tuttle

      Bill Tuttle

      Keith,

       

      Thanks for the quick reply, will let you know if I make any progress.

       

      Bill

  7. I also have the Preac Saw as well as the Jim Saw and find it very useful when needing two different width blades for the same project, for instance, sawing wood for block construction and adding the strop slot as well as the sheave slot. Much easier than changing blades frequently. I have a Saw Stop for the big stuff, wouldn't take anything for any of these saws and I am constantly thankful that I did not part with my Preac. It seems they very rarely show up on E-Bay.
  8. Mark,

     

    Just looked at the picture of your "Jim" saw in your reply to Thistle.  How did you attach the high piece of aluminum to your fence?  I purchased an extra fence to add a sacrificial wooden fence to give me more height as well as protection to my fence if I get to close.  I have always done this on my big Saw Stop to prevent fence damage but there are a lot of other means to handle this on a full size saw.  

     

    I thought about using screws and just tapping threads in the fence but I can't seem to get up my nerve to mess up a brand new fence and thought maybe you had figured another way to accomplish this.  Your thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks,

    1. mtaylor

      mtaylor

      I don't have a Jim saw but a MicroMark.  The aluminum is just clamped to the fence.   Some (Grant Dale) did do that with tapped holes and screws in the fence.  Works well.

    2. Bill Tuttle

      Bill Tuttle

      Thanks, will probably do that, I find that at my age now, I have to research and think everything through before getting the drill out.  It is detrimental and counter productive sometimes but I have made too many mistakes before.  Thanks for the reply.

  9. I also purchased one of these from Michael and was unsure as to whether I would put it in the shop or just leave this beautiful example of fine machine work on my coffee table in the living room. Seriously, this is one fine piece of work and very functional. I also own the GRS soldering station that Pat pictures above as well as the single arm version mentioned. All of these are very fine tools. Michael's just has an added touch of class that you don't find in the usual manufactured tools.
  10. I bought mine on E-Bay and like everything on E-Bay sometimes they go at a very reasonable price and other times way out of range. Once you get them you will not know how you lived without them. Get a good pair, rack and pinion, I bought a pair from MicroMark years ago but I do not think they are rack and pinion. In my opinion you would be better off with a good used pair from E-Bay.
  11. Julie, Thanks for sharing the video. I was not aware these are available. Use Shapton Glass ceramic for most of my sharpening but these really look like they will do the trick. I also have some old Arkansas stones that I bought years ago that are curved which may do the job. It appears the configuration of these would handle about any shape.
  12. Julie, I like these planes but I am a fanatic about sharpening. Are you real good at sharpening these? and are there any tricks?
  13. These Knew Concepts saws are pretty expensive but worth every penny. Once your blade is positioned correctly there is very little chance of it getting loose. Excellent videos on their site for instruction.
  14. The StewMac Router base is a pretty versatile item. I have a friend of mine that is a guitar maker and does a lot of beautiful inlay work using this. It is also adaptable to the Foredom, using their handpiece, which is threaded to fit the router guide. There are a lot of router guides available out there that are superior to these but much more costly. You just need to determine how much you will use it to justify the cost.
  15. I looked for about an hour in some of my books. I have a few books on the Chesapeake Bay and their watercraft but could not find anything specific detailing the shrouds. Robert H. Burgess wrote a really good book entitled Chesapeake Sailing Craft which has a lot of good photos of working Skipjacks. I used some of these books when I was building mine back in the l970's. I did, however, find a reference to the standing rigging on the bugeye another boat tied to the Chespeake Bay and very much like the Skipjack in M. V. Brewington's Chesapeake Bay Log Canoes and Bugeyes. This states that the bugeyes were originally rigged throughout with hemp but steel wire replaced this very quickly. I have a feeling the Skipjacks were probably steel wire from the beginning. Hope this helps. I have other sources but they are at my other home. This is the best I can do tonight. Bill
  16. Ray, You will be fine to start out with the Dremel 200. But to follow up Jaager's comment you will need a speed control to vary the speed. You will understand this after beginning to use it. You can pick these up on E-Bay used. When i bought my first model about 40 years ago I had no real sources for information other than some very elementary books and wondered why I had so much trouble with the Dremel. Later I learned it was because I could not adjust the speed to match the job. You will find this speed control useful for other tools when you add another variable speed Dremel or Foredom to your tool collection. You are on the right track, let the need drive the tool purchase at first. I keep some of the useless junk I purchased in my early years around just to remind me to be careful about my future purchases.
  17. I built the H A Parks from plans, I think in the Smithsonian collection, and they were looped over the mast in the same fashion. I photographed many of these still working skipjacks all over the Eastern Shore. Ben Lankford did a nice job on this instruction booklet. Let me know if I can provide any further help.
  18. Good point, Mike. The Dumont tweezers are some of the best of the Swiss made tweezers. If they do talk a fall to the floor they can usually be repaired with a few strokes on an Arkansas sharpening stone.
  19. The Bonsai source is a great idea, will check that out. I have always found that it really pays to buy the high end Swiss made tweezers. Rather have one pair of these than six pair of the poorly made ones. I find myself always looking for the Name brand Swiss ones.
  20. I own all of these planes and I am amazed at how much I use them, not only for model work but for fine detail on cabinets and furniture construction. I am spoiled by the use of the Veritas sharpening jig. Has anyone found a simple way to get the right angle when sharpening these other that a simple block of wedged shaped wood to use as a guide. I am obsessive about sharp plane blades and use the Shapton Ceramic stones for all of my sharpening needs.
  21. Nice work, I have considered building this model in the past and will continue to follow your progress closely. I have had these plans for years. Good luck!
  22. Absolutely beautiful work and documented with excellent photography. I own these plans and will follow you through this entire build.
  23. Les, We have all made these mistakes and now fortunately we have a group to run it past before making these mistakes. I still have some crap I bought that I leave on my shelf to remind me of these errors. Don't think twice about it, just don't be afraid to ask in the future.
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