gieb8688

Well i hope everyone is staying healthy and safe these days. My little sloop has not been neglected. 
 
First, I managed to stick on the shoulder piece(?) or whatever the heavy timber that protects the bow against the anchor stock is called, as well as the after trim. 

 
Then I got around to priming the model and painting the bottom “white stuff” which I airbrushed on with a mix of Tamiya acrylics.  And finally one day I got out the oil paints and painted the hull sides and deck. 

 

 
Then, upon discovering that only oils should be painted on top of oils, I bought some oils to paint the trim and wales: 

 

 
Finally after much oxidation was allowed for, I took the Bob Ross bravery test as per Ab Hoving’s process and covered much of my model with Van Dyke Brown:
 
..and immediately set to wiping it off with a small host of paper towels and q-tips. 

 

 

 
Oh, also I painted the inner gunwales a red color I mixed. The top of the gunwales will be home to bollards and stanchions which I have yet to build, so I am leaving that part unpainted for now. 
Channels and deck fittings next, I imagine. Thoughts or revelations?
 
Meriadoc

I started to work up at the sharp end. The upper and lower cheeks supplied with the kit were a little thin and didn't quite fit onto the model. I used the drawings contained in the AOTSD to generate a 3D version which was printed out and then used as a 3D template to cut new ones out of some lime wood. The lime was a bit too soft and didn't carve that well. I wouldn't mind a do-over for these but it I fear that it is too late for that. I added the hawse bolster and filling piece using the dimensions in the AOTSD. I also resorted to the CAD to mock up the bowsprit step and manger boards. Here I added a block to help me get the correct angle for the bowsprit. This is not an authentic part but I had a peek through the gunports and it is not really visible so I can sleep easy.

 

 

 

 

 
I drew up a new profile for the gammoning knee and head timbers. I then printed this out and made up one using a combination of timber and 3D printed parts. The end result is only marginally slimmer than the kit supplied parts but I think that it is an improvement as it takes care of the exposed plywood edges. I printed out the lower rails and then used them as a template to shape some maple efforts. I mocked up the entire head structure so that I could work out the dimensions of the main rails. Once printed out these were used to construct timber ones. I kept the 3D printed part for the false rail as it proved too fiddly to make out of timber. The revised parts have a bit more definition than those supplied with the kit but are still missing some fine detail that I struggled to add.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I built the catheads from scratch out of walnut as I didn't like the laminated kit part which was also the wrong size. I carved the cathead supporter from a block of lime. I added the trailboard and gammoning bolster to fit between the cheeks. I had to increase the length of the gammoning slot as it conflicted with the position of the head timbers. I also had to rearrange the order of the small decorative animals as there was not enough room to fit the tall one (sheep?) under the gammoning slot.
 

 

 

 

 
I constructed the ekeing more or less in-situ to fit between the cathead supporter and the lower rail. The transition between these is quite clumsy but I was losing the will to live by that point. The catheads were finished off with the addition of the cathead knee, various eyebolts and a thumb cleat for the cathead stopper which was carved out of styrene.
 

 

 
The wash cants were formed out of a block of lime using a sanding drum on the dremel. These are a bit ropey but luckily they are painted black so are not that visible. Looking at the model head on you can notice some wild asymmetry happening but I can claim wabi-sabi. I will leave the gratings, seats of ease and iron horse for another day as they look quite fiddly and I need to recuperate.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Little update..
 
My 'new' garage conversion is now more or less complete. I now have a good electricity supply going into the workshop and have a good amount of sockets, so no more extensions snaking all over the floor. The final job was the insulated roller shutter doors. I took a couple of pics, but realised I took these after I just finished maintenance (cleaning) of the laser machines. In this room, the parts are produced, both laser cut sheets and castings.
 
I have also added a couple of pics on my Indy prototype progress. This is the third hull since starting, and the final designs. All beams and decks above the gun deck are just dry fitted in place, to check general fit of all of these parts, the beams especially. The upper deck and poop you see are sub decks only, and they will require planking (no pre etched decks for the final kit). But I will include the etched planking on the sub decks as shown, in case some want to use as a template. Decks can be fully planked or part open, as shown. I would suggest you don't deviate too much from these openings, however, as there are 10 guns per side on the quarter and forecastle deck..
 
Gun deck inner bulwarks have been added (all pre-cut) as well as spirketting. Most of the outer hull will be planked in the traditional manner, though.
 
It has been a lot of long hours to get to this stage, but I can relax a little once all critical structural parts are finalised - but these very early stages of the pre-prototype will give you an idea of what I am aiming for, for this kit. I will keep on building using this hull until I get to the stage, like my Sphinx 'throwaway' (which I still have...) where I know everything fits as it should, then over to Jim!

More pics: pilothouse, aft deckhouse, deck hatches.....

Some more superstructure pics.

Superstructure construction begins! Again with the multitude of photos and the variations within them it was hard to pinpoint exactly how to design the pilot house and aft cabin house. I decided to take some artistic license and combine various features that worked well with the model and construction. Lots of thought went into what steps had to be taken, such as sanding, painting, details etc. before continuing on with the next level. I used my 3D printer to make doors and windows for the cabins (more pictures later will show some detail). Not having a fittings kit available I had to scrounge around to figure out ways to do some detailing such as the hawse pipes - I found some brass plumbing inserts at the hardware store and had to flatten them in my vise, reshape them, and cut them down. More pictures coming soon!

I really like the ease of using a preformed FG hull, however, I wasn't thrilled with having a smooth surface on the hull as this was a wooden ship. After carefully planning out my planking scheme and laying it out on the hull, I began gluing balsa strips to the FG. I used epoxy for this and was only able to do a few planks at a time. I used painters tape to hold the planks in place until the epoxy cured. Obviously this took a little more than a weekend to complete!
 
When the planks were all on I used a stiff wire brush to distress the planks, giving a nice weathered look, and then applied a few coats of Verathane wood hardener which worked very well. Need lots of ventilation using that! Finally I applied a few coats of Duralux marine grade bottom paint: Sub-Trop Red Metal Primer M740. I have to say I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out!

I am really enjoying the research aspect of this project. I grew up sailing on the great lakes and always loved seeing the big freighters going by. I wish I could have seen ships from this era! Oscoda was relatively small at 175' in length and 32' beam. She was 529 gross tons. Built by Simon Langell in St. Clair Michigan in 1878 she worked mostly Lake Michigan and Lake Huron hauling lumber and timber. There were several owners over the years with Edward Hines / Hines Lumber Company of Chicago being the last owner before November of 1914 when she ran aground and sunk in a storm off Pelkie Reef in northern Lake Michigan, just off the coast of the upper peninsula of Michigan. The Oscoda was towing 2 schooner barges: A.C. Tuxbury and Alice B. Norris. They were loaded with lumber from Georgian Bay and were headed for Chicago through the Straights of Mackinac when the storm hit. No lives were lost but Oscoda found its final resting spot. The schooner barges went on to serve for many more years.
 
Here's some more pictures showing work on the main framing and decking of the single deck. I made a section between 2 hatch openings removable so I could access the motor if necessary. 
 

A project I originally started in 1993 but had to put on hold until recently. It was March of 2021 when I built my work table, dusted off the few documents I had, and began figuring out exactly how I was going to do this! I had originally purchased a 60" long fiberglass hull and this would be the foundation for the project. Many hours have been spent scouring the internet for information, stories, pictures, etc. as well as trips to local maritime museums and many subject matter books. As I have no real plans for the vessel I have relied on the photos I've found for the construction. Over the years modifications were made to the ship and as such my model may be a mix of various eras, but still maintaining accuracy. Over the past year I have made a great deal of progress but only now starting this post. I have hundreds of build pictures and will  filter a few in from time to time if anyone is interested! For now the original Oscoda and a few pics of the laying of the keel.
 
I hope you all enjoy this as much as I do!

I used acetone, 99% isopropyl alchohol and pure water as cleaning agents. I couldn't quite get into the corners, but it turned out ok.  Here's a picture of the dental applicator next to a Q-tip so you can see how much smaller they are.
 

 
 an example
I painted some cardstock light blue and glued it on the back of the transom to suggest some depth in the windows. Here's the result:

 

 
 

More work on the transom.
 
I tried using an airbrush to paint the window frames, but that was unsuccessful. I just couldn't get a good coverage. I ended up watering down the paint and applying a few coats with a brush. I think it still may have been too thick.
 
The microscope coverslips arrived, so I installed the windows. I used a tungsten-carbide scribe pen to cut out the windows. I found the easiest way to do so was to first cut a template out of paper, then dampen it and stick it on the glass. I probably could have used PVA, but water was sufficient to keep the template from moving around. Then I used a metal ruler to guide the scribe pen on each of the sides. It required very little pressure, but a few strokes and the glass came free easily.
 
I had a bit of problem with the CA glue getting all over the place. I put just four tiny dots of CA in the corners, but it had a way of moving around as I placed the glass. I used medium CA. I made the mistake of attempting to clean oil (aka fingerprints) off the glass on the left-most window by dumping the assembly into a jar of alcohol. That just started to dissolve the paint and deposited it on the glass. I won't make that mistake again!
 
I also decided to bend the transom using heat off-model before installing the frames. I feared bending it after the glass was installed could break the glass.
 
The final result is not too bad, but not great. I ordered some micro applicators that dentists use and I'll use them to carefully clean up the windows before I install it on the model. It also needs a bit of paint touchup.

I've made some progress, but have not had much time. The gunports and oarports are framed and I started work on the transom.
 
The gunport framing:

 
I decided to cut some thin strips of cherry as planks on the transom. I wanted to get the idea that these were planked, rahter than use the solid piece of basswood. It still needs some sanding.

 
I cut the transom sides away to align with the ship plans and based on Robert Hunt's practicum for the Mamoli version. I also filled in the center window with a plug.
 

Slow progress this last week. There are always more important things to do than our hobbies!
 
I decided to wait on the transom. After reading others' attempts to do carvings, I am going to take a crack at it. So, I'm going to order some boxwood and carving bits for the Dremel, and start the learning process. Through other's recommendations here, I purchased Bill Short's book on carving.
 
In the meantime, I started working on the gun ports.

11 strips of second layer planking left...
 

That was fun. Not the most difficult hull i ever did but also not the worst. I still do not know if I like or dislike the fist layer plankings. They are rather thick maybe too.           

Update
the first 3 planks per side are on now. looks like  there are not enough red cedar planks for the whole length, so I might need to use the cut off ends and stick / shaft them together.
 
Nils
 

 
planks are 1,5 x 6 mm
 

 
this is one of the pedestal spindle counter press in nuts
 

 
the frames deckside beams will need some trimming and adjusting in order to get a smooth deck lay on

Update.
the hull is under way, the frames fit and glued to the keel, stringers are placed and now it is ready for planking....
 
 

 
The frames are made after glueing on the tranparent paper templates to the 2,5 mm thick 5 layers aero-plywood. per good old jig saw cutting

 
 

preliminary keel and stringers are for aligning the frames in centerline corresponding to the mounting board
 

 
the third last frame had to be replaced ( here cardboard template)
 

 
the outcuts for the stringers are 2 x 3 mm and possibly need to be slightly adjusted to straking and fitting the stringers flush with te frame outer contour
 

the wooden baseplate is a leftover of my Pegasus build, provided with new distance logs for the ELBE 5 frames
 
 

stringers fit to the frames, they are staking quite well and leave minimal touchup trimming. The keel will be brought to shape at a later time
 

there are two slots in the keel that take up the spindles of the pedastels later on. To allow sufficient countering of the spindles above the keel there are logs glued in between the appropriate frames
 

I fitted 14 frames at a distance of 40 mm. Here can be seen how filigrane the contstruction is. I use watertight white glue
 
 
The brass
 
the two brass pedestals made for old candle holders (flea market) and the zinc galvanised  M3 spindles
The  braced on short U-profiles take up the keel.

Finally for today I went to do deck planking. I was really confident with this part (falsely, as I think it transpires). I was taken back by the whole speed at which the Impact Adhesive dries. This is the thing I kind of struggled to cope with. As you'll see if you look closely at the pictures, I didn't manage to plank this as well as I had hoped. For at least 3 planks, I tried to re-lift them and re-lay them. This however, wound up with a couple of broken planks. It's easy for the experienced amongst you to spot this, and I imagine those with a Keen eye will spot it too.
 
However, for me, having now accepted it, I have decided it adds character to the deck. I've been on enough of the "older ladies of the sea" to know that the decking isn't perfect on them  and they've seen their fair share of damage and repair after the event. So here's where I called it quits for tonight.

So far, so good, right? Well no. Two problems at this point:
One) If you look at the picture of thw Laser Cut Walnut block, it doesn't look anything like the plan next to it. And it isn't. So I've raised a query with the supplier, but as yet, haven't heard back. I shall give them time.
2) A11. the Stern, was missing. I was certain I'd cut that out of the Laser cut Sheets.I couldn't find it. I'd labelled them all before I cut them out. I couldn't understand it, It was horrible. For two hous I was checking through the offcuts, the parts that the wife had tidied  away in her lovely attempts to clear more space for me and all the pieces you see laid out on the green cutting mat in the pictures above.
 
Finally I gave up and sat down to look through the pieces again, and the instruction manual. I'd also checked a few people's YouTube videos and the instructional videos, and decided to at least dry fit the parts where they were supposed to go. I'd deal with the missing Stern rib later.
 
However, on dry assembly I found I had two parts labelled A1- the false keel and another rib part. Could it possibly be? Yes, YES it was! In my labelling excitement I'd missed out a 1. This was, of course, somewhat frustrating, and now the wife is taunting me for it,
 
I then aligned all the pieces and glued things up. So here's the Dry Fit and the Glued versions. It's all mounted in this Polish Slip RIg which I found online (when I find the site for it I'll link it somewhere).

There were tears before bedtime with this one.
 
I think I need to start at the beginning. The kit arrived later than expected. It was almost 3 weeks after the order was placed. Being a first-time builder, I was of course, very excited and quite ready to begin, but sensibly saved it up for the weekend. Whilst this was quite a good idea it did cause me some isssue.
 
I had spent the previous two weeks looking on OcCre's website and found the Instructional build videos helpful. As such, I took the first couple of hours making sure that every part that is listed in the instructions is there. I have to say they're generous and they have provided extra pieces, such as more planks than are needed for the Decking.
 
So I checked this all very carefully, and whilst there were two bent pins, out of a total of 400 that are supposed to be there, there were 408 including the two bent ones. I don't feel hard done by at all. Here's some shots of the unboxing and part breakdown. I had labelled every plank and mast and spar but what I wasn't prepared for were the problems ahead.

The photoetched accessories arrived yesterday, so I could finish the ship. They improve the look of the ship quite a bit.
 
If somebody is interested building the ship, can find the 3D files, decals, etching here: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/ms-bydgoszcz
 

I finished the stand yesterday. It's made of pinewood, pickled with mahogany coloured stain. The nameplate is photoetched from nickel silver (it was made at home, so not perfect quality). The ships rests on two (20 mm diameter) brass tubes painted black.
The ship is finished at the moment, because I have to wait for the remaining photo etched parts (railings, etc.)
 

 

 
The full view

 
The ship at it's final place on the shelf

 

The finished rigging. I also added crane hooks.
 

 

 

It's nothing special. The ship needs a lot of doors, railings, ladders, and stairs, which is cheaper to make "at home", than buy kits at a hobby-store.
First I design the parts in the 3D software


 
Then I create the graphic of the etching film in a vectorgraphics program

 
Finally I send the drawing to a company for photo-etching.
 
But hopefully in a few weeks I will be able to make photoetched parts at home, even more cheaper and faster, than with a company. I had quite a long disruption with the previous supplier, and took a long time to find the current one. Also making it at home have much shorter turnaround time, than with an external supply (few days, vs few weeks)
Feel free to ask, if you have other questions.

I finished assembling the ship, and put on the cranes. There is some rigging remaining (crane and hook control wires), which I could do at the moment.
Right now I'm waiting for my photoetch order to get to me (it's not an off-the-shelf kit of railings, stairs and ladders, cuz those were quite expensive, but a custom made kit after my design). After that I can finish the ship, and put it on stands (which are also being made at the moment)