minimini

Martin, I have a few ideas for the next build.  Let's finally get through this one first!
 
Since I will not be moving the model very much anymore, I decided it was time to make the swivel guns.  There are a total of 16, eight per side.  Five are on the quarterdeck and three are on the forecastle.  I used barrels from Syren to make my life a little easier.  There is an aiming handle mounted onto the cascabel.  It is L-shaped, extending below the swivel gun.  In order to solder this to the gun I wrapped a loop of brass wire into the neck and filed a flat surface into it on the bottom.  This gave me good surface area for soldering.  The ball at the end of the handle is brass tubing slipped over the wire.  That will be filed down after soldering.
 

 
There are two types of swivel gun mounts: a simple yoke and the one used on the contemporary model of Atalanta.  The yoke bends forward.  According to David in TFFM, this gave additional clearance to decrease risk of damage to the shrouds.  The first step was to make a paper template of the yoke.  I then cut out a brass template (the smiley face in the top of the picture.  This was made undersized to allow me to trace around it with a file to get the correct size and shape.  Shaping was done with carborundum wheels, a cut-off wheel and files.  Holes were then drilled for the trunion and mount.  The mount was shaped on the lathe.  The mount and yoke were then soldered together. 
 

 
The pin was placed through the hole for the trunion and soldered onto the yoke.  Next came blackening and finally mounting.
 

 

 

 

 

Hello gentlemen !

I continued with the creation of tin plates protecting the bungs of certain barrels:






I picked up a few twigs to make the logs:



Finally, I positioned all this small world at the bottom of the hold :













My little companion stands guard :



 

Here for the moment, the following in a few times.

Good day to you all !

Patrick

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Hi some more photos.

Hi some photos of the base of the model under construction.

The Hayling Hoy
of 1759 -1760
by David Antscherl
Distributed by: Sea Watch Books, LLC, Florence, Oregon
8 1/2” x 11”, hardcover, 200 pages, bibliography, index
ISBN 978-1-7320162-0-0
 
   On the dust jacket of David Antscherl’s latest book,  “The Hayling Hoy of 1759—1760” it states “A first fully-framed building project.”  Indeed, the author certainly delivers on that statement.  In his opening remarks Antscherl reinforces this claim by declaring that the book is intended to introduce the ambitious model-maker to building a fully framed model while avoiding some of the complexities of a British man of war.
 

   The author goes on to offer some reasons for choosing the hoy for this project.  They include the fact that these craft had a less complex framing system, they also lacked gun ports or sweep ports, and the rig was comparatively simple.  This vessel also makes an intriguing subject since it is not commonly modeled.
   In spite of the fact that the Hayling Hoy was an everyday, knock-about service vessel, she possessed some graceful features.  The scroll head is only one of two carvings on this model, the other being located on the tafferel.  Nevertheless, they add a very pleasing quality to this small craft, especially the scroll head, which flows into the cheeks and cathead supports.
 

   Antscherl makes a valiant effort to provide the reader with some historical background on the hoy, but admits that a true distinction of this vessel is blurred by other craft similar in size, rig, or even what the local populace might have considered a hoy or lighter.  The only true difference that the author could offer was the fact that only hoys carried passengers as well as cargo.
   The reader is then provided with a brief history of the Hayling, which can trace its origins back to the same shipyard that built Agamemnon and Indefatigable, both 64 gun ships of the line.  The third vessel to bear the name, she would go on to have a very lengthy career of 22 years.
   The modeler is also provided with information on the drafts obtained from the Royal Museums Greenwich that were used to research this vessel.  In numerous cases, he had to utilize drafts of other lighters and hoys from the same period, which provided details not included in the Hayling drafts.  It’s interesting to note that “as designed”, this hoy would have carried a compliment of eight swivel mounts.  The “as launched” draft, which was the primary reference for this model, does not reflect this feature.
   To the untrained eye, the hull of the Hayling may appear to be pretty straight forward, but this is not necessarily true.  The author provides the reader with many notable differences.  One example occurs back aft where this hoy features a square stern and a timber loading port.

  Almost all of this workboat’s frames are doubled, and lack chocks or scarfs, which simplifies construction.  The one exception is the dead flat frame, which is composed of a single layer that requires reinforcing.  Antscherl provides an easy means of scarfing and chocking this frame.
 

   The main hatch with its coamings, ledges, battens, and perimeter framing may appear to be a simple structure, but this is not the case.  Antscherl provides a fair amount of detail in describing how these were constructed.  His technique for fabricating the hatch cover triangular shaped ring-bolts is simple, yet effective.
 
Antscherl offers some excellent hints and tips concerning planking the exterior of the hull.  The main wale consists of three parallel strakes, and the author provides some first rate suggestions for laying them out accurately.  Keeping with the theme of a less complex model, they do not possess anchor stock or top and butt timbers.  This is primarily due to the fact that Hayling was intended for harbor service, and was not expected to withstand enemy gunfire.
   Bottom planking starts with the garboard strake, and works its way up to the wale.  This first strake can be key to an excellent planking job, and the author provides some important advice.  He then describes his technique for “lining out,” which provides reference points for laying out thread battens that provide a visual hint as to how the strake runs will look.  He goes on to explain how he utilizes these planking aids.
 

   The most prominent and massive fitting on this craft is the windlass, which measured just under 15 feet in length on the actual vessel.  Unlike most modelers who might break this component down into segments, David Antscherl demonstrates his modeling mastery by constructing this piece out of a single blank.
 

   A vertical line at the appropriate location on the drafts indicates that  the Hayling carried a capstan, but none of the drafts provide the necessary details.  The author was forced to refer to other sailing lighter drafts for the required information, which bore some surprising results.  His research indicated that their features differed from those found on larger vessels in terms of the number of whelps and the size of the upper chocks.
 

As stated earlier, the scroll head, lower cheeks, upper cheeks, and the cathead supports provide a pleasing appearance to Hayling, but they are also some of the more tedious pieces to construct.  Compared to other aspects of this treatise, the author devotes considerable attention to their fabrication.
 

   Antscherl admits that he has never seen another draft featuring the passenger awning, which is so prominent on Hayling.  Although rather simplistic in appearance, this piece presented some challenges, which included how to represent a canvas cover.
 

   One of the final hull sub-assemblies discussed are the stern lights.  Like many other components, the author explains how patterns are used to fabricate these fragile pieces.  Of the three displayed on Antscherl’s model, no two are the same, which makes the use of these templates even more advantageous.
 

   Being sloop-rigged, the Hayling differed from most vessels of her type.  The cutter rig was a more common application.  Antscherl states that one of Hayling’s drafts indicates that this hoy’s rig was much loftier than would be expected.  In spite of this, he decided to omit the jibboom, topgallant mast and topgallant yard.  The dimensions for these spars are provided if you wish to show them.  All in all, the segment on rigging accounts for approximately 30% of this book, and is quite thorough.
 

   Antscherl states upfront that this latest work is designed  to be used in tandem with Volume I of The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780.  However,  references are also made to Volumes II and IV.  The model can be built without the help of these books, but they will certainly expedite the process.
   This treatise features 8 pages of color photos, and a packet of plans consisting of three sheets.  At a scale of 1:48 they will produce a model with an overall length of 26”.
   This review has touched on only a few of the many aspects this work has to offer.  “The Hayling Hoy of 1759-1760” would be a  noteworthy addition to any ship modeler’s library.  This book is highly recommended.
                 Reviewed by BobF
 
 
 

Ciao a tutti,
Alcune foto della ruota e freccia. 
 
Hi everyone, Some photos of the wheel and arrow







Un Salutone

Now as I mentioned, this project will have pre-spiled planks.  There will be no reason for anyone to line off the hull and spile the planks themselves.  But I still need to do it.  So if anyone is interested I will post that process here with some photos.  Even though this is just a small longboat vs a large frigate, the hull must be lined off for planking and I must create a plan to follow before I cut any wood for planking.  The method described below is the same thing I did for Cheerful and it will be the same thing I do for the Winchelsea.  The one difference however, is there will not be a need to split this hull into two or three belts of planking.  Its size dictates that the entire hull will be treated as just one belt of planking.  
 
Step one is the easy part,  after doing some research to determine the correct width for your planking you must decide how many strakes will fit at mid ship (dead flat).  This will be different depending on the subject you are modeling but once you look at steele or whatever sources....you can make that determination.  For the longboat,  I have decided that it will have 9 strakes.  This is typical for these boats.  Some have 8.....and some have 10.  But this one will have 9 strakes.
 
Step 2....
Cut some thin tick strips from paper.  Hold them along the edge of the frames.  You will need to mark the overall length of the frame from the keel rabbet to the sheer.  Its very easy to do.
 

Step 3...Take that tick strip and lay it on top of your planking fan.  Because we know that this area will need to be split evenly into nine planks, its just a matter of sliding down the fan until it fills the space up.  Then mark the strip with tick marks.  The black horizontal lines on the planking fan were just put there so I have some reference to help me keep the strip level rather than angled.
 

Step 4 ..Take that strip back over to the same frame and transfer all those tick marks onto the frame edge.
 

All of the frames have been marked except for the htree frames at the bow and the three frames at the stern.

 
Now you shouldnt do this to every frame.  You should repeat this exercise for every frame except  for the last three aft and the first three forward frames.  Those three frames on each end of the hull are tricky.  There is a much easier and accurate way to determine the run of the planks for these areas.  Consider for example that at the bow, each remaining frame may not even contain all 9 strakes.  So measuring their length and dividing by nine doesnt work.  
 
This next step will not only allow you see the run of the planks at the bow and stern, it will also let you double check that the tick marks you just made on all of the other frames are correct.  You will soon be able to make adjustments to those as well.  This is exactly what I do on every hull before planking.
 
Step 5....Use some thin strips of black tape to visually create the run of the nine strakes.  I bought some typical black art tape that was very sticky.  Its like black masking tape.  I cut very thin strips from it about 3/64" wide.  These were used on the hull to determine the run of every strake.  I do half of the hull at a time.  First the aft side. Then from mid-ship to the bow.  Make sure there is no dust on the frames so the tape strips stick really well.   Some people prefer to use string that is glued to each frame.  Use whatever method works best for you.  I like the tape because it is easily re-positioned.
 
I used the tick marks I just made on each frame to position the thin tape strips.  I worked my way aft from mid-ship until I reached those last three frames with no tick marks on them.  Basically I "just eyeball it".  I just continue running the tape onto each frame in what I think is the natural and correct path for that plank.  DONT WORRY.....REST ASSURED THAT IT WILL BE ALL WRONG.  But after you place all of the tape for the nine strakes on the hull like this, you will be able to see where its screwed up.  You can carefully adjust each tape line until everything looks good.  Adjust and tweak until the tape runs smooth and graceful across those last three frames and right off the edge of the model.  Take your time with this.  Adjust them mid-ship as well because you will be able to see where some of your tick marks were wrong.
 
Than take a sharp pencil and mark the edge of the tape to create the reference lines on those three last frames.  Also do that for any corrected marks mid ship.
 
Aft side...
 

 
At the bow...
 

 
It is a lot harder to describe this process in writing than it is to actually do it.  This didnt take that long and spending this time makes it much more likely that your planked hull will look right.  So if you have any questions let me know.  Its much easier to show how to do this in person.  Next I will describe how I take the marks on each frame and convert them into an actual spiled plank.  Maybe this Sunday
 
 
 

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Thanks to all for the kind comments.
 
Board stove installed.
 
Part 34

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Mark 
A master, no just lucky
Christian
no but I have access to one where I only pay for the materials I cut , plus 10 $ per hour
 
My building board is finished and the same are the 8 angle braces


next one on the list is to cut some wood on my new table saw

 
Michael

Hi
just a small update , the knee parts and keel ar done ,one last thing that needs to be done is tapering the knee of the head.



Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads except frame nr. c


 

 
Michael
 

Mark 
A master, no just lucky
Christian
no but I have access to one where I only pay for the materials I cut , plus 10 $ per hour
 
My building board is finished and the same are the 8 angle braces


next one on the list is to cut some wood on my new table saw

 
Michael

Michael

Hi All
just a little update , before i start the model i have decided to make a build table it is made of 18mm beech ply  700mm wide 2000mm long (sorry for the bad picture)


All the bulkheads ( 32 ) and the 9 pieces that make up the stem I post some picture in a few days. out of the 32 bulkheads I only mess up one

Michael

just a couple of pictures more before bedtime,




Michael
 
 

Nils
no ,  on a shelf in my living room
 
Druxey
yes she is, I'm almost afraid to think about how much she will weigh when she's done
 
Michael

Hi All
Now after 6 weeks of high sunshine, where time has been spent outdoors, it now  time for a little update.The first picture shows my work table without any mess, it will probably be the last time it will happen.
picture 2 and 3 show The three section bulkhead shapes and 13 out of the 32 bulkheads and last but not least some of  the wood I received from Jason from Crown Timberyard last week.


It's only when you stand with the part between your hands you get an idea how big this model will be , the ruler is 100 cm long and the 2 bulkheads in the middle are 41 cm wide.

Michael
 

Dirk, thanks for your comment. I agree, the flags could be better. But - the flags are printed with laser printer on thin batist (two times from each side) and this was one of the best attempt after a long time spent.
The last part of Pandora constuction - two boats. Some pictures from hull making.