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flyer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lenzburg, Switzerland
  • Interests
    Flying, travelling, reading, free tobacco abuse...

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  1. Hi Helli Thank you for sharing that amazing build with us. That's a very clever trick for attaching the breaching rope rings to the guns. And your work looks great, clean and precise. Cheers Peter
  2. Hi Helli This looks like a tremendous Victory build - Caldercraft maybe? Would you perhaps share a few more pictures or start a buildlog? I'm afraid I don't know an alternative to diluted white or PVAC glue (Weissleim) to fix natural coloured rigging. You could try to dilute more - it should still hold the knots. On black thread you could try liquid CA but quite a few people will warn you because it will make the thread brittle (don't use it on natural thread however because of the discolouring). So far I used CA to fix block stroppings which are fixed on the blocks and never bent and therefore holds without problems. On all other knots I use much diluted white glue. Cheers Peter
  3. Hi B.E. Another great build where you improved an already excellent kit by adding your personal touch. Congratulations on a masterpiece. The unavoidable question: And now? Cheers Peter
  4. All the channels are in place as well as those gun port lids which are between the chains. To improve the stability of the chains I tried to close the middle link with some tin-solder. It doesn't look perfect but seems more stable. While constantly turning the hull for and back I came across our hero's sculpture every time and was more and more irritated by his brown breast armour. As higher Greek ratings anyway were entitled to a metal protection I replaced his leather by metal and even offered a heroic gold plating - means I painted his breast golden. It looks now more in line with the other colours, simpler and better. mizzen channel fore channel our hero looks good in his new, shining armour scuppers Perhaps it's just another one of my obsessions but I try to install scuppers on all my models. They should show that ship's hulls are just fragile and leaking eggshells and the water which comes in has to go out again. Learning where to install scuppers was difficult. Finally I found a note in 'Bellona' from the AOTS series saying that there are 6 per side on the gun deck and 7 per side on the upper deck. However no plans where to install them were included. I think that those on the gun deck could be installed similar to those on frigates where I found some information and for the upper deck I will try to find logical positions. It seems that scuppers: - are about evenly spaced in the central part of the deck - are not below a gun port and therefore covered by a gun - may be in the form of a slightly bigger pump dale near the mainmast Scuppers on the upper deck should additionally not be above a gun port or a scupper of the gun deck. The locations were chosen accordingly and the one near the mainmast on the gun deck is a pump dale and therefore slightly bigger. I used again ferrules from the electric compartment with a diameter of 1,5mm respective 2mm for the pump dales . As they are all placed within the black wales I painted them black as well. all scuppers except the foremost on each deck main channel with scuppers the second scupper from the left on the (lower) gun deck is a slightly larger pump dale stand Originally I planed to step Bellerophon onto 3 pilars mounted on an oak base, similar to Pegasus, Pickle and America. I like those stands because the model almost seems to float on them. But while handling that rather heavy hull and thinking of the rather sof MDF which should hold the 3 screws which in turn would take all the strain I started to have doubts. Some destruction tests with leftover MDF slid into the pilars' slot did nothing to dispel those doubts. Reluctanly I accepted the kit's craddle as final support for the model. Painted with palisander stain it achieved a colour slightly darker than the aged copper but lighter and more elegant than the dull black shown on the kit's box. Most of the still missing, fragile details on the hull will have to wait until the rigging is completed. I think the fuselage could be delared completed and it's time to start on the wings. Also this is the time for a celebration beer - I'll check if there's still some Corona brew in the cellar. ready to launch...
  5. Hi Mark Great work again. Good start on the copper plates although they aren't yet fully on the quality standard of the rest of the build. Just an idea: Didn't somebody in MSW use a stamp to make all rivets on one plate together? This would mean you would have to fabricate a stamp made of a piece of plastic (wood would be too splintery) with about 30 to 50 tiny nails or perhaps better pin-tips in it, protruding all the same length. This would be tricky work but if it is possible I think the making of the 2000 or so plates would go faster and you would have a regular pattern. For info: My Amati plates are 17 by 5 mm and have 2 rows of 9 rivets after 1 and 2 thirds of the width and a row of 18 rivets at the edge. This makes a distance of about 1,7 mm between the rivets, but only 0,9 mm distance along the edge. Good luck! Peter
  6. Some 40 years ago I started with Corel and Mamoli kits. Among the shortcomings of those kits were the manuals. However, if I remember correctly, they also had the original Italian text included. Sometimes I was able to find some sense there, using sketchy French, translating some key words and by eliminating the impossible. Your model BTW seems to be pure Corel fantasy. The original Valiant of 1759 was a 74 gun ship of the line - quite different. Therefore you can't do wrong and are free to build it as you please. You're the skipper, look for the most simple and logical solution. I also wondered what kind of sloop could have been the pattern for this Valiant. Perhaps the sloop Speedwell 1752 was a close cousin. You'll find some pictures of her in the web (there is a model in the NMM) which could help to answer questions and ultimately perhaps even to modify your kit a bit to resemble a real ship. Your build looks fine so far. Go on! Peter
  7. Hi Mugje A good choice, but definitely more challenging. However Pickle was a good school which you fished with honours. I'm looking forward to follow you on this adventure. Cheers Peter
  8. Finishing the hull Next was the starboard fore channel. Instead of wooden knees on top, the kit contains iron supports below to stabilize it. I'm not sure if this is historically correct but the Victory in the AOTS series book shows similar features. And they are in the same positions as the knees would be. So I followed the easy way and did as the manual told me. Fortunately I found RMC's note about attaching the associated gun port lids together with the channel and could avoid later difficulties. A feature I wanted to add was the anchor lining or bolster. In the AOTS books Bellona and Pandora I found drawings to show some information about the form but there was still some guesswork needed to build them as historically correct as possible. Finally I tried to keep it simple while offering maximal protection for the chains without blocking the foremost gun too much. It looks OK. The skipper came to enquire about the argument between the carpenter and his mate. anchor lining
  9. Thanks Michael Had a discussion with a bank clerk about passwords. Even she uses the same for all her accounts and credit cards - it isn't "1234". So I feel justified to use the same few passwords for the accounts without safety risk. Don't ask me however, which one I use for MSW. Never been on one of those plastic aircraft. But it seems an interesting concept, also when you consider all those fume events (extremely harmful oil residues from the engine lubrication system entering the cabin via traditional aircraft air conditioning systems) which happen again and again on other aircraft. But I don't thrust those composite hulls regarding ageing and especially small ground collisions (e.g. ramp vehicles overnight) because you probably won't see a trace of them in the morning although the damage will be there, within the layers of the material. But as long as they are new and the batteries don't have a thermal runaway - they are certainly great birds. Cheers Peter
  10. First of all, I think the two messengers should be spliced end on and thus forming endless slings with a few turns around the windlass (to create enough friction), leading aft trough those blocks at the aft mortar bed and back onto itself. In operation the windlass moved the messengers continuously round and round while the anchor cable(s) were temporary bound to the messengers to be pulled by them. The aftmost attachment was always taken off, brought forward to fix the newly inboard brought part of the cable to the messenger again. The cable aft of the messenger was lead below to be stowed there. Taking photos of the finished model wasn't easy but I hope you find some useful information there. Cheers Peter
  11. The next problem was how to place the ornamental Pegasus between the bow cheeks - it was more than 1mm too high. After cutting away the laurels and bending the horses legs a bit it fit but looked very meagre. As an alternative I reworked the Vanguards respective element to fit, thinking with its serpent head it could represent the chimeras carcass with its snake tail. Then I took the snake Elephant's elephant was trampling and combined it, with the same idea in mind, with the slimmed Pegasus - this looked to be the best version. The carpenter in the meantime had repaired the grating, installed the latrines or seats of ease and fixed the two knight heads on both sides of the provisional bowsprit. Finally the skipper - always with the welfare of his crew in mind - wanted a rope rail installed above the head rail to prevent them falling overboard while being at ease. a reworked element from Vanguard the final version with a part of Elephant and Bellerophons Pegasus the skipper examines the finished bow and criticizes the inadequate protection rope rails added with some leftover stanchions
  12. Just checked my old plans sheet4: The mizzen yard is the crossjack yard, has a length of 190mm and is made from 4mm dowel. The centre part is 46mm in length and is 4mm round (should probably be octagonal). The two, 72mm long, outer parts taper from 4mm to 2mm. Cheers Peter
  13. While working on the port side I tried to give the upper rail a more elegant run up to the cathead. Unfortunately I succeeded and knew I had to redo the starboard upper rail. Before I put the port head rail in place I glued the head gratings in. I used walnut stain on them and added a 1x1 mm strip across the foremost part to cover the foremost bow rail frame entirely. Then the starboard rail came off again and - because Mr Murphy had time to pay a short visit - 3 bars of the grating with it. The new rail however looks much better now. The figurehead got another layer of paint and a short search in the web revealed that Greek soldiers had metal greaves as a shin protection. They were available in metal for the elite and anatomically formed and reached around to cover also the calves. In case of our hero they are not only metal but I offered also gilding which means I painted the entire lower legs golden. the port side upper rail looks more elegant with the head rail added, the bow is almost complete the gratings in place the new starboard rail looks definitely better the skipper ponders about how to repair that grating
  14. Hi Snowy A very clever idea and an equally successful sword transplantation - and the patient even is alive! He probably used a sword to cut off the head, while he used a spear (with a lump of lead on the tip) to kill the beast. I'll think about a spear in his hand while trying to find out what he actually holds. Stay cool! Peter
  15. Hi Martin Despite any shortcomings you may see, the new figure head is a great improvement. If you really are looking for a cooler region to live, could I perhaps propose this?: Hope this is cool enough. Ok, the lake isn't even fully frozen but it's still a few weeks to go until you reach the lowest temperatures. Every February there are horse races on the lake - no Pegasuses or seahorses allowed, so the lake must be frozen. (Over the holydays I was going to hike a bit in the snowy mountains but got a severe cold the first day and was reduced to stroll among the tourists at St Moritz.) A very happy new year to you (and everybody here)! Peter

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