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Cal123

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Everything posted by Cal123

  1. I think you’re all missing the point. I live in the United Kingdom, you all live in the US. I’m talking about an international purchase which they couldn’t complete. I’m sure they have no problems sending stuff within the US. I’m only warning international customers to be careful because they let me down big time. I shan’t be posting any more on this topic - it’s up to everyone else to decide where they want to make purchases.
  2. Keith in no way should you apologise - you had no idea that Freetime would have let me down and I’m grateful that you came back to me in the first place because your reply ultimately provided a successful source for the upgrade Kit. I did just want to flag up the problems with Freetime Hobbies so that others don’t fall into the same trap that I did. I have to say the Pontos upgrade is a most impressive package and I’m looking forward to getting underway now with the kit. I’ll post some further details once I get started
  3. Just an update about the ten week saga of trying to get hold of the Pontos Mikasa upgrade kit, in case anyone else should need one or be attempting to buy from Freetime Hobbies as an international purchaser. Having accepted my order and taken about $300 from me early in March, I then waited a little over a month before I was told the kit was in stock. After a further week or so as they emailed it to say they had cancelled my order and refunded the money. When I asked them why I was told “there were customs issues“. I asked to speak to the manager or owner because they had told me that they could ship internationally but he never replied to my email or my request for a phone call. In the end I found that I could order the kit from a company called Hobby Decal in South Korea for less money is then Freetime was charging and although it took a further month for the kit to arrive it has done so today. There were no customs issues and there were no value added tax charges. Hobby Decal’s website clearly explained the purchase process, shipping process and provided tracking details. I would certainly purchase from them again but as an international customer I certainly wouldn’t ever buy anything from Freetime Hobbies
  4. Hi Keith, thanks for sending this. That’s exactly what I need and my interweb searching hadn’t found this source. I live in UK so I’ve mailed them if they can send to me, which I’m sure they’ll be able to. again, thank you and for your swift reply! 😉
  5. Does anyone know where I can buy a 1/200 scale Mikasa upgrade kit for the Hobbyboss, Merit or Trumpetter model? My research shows that Mk1 Design made it and maybe some other manufacturers such as Pontos. The upgrade I’m after has all the PE and turned gun barrels as well as the wooden deck.
  6. Hi Chris.

     

    Amati Gun Carriage question:

    I think we've 'spoken' in the past when I've been building either HMS Diana or Fly. I'm currently building Vanguard (I'm actually building her ar the 'Billy-Ruffin'). With Fly I discarded the carriages supplied and used Caldercraft ones, which I'd previously used in my HMS Diana. Unfortunately those models are 1/72 scale and so the Caldercraft ones will be too big for the Vanguard kit. Moreover there are 24 and 12lb cannons on the 74s and therefore two sizes of carriage.

    I've searched around for carriages from elsewhere without any luck, so I was going to 'put up with' the Amati ones but they do bother me. The cast metal carriages have simulated vertical bands down the carriage sides. They don't appear to be English or French naval pattern.

    I visited l'Hermione last year in Rochefort and her carriages were identical to the English pattern – although there's no guarantee that these were acurate to the French pattern of the time.

    Are the kit carriages historically accurate for any navy of the time?

     

    Also I'm aware of the two colour schemes (red or yellow) for this era, but I've seen models where the trucks, axletrees and stool bed were unpainted (simulating bare wood) and the side walls only were painted red or yellow, then those vertical straps painted black. I doubt they'd go to that length on a real warship of the time. Have you experience of any carriages painted in other ways than just overall red ochre or yellow, with the metalwork picked out in black and maybe the trucks left bare wood?

     

    Any input you can provide would be welcome.

    Cal

  7. Hi B.E. I think we've 'spoken' whilst you've been making your Pegasus and I was making Fly (I was certainly following your excellent blog). I discarded the carriages for Fly and used Caldercraft ones, which I'd previously used in my HMS Diana. Unfortunately Vanguard (I'm actually building her ar the 'Billy-Ruffin') is 1/72 scale and so the Caldercraft ones will be too big. Moreover there are 24 and 12lb cannons on the 74s and therefore two sizes of carriage. I searched around for carriages from eslewhere without any luck, so I was going to 'put up with' the Amati ones but they do bother me. I'm aware of the two colour schemes (red or yellow) for this era, but I've seen models where the trucks, axletrees and stool bed were unpainted (simulating bare wood) and the side walls only were painted red or yellow, then those vertical straps painted black. I doubt they'd go to that length on a real warship of the time. I visited l'Hermione last year in Rochefort and her carrieages were identical to the English pattern – although there's no guarantee that these were acurate to the French pattern of the time. Perhaps Chris Watton may priovide an insight – I'll try and contact him. Thanks for yout input. Cal
  8. Amati supply with a number of their kits (including HMS Vanguard, which is my current build) gun carriages which have what appear to be verticle straps running down the side of the carriages. Does anyone know if these are historically accurate? I've not seen them in any contemporary images of our remaing warships (Victory and the like). Are they perhaps a foreign pattern. And does anyone have any info on how they were painted – all over red ochre or yellow; or the straps picked out in black etc?
  9. Hi again, Thanks for your prompt reply – just before bed-time I guess! I too wanted to build Bellona – I have the AOTS book for her. And I had thought to build it from scratch. I started lofting the frames and everything. Then I put myself off, thinking of all the things I'd have to do from scratch that we take for granted with a kit (the stern carvings etc). So I resolved that kit bashing was more up my street. (Like you, I'm guessing – I'm semi-retired and am only prepared to push the envelope so far from what I enjoy doing best.) Then as I said, the difficulties with the frames for Vanguard/ Bellerophon has further made me retreat to a simpler modelling life. If Amati ever do release Bellona – or if Jotika ever releases their planned 74, I may well make one of those... but that might necessitate adding a ship models 'wing' to the house first! Enjoy the rest of your build, I'll follow with interest. I haven't decided whether I'll publish a build log yet – I too lost my log, of HMS Dianna, with the forum crash. All the best, Cal
  10. Hi Glenn, Cal here. I've just found your log for this HMS Vanguard build (together with that by RMC, who's log I'm also following – as I'm sure you are) and, as with his model, I'm impressed both by the detail in your log and by the detail in your model! (If you are following his log then you'll see the following paragraphs in my comments in his log too – so please forgive the duplication!) I'm just getting underway with this kit having completed Jotika's HMS Badger, HMS Diana, Victory Models HMS Fly and the Pannart Armed Pinnace. I'll certainly be referring your log as I go along. Having been building POB kits for about 10 years (and, I believe, having learnt alot about how to get things looking right) I began this kit with the intention of scratch constructing the lower part of the hull Admiralty-style with exposed frames rather than planking the hull. But after 4 months work I decided to abandon that plan. It was a really steep learning curve that gave me much respect for the modellers of today and yesteryear that built such models – the need to build up sandwiched frames with the frame joints running in a smooth curve through the length of the hull, coupled to the need to build-in the fairing necessary to follow the lines of the hull was what defeated me. It looked far from perfect – and I always aim for that as far as I can. So it's back to the shipyard to begin again with the POB route (sadly). I'm as yet undecided whether to build this model (which I aim to build as the Billy Ruffin) with stub masts (the first time I've done that, the earlier four being fully rigged) – I too have a shortage of space with my earlier four taking up a fair amount of room in the house. (My partner isn't keen on the idea of adding a 'museum extension' – neither would the bank manager!) rather than fully rigged with the possible addition of adding furled sails to the yards. Good luck with your Vanguard. I'll aim to check in regularly. Cal
  11. Hi RMC – I think I saw that you're Bob – Cal here. I've just found your log for this HMS Vanguard build and I'm impressed both by the detail in the log and by the detail in your model! I'm just getting underway with this kit having completed Jotika's HMS Badger, HMS Diana, Victory Models HMS Fly and the Pannart Armed Pinnace. I'll certainly be referring to the early parts of your log as I go along. Having been building POB kits for about 10 years (and, I believe, having learnt alot about how to get things looking right) I began this kit with the intention of scratch constructing the lower part of the hull Admiralty-style with exposed frames rather than planking the hull. But after 4 months work I decided to abandon that plan. It was a really steep learning curve that gave me much respect for the modellers of today and yesteryear that built such models – the need to build up sandwiched frames with the frame joints running in a smooth curve through the length of the hull, coupled to the need to build-in the fairing necessary to follow the lines of the hull was what defeated me. It looked far from perfect – and I always aim for that as far as I can. So it's back to the shipyard to begin again with the POB route (sadly). I'm as yet undecided whether to build this model (which I aim to build as the Billy Ruffin) with stub masts (the first time I've done that, the earlier four being fully rigged) rather than fully rigged as you have and maybe I'll add furled sails to the yards. Good luck with yours as you move toward completion. Do you have an idea of when you'll finally finish? Cal
  12. Thanks guys. My kit bash build is HMS Bellerophon. I'll only need carriages for the gun deck, quarterdeck and fo'csle and yes, I'll probably build them myself. For my last build - 1/64 scale HMS Fly - I bought Caldercraft carriages and mated them to RB Models brass cannons, but since I'm now working at 1/72 scale, I was wondering if there was a source I wasn't aware of of laser cut carriages at that scale. Thanks for your thoughts. Cal
  13. Can anyone suggest best options for buying 1/72 scale wooden gun carriages to replace those horrible metal ones in the Victory Models kits?
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