Jump to content

Bill Hudson

Members
  • Posts

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bill Hudson

  1. Unless you are wealthy enough to afford a mill and lathe you work with the tools you have at hand. When I first started building horse drawn vehicles I did not have a lathe to turn the wheel hubs. My neighbor gave me his little Montgomery-Ward bench model drill press. I used that to turn the hubs. I ran a long 3/8" bolt up through the plate and held it solid with a lock nut. I used that as a tool rest to turn the hubs. For milling cutters I used regular drill bits. I ground the ends flat.
  2. My mill after 30+ years of use. The T slots in the cross slide show most wear to the anodizing. That is from the hold down clamps screws a bit too long. Also some aluminum is showing through along the leading edge of the cross slide. That is all the wear there is on this mill. I found out using a white lithium grease is best. It puts a fine film on the wearing surfaces. Regular grease collects swarf and dust. A few drops of 3-1 oil on the lead screws are all that is needed.
  3. So far that has not been a real problem for me. The anodized coating on the aluminum parts of the mill and lathe is very hard. I do have some little nicks and scratches over the years but those are mostly from my screw ups. The ways for the lathe bed is steel so the swarf does not bother it at all. The cross slide is aluminum and doesn't show much wear from clamping the tool post and other accessories on it. The ways on the mill are of aluminum but don't seem to be bothered by swarf to any extent. I use an inch wide paint brush and an old tooth brush to keep swarf at bay while machining. Another similar mill and lathe would be the Taig. With Taig you can build up your own lathe or mill from their parts. The lathe chucks are quite clunky for my taste but with a ring spacer on the spindle you can use Sherline chucks. The Taig lathe does to have a lead screw, all cutting is done using a hand wheel. When I had my larger shop in operation I also had a Taig lathe. There are some advantages to the Taig if you like to do graver turning using a T rest. Taig also has leaver feed for the tail stock which is much better than the hand screw feed on the Sherline.
  4. The Sherline mill and lathe are designed to machine any type of machinable metal including mild steel. The threads on the mill spindle are the same as the lathe, in fact the headstocks are the same and are interchangeable. The threads on the mill are for use for an adaptor for holding 3/8" shank mill cutters. The two drawbar collets for mills are about as accurate as any mill in this price range. As I said before, I have been using both Sherline products for one 30 years. I have done some very intricate machining and have not had any problems with accuracy. The main thing is to keep your machines clean and adjusted. Both machines can be taken apart and cleaned. I would not recommend messing with the headstocks. I like to clean the lead screws and remove any swarf that might have accumulated. When putting it back together is the time to adjust the gibs on the cross slide. Bill
  5. Mark, I have had my Sherline mill for over 30 years. Same for the Sherline lathe. Most all accessories for one are also fit the other. Suggested accessories for the mill: Sensitive drill attachment (very useful). Tilting angle plate, Rotary table + chuck adaptor (I use my rotary table a lot) and of course the vice. Sherline has adapter for WW collets (very expensive for a set). Sherline also has a draw bar collet set for 1/4", 3/16" and 1/8" mills, a draw bar chuck for drilling. Lastly a good assortment of step blocks and clamps. I have the high speed adapter for the lathe and mill but find it mostly not an advantage. If used for an extended time the headstock bearings heat up. Bill
  6. Over her time the MC has probably had several changes. These pictures come up in my research of her showing stanchions. The first picture shows traces of lifelines just around the cabin and on the fantail. The last picture shows what appears to be gun ports or windows. So the information is very confusing. At this point the bulwarks on my model are covered and I will leave its that way but I do like the look of open stanchions. Perhaps on another ship model, maybe a revenue cutter. B
  7. The ship is the Marie Celeste. scale 1:90. In this picture it appears that the bulwark planks have been removed. I found a video U tube showing installing stanchions in the same manner. Unfortunately I am not finding the video again. (Maybe I was just dreaming )
  8. I have been researching the Mary Celeste. I find several pictures of her having a forward cabin and after cabin. I am debating with myself; do I include a forward cabin on this model? Several pictures also show a lower bulwark with lifelines on top. Many the pictures show the ship in different configurations so I am confused as to what is correct. I am also wondering what information the kit producers were working from. Because of the kit's lack of detail I feel at liberty too add details I feel belong on the ship. Feed back on this very welcomed. Bill
  9. If you are going to pint it for sure I would suggest using super glue and baking baking soda. Spread a film of glue over the area to be filled and sprinkle with soda repeating until you have a good buildup. It is very easy to sand and build up until you are satisfied. Do this before you paint. Experiment with it on some scrap wood. I think you will be surprised and how easy it is to do. Bill
  10. The plan sheet is not clear about where the fife rails are located. Just a general area of where they should go. I also don't know how many pins are to be in each rail. Any ideas would be helpful. Bill
  11. Time goes slow. Have the main cabin about done. The camera sees more than I can see so need to go back and touch up. Used 0-90 brass washers for portholes. Also added the cargo hatches. Nothing is glued down yet. the cabin is held in place with positioning pegs through the deck.
  12. this is part of my assortment of pin vices. The round head one is my favorite but is limited to #60 and smaller. It will not go down to #80. The bright metal ones have multiple chucks but again will not go down the very small drills. The little brass one will hold #80 - #61.
  13. I have had good luck using regular drill gauges. On the front sides the hole edges are rounded but from the back side they are sharp edged. I find bamboo cocktail sticks a good source for drawing. Just split them down to approximate size and start drawing at large holes (they will eventually round out) progressing to smaller sizes. Bill
  14. I built this in 1954 soon after getting discharged from the Navy. This was my first attempt at ship modeling. the ship was rigged before installing into the bottle then once set in the clay the masts and sails were raised by using the rigging. I built a special tool for reaching inside the bottle from scrap. It is a little bit ugly but did the job. Bill
  15. He is happy to see me finishing it. Today is his 61st birthday but it will not be done in time. Maybe his 62nd. I will be 90 by then if I make it that far.
  16. Although it is still a little rough I have decided to use the old deck. I was able to sand (could not find a Holystone to scale so used sand paper) out many off the dings and nicks with out sanding through the thin deck material. I was able to remove some planks from the area where the cabin will be mounted to patch the large hole that was in the deck; I'm not sure if I want stain it with a light stain. I can experiment a little under the cabin and cargo hatch locations. Bill
  17. Thanks for the feedback. It is more a curiosity for me. It seems to me to be the ticket for producing parts for scratch building of ship models. Bill .
  18. I am wondering if ny one is using a laser cutter in their ship building. Are they compatible with Mac? Dose one also need a computer drawing program? Thanks Bill
  19. Veszett, I have hopes of being able to salvage some the decking that would be removed when I install the cabin. There are couple of spots where decking is missing or there are some very deep marks that appear to be from clamps and too deep sand out. The decking material is only about 1mm thick. Thank you for your feedback. Bill
×
×
  • Create New...