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About jud

  • Birthday 08/27/1942

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    Lexington, Oregon
  • Interests
    If it is old, I have an interest, have done enough different things to appreciate most.

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  1. Those who served aboard the Fletchers and served with the WW2 Vets and Korea Vets who rode those ships in combat are entitled to find fault with the details, including the acting.
  2. Not Hatch Boards, but a common way to cover smaller hatch combings, done this way aboard the Salmon Troller Cape Race and the Junks. Standing on our Hatch Cover showing off my big fish, the Halibut I caught using a jig from the Cape Race in SE Alaska 1965, rode her from Bellingham up to SE Alaska, fished the season and brought her back to Bellingham, we jigged for halibut when the King Salmon wern't biting. The other photo was 1967 on the Bassac river, This boat is smaller than the Junks used by the RVN Navy to patrol. This one is a Popular Forces boat, they were alongside to collect empty 40M
  3. I do have some photos but they are of a WW2 vessel delivering Ammo and Grub to us on a River in the Delta in 1967.
  4. Depends on the hatch board and the intended method of lifting. The most common mistake made by modelers when creating lifting hardware for hatchboards, is that they an not made to rest flush with the surface of the board. Hatches are battened down after covering with an old tarp or two or three, then the top weatherproof cover is put in place and battened down, don't want lumps to trip over or to wear a hole in the tarps, so flush with the lifting hardware, regardless of type.
  5. Gonna tell you a story, not very long that took place on a Fletcher Destroyer, (USS Ammen DD 527) chasing Soviet Submarines off the California Coast at Condition 2, all about a potato, a Captain and a kid not long out of boot, who found himself standing the Mid watch in the Main Battery Director manning the Pointers station and also trained the thing by reaching across into that unmanned station. At 17 and no midrats those midwatches are hungry affairs. Coming off a ranch and cooking for myself often , also snacking on raw spuds, the spud locker was my Idea of salvation, I swiped two nice ones
  6. Photo 1960 USS Ammen DD 527, our main decks were painted with sand added to the walkways, non skid stick-ons were used in the superstructure and below decks, a the foot of ladders, both sides of watertight doors and around hatches and scuttles, etc. Photo is after a weeks cleanup after a collision at sea, 19 July 1960. Internet has lots about the wreck.
  7. Fletchers were not available for that duty in 42, the first one built were not commissioned until well into 1941 and were sent to the Pacific where their long legs and weapons could be utilized. From other sites frequented by those who served on those ships, most were disappointed, to many errors and missing details in the computer renderings. Those looking for accuracy were disappointed, those who cared more for the action seemed to enjoy the film. I will not be signing up to watch. The One I rode was the USS Ammen DD 527, her teeth were cut in the Aleutians.
  8. Might be a good time to look into the Lost Wax method of casting.
  9. You can see the Seamen with tools in hand doing what appears to be scraping and scrubbing the hull, granted, they may be just taking advantage of the situation. Did that once on the Cape Race, a King Salmon Troller in Alaska. We were short of full size charts and wanted to take a well used chanel as a shortcut, cautiously approached and entered, noticing the chanel had been dredged and the tailings were placed to our Starboard as we going, Skipper got too confident and opened the throttle, I was on the bow watching the water. About half way through, I spotted rocks in our path and let the Skip
  10. Don't think the patena was removed, it acts as a sealer, marine growth was the problem, it created drag. Here is a photo of the Ammen DD 527 in 1960, she is steel but the color of the dried sea growth is there to see, no seaweed growing so her hull would be considered clean. Screws are damaged from a collision. The photo showing 20 feet of the Colletts bow in our after fire room was on sea trials, with a clean freshly painted bottom.
  11. Why do you want flickering lanterns? Even when burning oil in a lamp vessel or a candle, great effort was made to prevent flicker, they used shields and any other thing they could come up with including avoiding placing them in drafts. Walk around with a light source that uses flame, or introduce a draft they all flicker, like today that flicker is annoying unless you are a drugged up hippy. A yellowish flame will produce a very undernourished light, unless an Aladdin type kept pumped up. Ever attempt to fry eggs in a cast iron frying pan in a dark cabin using an oil lamp filled with well aged
  12. Thanks wefalck. Page 165 addresses my observation and even mentions the launching of seamen. Figure '6; F', shows that much effort and thought went into preventing that. Think that were I in charge, those windless would have been driven from the front. Suspect that gravity and strong anchor points dictated how the pawls were positioned allowing gravity to be the driving force in their operation. being gravity powered plus the need for working space had more to do with the arrangement than concern about men's back, seems there were many ruptures in those days. Wider drums allowing more sockets
  13. Often wondered why the load side of the line was led out to the load over the top of most windless's seen on models and some paintings. Man is built to lift more than his own weight if in shape, the load coming off the top of the drum requires the Seamen to pull down if on the opposite side of the load, they can only exert enough force equal to their own weight that way, and would be subject to launch over the top if the equipment failed under load or you teammate's lever broke unexpectedly and the dog failed. Might be a logical reason why so many display the loads being off the top, I haven'
  14. As metal and wood have different expansion rates during heat changes and the fact that metal is stable in humidity changes but wood is not, I would use a flexible adhesive to allow for that movement. Might even be better to use a loose but close fit to allow for unrestricted reactions to the environment and use no adhesive. Even silicone dries out over time.
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