Mike Y

Floyd, maybe we had kits from different production batches, in my kit the stem have a proper grain direction, and it's not fragile at all. But thanks for a heads up!
 
Actually decided to make stem and keel out of boxwood. The reason is different - stem is a bit grey, and it's not something you can sand away. It's just how basswood looks like when it's cross grain:

 
It's quite visible on a contrast with keel, which have another grain direction. Looks dirty.
So making it out of boxwood.

Mike - The grain on the Stem does not run up & down as it should. So there is a very real chance that the top (or head) of the stem will break off. this is mentioned in several other logs. I took my que from Chuck S. in San Diego. Also the WOP does strength the wood. this is the reason I painted a couple of coats on both the stem and bulkheads.

Right, I'm in for this one too. Who's got the popcorn and beer?

If you line out the hull with tick marks for the planking,  you can determine the width of each strake at each bulkhead.  What I like to do but couldnt in the kit instructions,  (pre milled strips and all) would be to place the first sheer strake into position.  Then line off the hull from the bottom of the shear strake to the keel NOT INCLUDING THE GARBOARD.  After you line off the hull it will reveal the shape of the garboard....this can be cut and positioned early so that you will have a consistent remaining space to plank.  Planking the garboard early allows you the opportunity to see the negative unplanked space remaining and see how that space runs bow to stern.   If you see that negative space getting too wide or too narrow in places...it probably means your garboard is shaped incorrectly.  By lining off the hull you can also avoid any guesswork.
 
See Bob's build log.   I would do it exactly the same way...in fact this is exactly how I planked the hull except I do add the shear strake first.  It strengthens the hull and allows me to create the shear curve I want before lining off the rest of the hull.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2
 
Chuck

Mike, I did it early on because Chuck said so in his instructions and I wasn't about to question the master. Perhaps he will give us some insight here. I will say that placing the garboard early on does a lot to strengthen the overall structure. Remember also that you will have to reduce the number of tick marks forward of the garboard plank by 1 or 2 depending on which bulkhead.

Grant you beat me! You must have some serious power under the hood. As soon as I heard of the opening of this log I headed straight for here!
 
So Mike you decided to use the keel & stem from the kit. One suggestion - As noted in some of the other logs the Stem is very fragile and likely to break at the head. Since the grain runs the wrong way. Also did you paint the Bass parts with WOP as suggested by Chuck? It sure helps with making things stronger. I can only imagine that once we get to the point of removing the bulkheads this will be a benefit.

It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
 
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
 
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
 

 

 

 
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
 
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done

Whew, that was quite a rush to get over here from your Pinnace log Mike! Okay, made it in time for a front row seat. Mark, be a good fellow and pass me a coldie and some popcorn please.

It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
 
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
 
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
 

 

 

 
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
 
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done

Do you know how to draw a crowd or what???    :)   I guess I'd best follow the teeming masses... 

I was looking at that first link you posted and I think I see what I've been doing wrong.
 
1st my garboard plank has too abrupt a curve to it.  Gonna have to remake those.  No big deal.  
 
2nd I noticed that Bob dropped a tick mark on the bulkhead forward of where the garboard plank begins which solves the other problem I was having.
 
Also, I noticed that after 3 or 4 planks up the downward curve of the planks disappears which solves the last problem I was envisioning.  
 
Still want to see lots of pics tho!  

It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
 
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
 
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
 

 

 

 
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
 
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done

It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
 
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
 
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
 

 

 

 
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
 
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done

Just in case somebody is interested - I started the longboat build log - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6801-18th-century-longboat-by-mike-y-model-shipways-148/
Nothing interesting there (yet), but a warm welcome to all subscribers of this log, I will try to make it as interesting as possible.
Popcorn, beer, sandwiches, sawdust!

It is the first model where even the dust looks authentic! Exceptional!

T e i l  4

Thanks for that wave of comments!
Finished the display case. I made it out of plexiglass sheets and L shaped furu wood.
Looks so-so, CA is not the best way to glue plexiglass, and frankly I failed to cut accurate glass rectangles with required precision. So next time will buy a manufactured case.

 
It sounds ridiculous, but I have no place to put the model on display. This problem slightly crossed my mind before, but I preferred not to think where to put model before it's finished.
So now it is going to the drawer, until I move from rental to my own apartment, where I can easily mount a nice shelf on a wall
 
Next build would be a scratch Oliver Cromwell using Hahn's method, but I just ordered it from Lumberyard a few weeks ago.
So will start a Longboat build while waiting. Hope that Oliver Cromwell will arrive in a matter of a month or so, hence Longboat would become a side build - when I will feel bored with cutting big pieces into small pieces to make a big pieces to cut them into small pieces to make a big pieces © mtaylor.

Your display case looks very good.
The model looks great also. Everything looks great. Thanks for sharing this with us.
 
Later Tim

Thanks for that wave of comments!
Finished the display case. I made it out of plexiglass sheets and L shaped furu wood.
Looks so-so, CA is not the best way to glue plexiglass, and frankly I failed to cut accurate glass rectangles with required precision. So next time will buy a manufactured case.

 
It sounds ridiculous, but I have no place to put the model on display. This problem slightly crossed my mind before, but I preferred not to think where to put model before it's finished.
So now it is going to the drawer, until I move from rental to my own apartment, where I can easily mount a nice shelf on a wall
 
Next build would be a scratch Oliver Cromwell using Hahn's method, but I just ordered it from Lumberyard a few weeks ago.
So will start a Longboat build while waiting. Hope that Oliver Cromwell will arrive in a matter of a month or so, hence Longboat would become a side build - when I will feel bored with cutting big pieces into small pieces to make a big pieces to cut them into small pieces to make a big pieces © mtaylor.

K, making progress.
 
Got the hull faired correctly and have installed the first 2 sheer planks, both starboard and port.
 
No pictures yet.  I had borrowed a camera from my daughter and she is angry with me at this time.  Sometimes you wonder if they are ever gonna grow up!
So looking for a camera that I can afford.  Pics to come.

Thanks David.
 
I am actually compensating for issues raised over 12 years ago when this build first started.  I like to think I have matured and grown enough to overcome these things.  It will be all good.  I had wanted to keep things sturdy and boy did I over engineer.  Interesting to think I am saying goodbye to the rib tops that I have been staring at for so long.
 
The evolution of Krug.
 
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Take a breath folks. I finished applying the finish....
 
The good, it turned out nice dark brown (not as black as on the pictures) and the structure of the wood is still a bit visible. The joints of the planks appear slightly visible so it does not look like one big plank.
 
The bad, I made 400 treenails disappear, only when the light hits at a certain angle they are barely visible and the stain is a bit blotchy, applying more coats made it better but also made the treenails less visible. Only one run out at a spot I didn't want, under the strern
 
I also applied the finish (tung oil) it's still drying hence the glossy look at the moment. That will disappear once dry and a quick while with a Scotch pad. Then I can add bolts at the plank ends.
 

 

 

 
Remco

Well done and congratulations on a superb build, Mike!
 
Cheers,
Jay

Beautiful boat, Mike.  Congratulations on finishing it.