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wlell

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  1. I really enjoyed previous MSW builds of this unique model by shipmates: HardeeHarHar, Gummersall and Justin P and hope mine turns out as good as theirs. I am confused by step 3.11 “Very carefully bevel the planking by the engraved lines following the scheme on Fig. 10.” First of all, I do not see any engraved lines and second, I am perplexed by the beveling illustration orientation. Is this an end on view? I have always beveled hull planks on the top edge only as described on page 31 of SIMPLE HULL PLANKING TECHNIQUES FOR BEGINNERS Written, illustrated & edited by: Dirk De Bakker (kelvin12) and Greg Brooker (gregb) With assistance from Dave Rogers (heliman41) Any clarification you all could provide based on your experience would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Bill See below.
  2. Thanks for all the tips. Great pictures. Note the reference to Model Motor Cars. Do you build Pocher car models as well?
  3. Will I found the vacuum placement technique extremely useful for precise placement of copper tiles on my Caldercraft Victory. I rigged up a device using parts obtained from Virtual Industries – Official Site of Virtual Industries (virtual-ii.com) connected to a salvaged hospital suction pump. I would recommend checking out Virtual Industries products . I think a key to success is having the right size suction cup and adequate suction to hold the tile in place.
  4. Thank you for the advice. Looks like I am getting a Lie-Nielsen Model Maker's Block Plane for Christmas.
  5. Do any shipmates have experience or recommendations regarding the microlux or micro-make power chisel for use primarily on shaping masts? Are these both the same tool with different brand names? Thank you Bill
  6. Outstanding model SkiBee!! I am working on the same build and find your comments and pictures extremely helpful. I totally agree with your conclusions:
  7. Strong work for sure!! OK, the inevitable question: What are your plans for a case? Purchase? Build your own?
  8. Gentlemen Have you tried Precision Scale Model Engineering for blocks and turnbuckles. I suggest giving them a call to see if they have what you need. They are easy to deal with and have a lot of modeling parts in various scales. PRECISION SCALE MODEL ENGINEERING 33 HARDING STREET MILFORD,MA 01757-2215 PHONE: 508 478-3148 FAX: 508 478-3590 E-mail psme@psmescale.com Web: www.psmescale.com Good luck! Bill
  9. Sailboat392 I really like your cockpit modifications. The hull finish looks great too. What brand sanding sealer did you use? Bill Birmingham, AL
  10. Andrew How about posting some more pictures of the 1:1 while we eagerly await your build updates? Bill
  11. Andrew: It would be great if you could include pertinent pictures of Blitzen as you proceed with your build. That way we could compare the kit boat with the prototype. I am really enjoying your work! Bill
  12. You wrote: Is it quite stable? How far into the hull do the rods go? Mine is [hopefully] going to be displayed in a high-traffic area near the dining room entrance, and will be dusted and cleaned around frequently. It is quite stable. Because the longboat is not very heavy, the rods need only extend about 5 mm into the keel. Since your Lightning will be displayed in a high traffic area I would strongly recommend a display case to protect your beautiful model. She really is sleek. I cannot wait to see more pictures. Thank you for sharing. Bill Birmingham, AL
  13. I like your centerboard. I am sure most prototypes had dings and scratches. You might want to consider using two thin brass rod on either side of the CB to mount the Lightning similar to what I did on my Longboat.
  14. Andrew J Have you decided how you will mount the Lightning for display? I would think the deep centerboard might raise some issues which are best sorted out sooner than later. She sure looks great so far. Bill Birmingham, Alabama
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