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About freewheelinguy

  • Birthday 08/24/1946

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  1. Wonder if this is a repackage of a book released in 1966 (it is 303 pages, but doesn't have an ISBN #), link below. Amazon also says the new isn't avail until July, but can preordered. Can buy old for $6.00 at Abe books. Just some food for thought. http://www.amazon.com/The-First-Bellerophon-Colin-Pengelly/dp/B0000CMWG6 http://www.amazon.com/HMS-Bellerophon-C-Pengelly/dp/178346240X/ref=la_B002CDYSUG_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1400973719&sr=1-3 Happy modeling, Len
  2. Nicely done, enjoyed viewing pictures, thanks for showing them. Len
  3. Bob, What a fine Vanguard you are producing. Great job. I wanted to chime in because it seems adding the brick platform caused a height problem with the underside of the FC. Can't recall my solution from memory and don't have access, so can't give any more information. Just be aware of the possible problem. I do recall it was a easy solution, though. It's a shame with this added detail, especially on mine with closed gun ports, ships boats is nearly impossible to see this feature. Happy modeling, Len
  4. Ed, I just well spent the last two days reading this entire log. Not sure why it took me so long to come above it. We are truly fortunate having you as a member plus giving us all your unselfish time to supply such a wonderful detailed build log. I just want to give a big thank you and look forward to your additional updates. This only forifies my opinion of this forum and the many others who give their time allowing to come here and share and learn from their experiences. Thanks again. Happy modeling, Len
  5. Thanks all for the kind words and like clicks. Alan, no other pics on figurehead, but here's link that may have interest for you http://memorials.inportsmouth.co.uk/churches/st_anns/maitland.htm Mort, I have purchased my train ticket to the event (no room for Billy), but now life gets in the way which may cancel my attending. Found an abnormality is my resent nuclear stress test last week, so waiting for scheduling date. Won't know, if another stent is required, until they go in for another look see. If it's done soon, won't interfere. I'm hoping and looking forward to seeing MSW members again. Glenn, I remember when you mentioned you weren't going to rig her and I thought what a shame. Now that decision looks good to me as well. Copper tape doesn't look the best, but does speed the process up. Grant, plans are researching tea clipper ship. Time for a change from the warships. Happy modeling, Len
  6. Last Update: I have made an executive decision and am nixing the rigging this build with option to at a later date. This month marks the beginning of my fourth year on this build and I just need to start something new. I have added stubs for the masts and bow (not glued in). Since my previous update, I have added the stunsail booms to the channels, repainted and mounted the figurehead, bumpkins and safety rails, assembled and mounted the three stern lanterns. The figurehead I have deviated from the plan suggested colors and tried to duplicate the colors of an actual Bellerophon figurehead from a web site that shows the head. The stern lanterns needed an addition modification. The cast cap was too small to cover the five sides therefore I added 1/32" piece of wood and trimmed. The bottom cast piece was ok. I also cut clear plastic windows on each side. There's a few additional details I wanted to add, but not at this time. It's been a long mostly enjoyable ride and not sure I could ever attempt such a long build again. Thanks for all those who looked in and will in the future. Hopefully, something useful was picked up positive or negative on how to. Will probably post additional pix in the gallery. Mark this project as complete. Take care and happy modeling, Len
  7. Andy, Don't know if you have the newer kit where the Vanguard and Elephant white metal pieces are now made from resin. The Billy regretfully is three pieces where they only had to make a new mold of just the center (you will notice the left and right are the same as the Vanguard. And regretfully again the Billy was just left as is. This is also a shame because the stern does need to be slightly curved and the white metal pieces aren't bending. Plus the three pieces don't match up well. I am building this model and made my own individual pieces from clay. I'm sure Chris will get back to you when he can. Len
  8. Thanks Nils Build Update Finished adding associated material to Crossjack Yard and Mizzen Mast. Deviations from plans included: didn't form center section of yard into 16 sections (just left round), moved Topping Lifts and lashed around masthead (plans eyelet just below mizzen top), Brace Pendants lashed to yard (plans hanging down), truss pendants used thimbles same as fore/main (plans just wrapped around), added pin rail around mizzenmast (this will be used for belaying: truss pendants, couple halyards, lifts. Footropes to be formed later. Using several sources for reference which sometimes is subjective. Just trying to make best choice for the build. Adds enjoyable frustration at times, but just a hobby. Mizzen Mast pintail shows closeup of Chucks rope, nice isn't it. Next glueing in all three masts and starting standing rigging. Until next time. Take care and happy modeling, Len
  9. Thanks for the comments guys. Joe: No Billy at the show. I'm coming up by train which I did yesterday by attending the Richmond show where Ryland picked me up at the station (greatly appreciated). I never traveled by train before, but if I knew it would be that roomy could have boxed it up and carried it onboard. By April's show I should have the masts on, so no way traveling. Highly recommend the train. Just sit back, relax, read ebooks and watch movies (iPad and MacAir, ac outlet provided by seat, no wifi though and cost not much more than driving). Arthur: Still have that to look forward to. Seems like that phase just never ends doesn't it? Received 18th century Rigs and Rigging by Karl Heinz Marquardt at a very reasonable price cheapest I ever saw ($38+ship). Published price on jacket cover is 35 pounds $52ish. This book even has Steel's rigging tables that you can actually read.
  10. Build Update: Just completed the Fore and Main Lower yards and attached to their respective mast Used brass pin to attach yards to mast for ease of assembly. After attached ran lashing for the tyes. Upper end lashed to yard, lower end open for now and weighted down with a clip. Deviated from plans and used triple blocks for the upper blocks (these blocks are served and doubled (this did have me loosing a view more hairs and working on my vocabulary). Quarter blocks and sheet/lift blocks are also served. Used common blocks for the clew garnet blocks (didn't attempt to make myself) plus information indicates these blocks were changed to common after 1780. Most of the line shown on these yards is DMC Cordonnet cotton wht/ecru dyed using RIT dark brown (prior builds used stain but now will use dye). Footropes ends and falls are fake splice like I did on the gun port lids. When finished applied Vallejo Matt Medium to add some stiffness and holding power ( still need to do some forming down the road). All blocks shown are from Chucks Syren site, except for the sister blocks (but should be fiddle blocks). Line on the Yard and Brace Pendants is also purchased material from Chuck as is the Tye lashings and Yard Trusses. The thimble at the center of the yard is a Deadeye with the center routed out (called out thimble looked to small to me). This will be attached to another thimble on the sling by lashing. I made these up, but not shown here until needed once I attach the next section of masts. I also deviated from the model plans when doing the yard trusses. Assembled as shown in rigging book with the exception of no nave line assembly (my choice, my build). This is the first build where I have attached yards off the model for what I hope is easier. I don't think this will pose a problem once I assemble the shrouds. We'll see. Next to work on blocks and such and attaching the Mizzen Crossjack before glueing down all masts and adding shrouds. If your reading this, thanks for looking in and happy modeling, Len
  11. Gil, Have a third choice: RIT dye I was reading the below attached link of a thread on MSW from Bob that gives wonderful information on dyeing lines. I have tried using only the dark brown liquid RIT (also comes in powder which needs to be mixed) on DMC cotton line as an experiment (2 Teaspoons to 16 oz water) with satisfied results. RIT instructions say to add salt for cotton. I've tried with and without which gave same results. There's a link on that thread that shows where his original info came from (gives what to use for standing and running rigging color). It also said to use Kodak wetting agent, but I also found isn't needed for the thread I used. Probably needed if line is treated or made from other material (only a guess by me). I found all six colors recommended by Bob at JoAnn Fabrics ($4 a bottle). Amazon and other web sites sell it. After my experiment I sent Bob a PM stating my results, he did mention he has only used the powder where I used the premixed liquid. I just wrapped 24 ft thread around my palm and dropped in a jar of the hot water dye I prepared for about 1/2 hour. When I need to make more just heat the jar in microwave and drop in another section of thread. Very easy and little cleanup. I have used minwax Jacobean and General Finishers Expresso stains before which gives the desired color, but these do harden the line where the dye keeps the line texture the same. Hope you didn't mind me jumping in on your thread, but think you and others would appreciate this information. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5396-domanoff-workshop-planetary-ropewalk/
  12. Gil, Well worth the effort. You'll be able to sleep tonight. Looks great, big difference. Happy modeling, Len
  13. Bob, Thanks so much for the information and the wonderful link. Looking forward to your further posts. Happy modeling, Len
  14. B.E., Yes, they are. Especially when the line is doubled to boot. I do as you say and take a loose piece of line to mimic what I'm attempting to make. Even doing that I still make length miscalculations. Doing an un-served line isn't too big of an issue compared to served lines. Some fun isn't it? Chuck, Your material is the improvement. Great stuff. Happy cycling, Len
  15. Thanks guys for the likes and the comments. Always greatly appreciated. I did do a edit on my post. Seizings are made with Cotona Madeira (.07) not Coats (.011) as I stated. Arthur, I made the turntable to prevent snapping the bowsprit. Where I place the plywood base on my work table will keep the model clear from obstructions (other than me). As I stated earlier in my log, i snapped the stem off several times turning the model in my hands. The triple blocks are the upper blocks for the jeers falls, lowers doubles attached to the yard. Petersson book page 35. Think the next paragraph refers to plan sheet 10 which is the lifts not jeers. If it is, I made two slot pieces (bolster) to the mast cap (where Petersson page 34 shows one). Mine: one slot for the sling and one slot for the lifts (made up two sister blocks that will lay on top of the slot in the mast cap and another line that is placed over each block from under the mast cap. If you have Longridges book it shows this on page 243 with single blocks with eye (I used sister blocks). If you would like a drawing showing this page, I could shoot you a copy via PM. Happy modeling, Len

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