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  1. Thanks Glenn, Gave my equipment away, sold our house, and moved cross-country to Phoenix. Enjoying retirement.
  2. At one time Jim had built-in .008" back taper, but with my saw setup I found that adding .005 - .010 was needed. Thicker sheets and harder woods needed more. Ebony or bloodwood always needed the most. Some sheets look perfectly straight but have alot of internal stress which is released when you start to mill strips and the strips can move into the back of the blade. Sometimes flipping the sheet helps. Jeff Hayes aka HobbyMill
  3. It's always nice to be missed and appreciated! I didn't have a very good experience with furniture makers, but my experience was a long time ago and limited to just a single venture. My guess is that it's a little more complex than just finding someone with equipment. Most of their equipment is larger so there are safety issues and they are used to thinking that 1/16" or 1/32" is very accurate. Also in my case there was a lot of waste. Still a good idea to help out source some of the work. When I was milling, the majority of my time (up to 70%) was taken up by the sanding and dimensioning. After band sawing, I used the equivalent of a Jet 16-32 drum sander with a 3/4" carrier board made from baltic birch. I could run 3-4 3"x24" sheets through at a time, but you had to hold down the sheets on both sides of the drum to keep them from moving. Normally took about six passes and due to the cantilever design of the sander the sheets had to be rotated after each pass. My sander was fairly parallel to the bed but there was still a variance of about .010" over the 16" span. I rotated them around on the board, end over end, and of course flipping to get both sides. Took continuous measurements at each end and middle of every sheet during the rotation process. It was a slow, dusty, and noisy job. Seems like that 16"x36" piece of plywood never got lighter as the day wore on. I would shoot for around +.040" oversize resawing on the bandsaw, so most of the time you're not taking off that much stock. Used 120x sandpaper exclusively. Guess I could have gone with 100x and that would have saved some time. I guess if I were to do it again I would look to automate and speed up the sanding process. Things like adding rollers to hold sheets in place on the conveyor bed, faster through speed conveyor, and an automatic feeder and collection system so that you could load a stack of sheets off of the bandsaw. Multiple drum heads would help too. Obviously this would add to the equipment cost and space requirements. In any case just my 2 cents. Jeff Hayes aka HobbyMill
  4. I've used Malco too with success. Another mfg would be Niagara. They make top quality tooling. I've used their blades and was one of their distributors for 25 years in another life. Usually sold through industrial distrbutors like MSC Industrial Direct. Update - Just did some searching and it looks as though Niagara no longer sells saw blades. Jeff Hayes HobbyMill
  5. Yep, its always that way! Chuck, my comments were aimed towards people who might be considering getting into the wood business rather than trying to encourage you to expand your days by milling. You're already working 20+ hours. Thinking out loud, if someone already had a table saw and 14" bandsaw they could try out the wood business by purchasing Jason's billet inventory and offering unfinished sheets to start. Don't know how many people are interested in unsanded sheet stock but it would be an inexpensive way to test the waters. They wouldn't even need a website initially, just a pdf price list to download. Their only risk would be the investment in Jason's inventory. I'll post a separate thread on milling both sheets and stripwood when I have a chance. Some folks may be surprised that this is my 1st build and its a Conny. Most builds are of a specific version of that ship such as 1812, current, etc.. I call my build version as one with severe damage from an unknown battle with a poor repair job. Will see about a log after I get the hull painted so that you can't see the lousy planking job. I started the build before MSW and I am really surprised to see how much I have learned from all of the very talented builders on this site. Thanks to all for their contributions! Thanks for the comments and PM's. Miss everyone and sorry for being away so long. Now I'll get off your thread! Jeff Hayes
  6. It is nice to be missed and appreciated! Last year I moved to Arizona and have just started to do some modeling after about a 15 year break while I was doing HobbyMill and cleaning out the dust from my house so that I could sell it. So I've been lurking the past few weeks while I was restarting the model that I started 15 years ago. I agree with everything that has been said about milling. Can't believe that I did it seriously for 10+ years! One thing to add is that I needed to sticker and store my boxwood for about a year until it got to the correct moisture. Then I controlled the humidity in the shop year-round. Oftentimes I also needed to wait a couple months for the next shipment to arrive at my supplier. I do agree with Chuck about picking up a hobby saw to mill your own strips from sheets. That's how I milled all of the stripwood for customers...over 1,000,000 pieces, one at a time. Someone who is milling it for customers could setup a system of ganged blades as did Lloyd Warner did when he was in business. Sheets are a whole different story as I never found a good automated way to do them accurately. Takes a little bit of time to get the billets ready and then about a minute per sheet to cut them on the bandsaw. It's the finish sanding that takes a lot of time. Did I mention the dust? About a drum of it per week that I caught and the remainder went airborne. Billets of boxwood are easy to make. It was the holly and pear that took a lot of time to get decent clear billets. If anyone has questions on how I did milling I'll be more than happy to share. Send me a PM or start a new thread. Don't want to hijack Chuck's thread. Jeff Hayes Aka HobbyMill PS - Gave all of my shop equipment away to a family member when we moved
  7. Have some inventory left over and I'm planning on having a sale after the Holidays. I'll post details here on MSW when I am ready for the sale. Also I would recommend Crown Timberyard as a great alternative to my products. Cheers, Jeff Hayes HobbyMill
  8. Mike, That is a hard one to give a single answer. Assuming that where you are storing your wood is at room temp and the humidity isn't at one extreme, then probably not using the plastic sleeves would be a good idea. On the other hand if the environment tends to have high humidity during the year or varies significantly, then leaving it in the sleeves and sealing it when the wood is around 40-50% humidity would protect it from condensation and mold. Just think of the sleeves as adding a barrier around the wood. If the wood is at the proper moisture content and the atmosphere where you store it is a constant 40-50% then there is no need for the plastic. On the other hand if you seal the wood in plastic when the humidity is really high and then put it somewhere really cold there will be condensation. Storing it wet with elevated temperature will promote mold. I guess the silica bags would work, but then you would want to leave the wood sealed in plastic with the silica. Don't know how well that would work or if it would be too dry, but it could be expensive. Over time silica would collect moisture from the air if it isn't sealed and become saturated. It's just common sense and again be sure to check it periodically because your "stable environment" might change over time. With respect to bugs, kiln drying should kill any borer eggs. Also any bulk woods that are imported go through a fogging treatment too. So any bugs are most likely to come from you local environment. Cheers, Jeff
  9. I agree with everything that Augie mentioned in his post. 1) Store you wood at a constant temp and humidity. Ideally at room temp and around 50% humidity. My shop is environmentally controlled so I'm adding moisture during the heating season and running dehumidifiers in the summer with the A/C. You can pick up humidity gages pretty cheaply these days so you may want to consider one. 2) Light and oxygen affects nearly all woods. Most will darken over time with some like cherry being more susceptible to exposure. Holly yellows, boxwood picks up a golden tone that varies with each piece, swiss pear darkens too, but not as much as cherry, redheart turns orange, yellowheart darkens to a golden yellow, walnut will lighten, bloodwood darkens just a little, and ebony doesn't change much. So store milled wood away from direct light or wait to mill it until you are ready to use it. If color stability is important in your model then use a sealer with a UV inhibitor and resin that doesn't yellow. Acrylics are known for not yellowing where most others yellow over time. 3) Store your wood sheets flat. Most wood has internal stresses and the wider the sheet and thinner they are there will be a tendency to curl. Also wide variances in temp and humidity will increase the curling. If the humidity is controlled then you should be able to stack the sheets and add some weight to minimize curl. Suggest that you check the sheets periodically, especially if you have high humidity. Stacking also minimizes exposure to light and oxygen. Of course this assumes that the wood was milled from properly dried wood to start with. Milling green or high moisture content wood is another issue altogether. 4) Stripwood storage is less of an issue, but it should be stored flat and away from light with constant conditions. 5) Just use common sense and inspect your wood storage regularly. Hope this helps. Jeff HobbyMill
  10. Akrowood sells catello box and they will dimension it for you too. Because they are in the European market the price and shipping won't be too bad. Otherwise use Crown Timbers here on MSW for a US source. Jeff HobbyMill
  11. Keith, Thanks for the pics. You may have tried this already, but you may want to reverse your cut by cutting the back of the carriages first. The tear out usually occurs on the backside of the piece so instead of having the fuzzies on the stepped edges it would be on the more consistent front edge. Also adding some masking tape to the backside of the cut will help too. It's a common carpenter's trick. Couldn't tell from the pics if you have a stop setup on the fence ahead of your cut. If not, you may be experiencing kickback. Typically you should not use the miter and the fence on a cut without a stop. Pick up a book on tablesaws at your local library as there should be some good tips regarding setup. Finer pitched blade may help a little, but mostly changing the orientation and adding the tape should get you most of the way home. Also going slowly when the blade exits the wood on the backside will help too. Good luck! Jeff
  12. Use castello box, but save yourself the headache and buy Chuck's. Great value and use your castello for planking and other parts of your build. Arko was selling some really nice castello. Jeff HobbyMill
  13. Primary difference between Jim's draw plate and a jeweler's drawplate is that a jeweler's drawplate is designed to compress metal whereas Jim's is designed to cut wood. That's why jeweler's drawplates don't work well for treenails. Jeff
  14. Richard, It's a sulphur yellow. Brighter yellow than box and most woodworking stores like Rockler or Woodcraft carry it. As Mark says, it is a coarser grain than box, but not as coarse as walnut. Hard wood that holds edges. Main uses are accent pieces and accent planking strips. Works pretty easily as planks. Mostly I sell planking strips or sheet stock in thinner sizes. Sold a fully planked hull once, but I never saw the pics of that build so not sure if it was too bright. Got a surplus in stock so feel free to order some before I shutdown on 12/32/14. 25% discount for MSW members. Just ask for the discount when ordering. Jeff HobbyMill

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