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piperck

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Everything posted by piperck

  1. Thanks for the heads up. Will get on the link and check past postings.
  2. Okay, that makes sense. Thank you for the reply.
  3. Hello, In need of some assistance. Current build is Toulonnaise, old model that I started a year ago. I’m stumped on foretopmast shrouds. Instructions state “from foretopmast though crosstree behind ratline to block…” On drawing there is a part that seems to come out of mainmast that shroud passes through, and lay of the rigging is diverted in drawing. I do not know what this is, as it has no part number or explanation. I have included photos. What is that illustration indicating, and what is that thing I have circled? Appreciate any help on this. Thanks.
  4. Hello All, Thanks very much for the help. Yes, I should have simply Googled this. Allan, the ship model is the Toulonnaise, 19th century French. I will check Antscherl and thanks again for the help. Chris
  5. Thank you for the replies. Does 3d Lettering exist that I can glue on and paint, or do modelers carve these out of a wood? Thanks for any help. Chris
  6. Hello Shipmates, A question on ship lettering. I need to place ship lettering on the transom of a model. The font size would be 22-24. I would like it superimposed on a plank across the transom. Can anyone suggest if letters can be bought for this or (shudder)do I carve these or perhaps scribe them onto the plank if superimposed cannot be done? Any suggestions would be great and thanks for any help. Chris
  7. In my mind the question is "What makes a person give up building a model" ? Both beginners and advanced modellers procrastinate, stall, lay a model aside for awhile, and often just forget the whole thing. I think one big reason are unforeseen problems. Novices, obviously, run into problems more often than veterans and are more likely to lay it aside, and combine a novice with a more complex model and likely more complications arise. I have built 4 POF models and 2 solid hulls. On my current Toulonnaise, a 20 year old model which I have been working on for 6 mos, the carronade fittings on all 8 broke. In trying to figure how to fix the issue, I had no clue. I had to figure it out and laid the model aside. I finally picked it up and fixed the issue. Then, in a blunderheaded move, the round ports were found to be too low on the hull(always learning!). Now I have to move them which will take some time. But, I like challenges. Novices run into an issue like this and maybe forget the whole thing, but if I had not started with easier models and built up the problem solving experience, I might have done the same. Other issues that arise that lend to quitting(poor instructions, boredom, de-motivation, poor materials, etc) have been mentioned, but starting with easier models and building up was helpful in acquiring what little skills I have and it helped problem solving. Just my 2 cents. Chris
  8. Is there a model of the HMS Speedy available? If not, with the popularity of the O"Brien novels, it would likely be a popular kit. Chris
  9. Lots of great suggestions. Additionally: *I would go for more French or British Frigates as has been mentioned, but American Frigates would be especially welcomed. The other types of kits I would like to see are more yachts from the late 1800's thru the 1930's, or merchant vessels from the mid 19th century. *Quality material POB or as a transition to POF from POB for intermediate modellers just leaning POF. *Price $250 to $400 *Time frame 8 mos to 16 mos *Intermediate builds would be great. As mentioned, a transition for modellers graduating to POF from POB who are not ready for scratch building. *The suggestion for the HMS Shannon and the Chesapeake was a good one and would be very interesting, or some other famous sea combat action. Chris
  10. Thanks so much for the replies, and I truly appreciate the photos. I asked for edification and I received it.
  11. Let me describe this issue a bit more, as it should be so it does not sound so blasphemous.The model armament are carronades. There is a round aperture and a wooden collar in the plans that I believe is appropriate for such armament.The gunport doors are horizontally placed. The plans show the doors closed. I would like to have them open if possible. The ship was launched in 1823. I was simply asking how far one can venture from what is called for in the plans, if historically accurate and keeping with what was done in that time period. Thanks for all your responses anyway.
  12. Let me describe this issue a bit more, as it should be so it does not sound so blasphemous.The model armament are carronades. There is a round aperture and a wooden collar in the plans that I believe is appropriate for such armament.The gunport doors are horizontally placed. The plans show the doors closed. I would like to have them open if possible. The ship was launched in 1823. I was simply asking how far one can venture from what is called for in the plans, if historically accurate and keeping with what was done in that time period. Thanks for all your responses anyway.
  13. Interesting comparison, jbshan. For a minute, I thought you were flaming me! If i built a hot rod and decided that round vents on the front fenders worked better, I would go with it. If someone in the distant future built a model of my hot rod, I would hope they would have researched it and included the round vents, not the more apt louvered vents. However, if my hot rod got into an accident and was modified, someone might choose to make a model of that vehicle. If it were a green hotrod, and someone wanted to make their model a red one, that would probably be okay. Many ships get modified over time. The CW Morgan looks very different now than it did in 1962 and 1940 and beyond. Which one will your model be based on? Model plans are not always accurate. If research lends credence to a change in models appearance that sounds legit to me. And, more relevently, if one wanted to have gun ports open instead of closed as shown in the plans, yeah, thats interchangeable.
  14. Thanks for solving this problem for me, Jagger. I really appreciate it and will do as you suggested. I have a general question that has probably been asked before. How true to the plans does one have to be? In building a model, is there wiggle room to do things in a way different than what is called for within the boundaries of historical accuracy? For example, on the Corel La Toulonnaise, the gunports on the plan are little round ports for the muzzle cut into a framed port with out hardware. I just thought the model would look better with an open port perhaps with hardware. Is this type of mod frowned upon? I know there are no rules. Just thought it would look better. Thanks again for the help. Still learnin but I just love this stuff.
  15. Hello, I am currently building a 20 year old kit of Corel La Toulonnaise. I am about to start the second planking. However, at some point I have to insert cannon ports. On this kit, there are no pre formed gunwales with ports already placed. The top deck gunwales are planked, no thin plywood, just planking. Do I cut thru both plank layers, or cut the ports now? I will use a template for the ports, but how do you suggest stabilizing the planking before I cut out the cannon ports? Perhaps an inner veneer of plywood between the frames? Thanks so much for any help.
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