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popeye the sailor

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About popeye the sailor

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  • Birthday 08/31/1956

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  • Location
    Manchester N.H.
  • Interests
    modeling, bass guitar, music and writing

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  1. I'd be delighted to wait don't leave us in the dark!
  2. thanks J........I was just tinkering with the differential. I may have to remove a bit more in the engine well......I'm toss'in a v8 in there. I'm also beginning to have doubts about the steering.......the engine is definitely going to be in the way. I may have to do something cheeky with it ....or dummy it up it's still early..........we'll see. I need to get the frame and drive train assembled, so I can see what needs to be done. gonna try and take a better look at that corvair engine...........you've peaked my interest now thanks for following along........and thanks for those who hit the like button!
  3. I got an e-mail advertisement from one of the places I browse.........look in the model kits area.......I think it's the Macron, but in the wrong scale autoworldstore@dlisys.com paste it in your browser
  4. I managed to get more done.......errands took up the afternoon. after figuring out where the engine should be.......I made up some mounts for it. this part is a cross member for the front suspension, that would be in the way of the oil pan. cemented on both sides of the frame, they were sanded to accept the engine block. there is enough room for the drive belt and the fan......the radiator fit on the front of the cross member. I had cemented the spring on the rear differential, but I see that there is a problem here. the spring need to sit forward and at an angle, to make up for when the drive shaft is connected to the transmission. I'll adjust it later. rather than cut the tail shaft off of the trans, I'll cut the drive shaft down to length. there too much of a mismatch there....seem the best thing to do. I did paint some of the window maker on the backs of the windows.......it worked about half way. they are clear, but the 'frosting' can still be seen. I remove them all from the tape......exposing the back sides to the air hastened the drying time. they look a lot better in that respect this is the differential as it sits now. I cut off the pin at the front of the drive shaft and drilled a hole for the tail shaft to locate into. then I cut off the spring, cleaned everything up, and relocated the spring forward and at an angle, so that when the front of the drive shaft is connected to the trans, the spring will sit perpendicular to the frame. now I need to shorten the drive shaft about a half an inch. I will wait till the engine is cemented in place, so it won't move as I get the measurement right. as for the front suspension.......the tie rod and drag link has been added, and stabilizer bars have been added. another part that had to be modified. the frame had also been painted...... the engine well has been widened.......cutting out the splash guards that were on both sides of the well itself. I left off on this , trying to fit the fire wall. there is no 'give' to the body.......so this makes it harder to do. but I will get it in there. I think I should get the seat in place first though........I may not be able to remove the fire wall once I fit it in minor problems..........gotta love 'em!
  5. looks like an interesting kit.......post the link so others can see it it may peak their interest too! I finally took the parts out of the brake fluid.........it looked like where I had painted wasn't affected... the badge that goes on the front of the smoke box was entirely stripped.......a little scrubbing on the back was all it needed. this part will get painted in three different colors....the sand dome behind it will be painted yellow. I use Dawn dish washing liquid to do this....after all.........Dawn takes grease....out of the way! I did find out differently about the paint on the stream dome......once in the water and I messed around with it, it came right off. now, outside of the tub of soapy water and the faucet, these are all the tools I use.........a stiff wire brush and a pair of long tweezers the end result after they have been washed and dried....be sure to let them air dry as well, before painting them. again.......if your rinsing them in the sink....remember to put some sort of fine mesh strainer in the drain.........or you'll stand a chance to loose small parts now I can clean up the stream dome and get rid of those nasty lines!
  6. there are dirigible kits out there.........likely not a lot of parts. they were filled with air {helium} why not display it from the trapeze on the plane?
  7. hello Greg........thanks for the kind word don't get me wrong.........in spite of having to clean up the parts, it's not a bad kit. I think if you have the original kit, you might not have such a trying time. the molds are old and probably need some retooling. then again, I'm not a big fan of mold lines and injection pin marks....don't think anyone is I thought as much Ron........really don't think there was that much 'glitz' with these older trains I have to add them later anyways........decals will cover some of the holes and they need to be opened up afterwards. thanks for confirming that ........and look'in in
  8. thanks CDW........I've been working on the frame at the moment, getting the drive train figured out. already figured out that I need to widen the engine well. the worst part will be the steering column... thanks for the good word
  9. pencil me in on that one no one could have that bad a rep..........Hobby Craft has them beat! the plastic was too thick and poor fit......I built their Fokker Dr 1 {I had to modify the fit of the middle wing}. cool kit.......never heard of them before.
  10. I'm back and fourth on it J.........I though this would be a quick little ditty........who would have known I'd go overboard! I found a place that shows all the firing orders, but then again I also have repair manuals I can refer to. the progress must miss me terribly..........I've had urges to go in the other room and work on her.......probably the reason why I spun off on such a strange journey. I'm not crazy......I just suffer from over activity I've been standing in the middle of the see-saw long enough. any one step will either hinder or make the next mode harder. as was said during the second world war........this was a defining moment. I had trimmed the long tab off the mating surface on one of the fenders........I did the same to the other one. I know that I will need to make a few more mods to the fenders, but I stuck them on anyway. now that they are part of the model, perhaps I can figure thing out better. the partial frame under the body denoted how they were to be attached. this will make it a bit harder to add the firewall.......I may also need to remove the areas on both sides of the engine well, to widen it. now that the fenders are on, I can add a few more cross members under the body. I will add the rest {2} when I cut out for the transmission. I've marked out for the firewall {where it will sit}, so I can assemble the cover on the body floor, and cut out the extra stuff later. as for the seat, I added the front part and a couple legs to keep it level. once painted, I don't think it will look too shabby. I have room to move it back, if I need to........that's a relief! then the bottom got some paint. I still need to paint the top red.......I then turned to the frame. the engine needs to sit far enough back to leave ample room for the fan/radiator relationship. I tried to add the support bars for the front suspension, but the oil pan changed all that....I'll have to do something different. the drive train/differential is still in the balance, until the engine is decided. I hadn't done it yet......but I finally took a look at the decal sheet. oh yea! they will really dress her up nice I'll hold off on any sort of pictures 'till the end, when I go through that process. I also went online looking for images of past Coke logos.........but after seeing the sheet, it was a waste of time. the portholes are another dilemma........the first test is almost ready to inspect. they are stuck to a piece of tape and filled with the window maker. in the back of my mind, I know that when tape is peeled off the roll, it adopts a rough texture, until it is applied to whatever surface your using it on. but, I've used it here as a seal for the porthole edges, so the window maker doesn't ooze out. clear and dry in the middle........it can be seen that it is still whitish around the brass. I know what your thinking...........your thinking "but Den.......there's only three of them here?!?!? where's the fourth one?" the answer is.........I couldn't wait as with all skeptics and most children {even though you've told them no}, curiosity killed the cat, and I pulled one off. to show you just how clear this stuff dries, I laid it on the instructions. the 'glass' does look a little rough........taking on the texture of the tape, I wonder if I could clean it up by painting some over the inner surface. I will try it....what could it hurt? the second Idea I had, was to lay out some plastic wrap, pinning it so it had no wrinkles. one could go under the assumption that the brass porthole is heavy enough to prevent the oozing, or they could be held in place with thumb tacks....and then filled with the window maker. whoa........too much thought..........I gotta go take a nap! 😫
  11. air brush will be your best friend, once you get used to it I was sick too a couple of weeks ago, so I deeply sympathy with you. no modeling for me either. rest up and get better.........to keep yourself from being a bump on a log, getting the metal mold line to go away will take some time
  12. I built the Revell kit way back in the 80's............didn't come out nothing like your though very nice work....she looks splendid!
  13. I've compiled progress from last night and this morning. then I had to work on my younger son's car.......not a big job, bu I uncovered other possible reasons why his vehicle had a code. working more on the body, I painted the roof. then I started on the gold molding......makes me wish I had painted it white I did it by eye.......goofed on the driver's side a little. I won't change it, for fear of ruining the model. I did a simple bit across the front. ......and now for the back. I need to do it so it shows that there are two doors......shouldn't be too hard to do. I've added more to the engine as well........the carbs, air cleaners and valve covers I did a bit of scrounging between the kits that I have.........I had the slicks from the Chezooom Corvair build.....you would never know that for that build, I used plastic tires. the rims came from the '40 Ford Sedan. I also need to get think'in about the interior.........the seats won't fit, nor will do. there are some parts in this kit, that are not in the instructions...perhaps I can make some use for them. I came up with a buckboard style seat.......still needs to be fitted in. I need to pull the trigger on the frame and suspension sooner or later........the whole project is riding on it.......literally! the engine needs to be mounted first, so I can figure out the rest of the drive train. I started the ball rolling with the front end suspension........more needs to be added. the porthole windows is still in the problem stage........I must have tossed out the last of the old bottle of window maker. still thinking that filling the porthole with the window maker can be done, I devised a couple of tests I can try. the first one here, involves a short strip of tape, sticking them to the sticky side....and then filling them with the window maker. they are about 1/2 dry now.........I should know more in a couple more hours... I've marked off where the firewall cut out should be. all the more reason why I should move on the interior.

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