glbarlow

On 9/16/2022 at 3:30 PM, Chuck said:

Note the poop shoot!!!

How did they sit on the small thing, while the waves are pounding away and the bow bouncing up and down....  So nobody says, hey Cap' can I use your quarter gallery....

On 9/18/2022 at 9:42 AM, chris watton said:

quite a few emails recommending books

And here we thought you just made this stuff up as you went along 😂🤣😂 
 

I am quite confident both yours and Chuck’s designs are throughly researched and fully historically accurate.  It cracks me up when some question some minute detail. 
 

It is of course worth noting, again, your business model to create models everyone can build requires some compromise, @glennard2523 is a good example of out of the box building. None of the compromises can’t be undone by skilled modelers, look no further than @Blue Ensign or @DelF  with their approach to Vanguard models. 
 

You’re doing great Chris, thanks for upping the quality of ship model design. 

Thanks for the linked reference. 
 

Pre-bending is essential, in my experience Chuck’s heating technique, which I use exclusively noe, is the way to go. 
 

In my opinion and experience CA is the most effective and reliable adhesive for planking. Not all CA is created equal, I use Smith Industries medium. Applied correctly it work great. As noted I do my best to describe all this in both my Cheerful and Winchelsea logs, both single planked ships, no pin holes needed. 

That looks nice and tight. Well done. Very cool how you’re cutting your own. As a photographer I use Photoshop but never touched anything to do with vectoring, looks like you’re on your way to mastering it. 

It is of course your model, I’m certainly no maritime historian. 

1 hour ago, garyshipwright said:

what is the length of the strakes them self

They will vary based on the start of the bow and finish at the stern driven as dictated by the pattern. Check the length of those midship on the plans, the sheet showing above the wales planking. 
 

I’m sure you’ll sort it out, it does stand out nicely once planking is complete. 

The curved planking is tricky, but so worth the effort once sorted out. Your Cheerful is looking great. 

I agree it’s important we share what didn’t go well and how we adapt to make it work That most benefits those that follow. Just as your post will help me when I arrive at this point. 
 

Well accomplished Rusty!

As a suggestion the plank joints should follow a consistent pattern that would always end on a bulkhead. The plans show this above the wales. I extrapolated a pattern from those and kept track of it as I planked the hull. 
 

Another of Chucks suggestions is to print out the bow cap rail templates from Chapter ten and match your bow to those now while it’s easier to make adjustments if needed
 

Nice work, you’re very thorough.

This is really great work, well done. Doing the bulwarks before the frieze work seems a good idea. 

Well done.  Amazing design and assembly. I never quite comprehend the speed you manage to do this work. 

I do not like planking ships boats, such a pain. You’ve done a very nice job of it.

Just a thought: I did the Flemish coil thing on a few models (including Granado) then learned they were seldom used on working ships. I’ve since preferred natural rope coils as a more, well, natural look as I did on my Cheerful. 

Looks pretty white to me.

I have models with holly decks that are still quite white even years later.

Really like the display, exceptional work on the model especially the ships boats, well done BE!

Great work Rusty!  Sorry about the Covid, hope you’re better soon. 

As Chris points out, his kits are designed for a broad range of skills to build. Tapering of the stem could lead a modeler to far more problems that it’s worth. I’m not sure the worth of frequently pointing out small variances in a kit that make little difference to most. It’s perfectly understandable why the instructions would not suggest this modification.

I have completed the hull for Chris’ Flirt and in fact I did taper the stem, because I was reasonably comfortable doing it. At this scale, unlike the stem on my Winchelsea, it’s barely noticeable. 
 

Let kits be kits.

We’ll done and beautifully built Rusty. Another fine model!

Allow me to offer my expert opinion on the topic, based on my extraordinarily deep experience and expertise in building wooden models from a multiple manufacturers, expertise that is known far and wide throughout the modeling industry and is an unquestioned source, though I don't have a cool name like 'stargazer'

Cool, it looks nice.

🤣😂🤣

You’re going to need a bigger room😊

Printed and added to my build notebook.  Thanks Chuck.

Always great to have another Glenn on board, especially with the correct spelling with two n’s.  Welcome!

Thanks for sharing this!

1 hour ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Well done on the moldings.

Thank you, it’s one of those things that now that I’ve done it I know I could do it better.  Move on Glenn, move on.😂

1 hour ago, Rustyj said:

This was a pleasant read

I appreciate you saying so Rusty. I do try to make the posts entertaining and possibly informative. 

Finished up the port gallery, other than the singled roof which comes next. Replaced all the column caps on the starboard side with slightly wider ones like these. Forgot to get a photo with the female figure, she fits without needing extra shoulder room. I did however, with due apologies to her, have to sand a bit of her butt to get a nice fit into the overhang. Sorry lady.