glbarlow

Well this is pretty cool. I’m honored to have kit number 1 of Vanguard Model’s HMS Flirt Master Shipwrights Edition  

Thanks Chris for including the nice lasered board!
 
Everything inside the box is such high quality. I’ve never seen so much boxwood. Very nice!

Admiral Cochrane also approves 

Well this is pretty cool. I’m honored to have kit number 1 of Vanguard Model’s HMS Flirt Master Shipwrights Edition  

Thanks Chris for including the nice lasered board!
 
Everything inside the box is such high quality. I’ve never seen so much boxwood. Very nice!

Admiral Cochrane also approves 

Well this is pretty cool. I’m honored to have kit number 1 of Vanguard Model’s HMS Flirt Master Shipwrights Edition  

Thanks Chris for including the nice lasered board!
 
Everything inside the box is such high quality. I’ve never seen so much boxwood. Very nice!

Admiral Cochrane also approves 

The basket is next level, I agree with Yves, now you need carved wooden herrings 😂🤣

The basket is next level, I agree with Yves, now you need carved wooden herrings 😂🤣

The basket is next level, I agree with Yves, now you need carved wooden herrings 😂🤣

Now you’ve set the standard for the rest of us. Really exceptional job of it!

Post 29


 
A Basket for Fifie.


 
Still waiting for stuff to arrive to complete Fifie, so looking around for something to work on.


 
One of the additions that caught my eye when researching the subject is the large woven baskets used to lift the Herring catch out of the hold.


Landing the catch
There are called crans and have a specific and approved measure for holding a given quantity of herring.

Their size was regulated and standardized by government decree as a legal measure.

The 1832 Act set the cran at 30 inches high, the diameter at its widest 21.9 inches and at the base 18.9 inches –


 
I scoured the internet for something suitable to no avail, so I started to think about how I could reproduce these for display purposes at 1:64 scale.

 
The answer came in the form of an unlikely source – the centres out of the mast hoops supplied by Chuck for the Cheerful build.


6370(2)
The centres form the base with a series of holes drilled around the circumference, 0.5mm ø brass wire is used for the frames.

 

6371(2)
0.1mm line is used for the weave.

 

6375(2)
The brass rods are metal primed.

 

6379(2)
The finished basket.

The completed item measures 12mm high x 10mm diameter at the top. This equates to a size of 30” x 25”.

 

6386

6393

6389(2)
I’m not sure that my crans would pass muster by the Scottish Fishing Authorities, but they are pretty close for scale.


 
 
B.E

 
29/07/20

 

Cannon Rigging contd.
 
Starboard battery finished!  Once I'd got myself sorted out on the port side it took much less time to complete the second set of guns. Real production line stuff - instead of completing one gun at a time I did all the breechings, then all the blocks, then all the frapping and so on.  Much more efficient if a little tedious doing 50 blocks at a time, for example.
 
Here's the result:
 




 
I've temporarily refitted some of the deck furniture just to see how she's looking, but I'll probably remove some of the snaggable items such as deck pumps until later in the build.
 
 
Well, it took just over a month but I must admit it was worth it. I really do appreciate Glenn, Tim and Maurice persuading me (against my better judgement, as I saw it) to rig all the guns. I honestly didn't think I could make an acceptable job of it, so I'm very grateful I was persuaded otherwise.
 
I love this forum!
 
Next I think I'll fit the rudder, then get on with shaping the spars.
 
Derek 

Yay, Flirt is on the way

Glue by the gallons...🤪

I'm sure there are lots of opinions. Personally I've never cleaned the char from those. The glue will hold with the char there, it's somewhat a myth that it won't. I'd be more concerned about altering the fit if I sanded the bulkheads where they fit to the frame. You really want a tight fit. Sometimes you might have to sand a little to get that fit, but not to remove the char.

He hasn’t faired the hull yet, I imagine most of it will disappear then. 

I just found your builds, and I am most impressed! I will learn a lot from them.

Yay, Flirt is on the way

I always look at the end of the section I'm working on, if I know what it's supposed to look like when its done its easier following the instructions to get me there. As others noted the first planking serves only as a base for the second.  Be comfortable sanding the heck out of it and using wood filler as necessary. The smoother that base becomes the easier and better looking is the the 2nd planking.
 
Think through any tapering you might need to do on the 2nd planking, better yet look at BE's and James builds, they've done one or two so steal, I mean learn whatever you can from their build on the second planking - even if its not in the words you'll see things in the photos. Believe me I'm doing that with my first scratch build in Cheerful - I have 4 particular build logs I look at, only at the post and pages that are at and just after the step I'm on. That's the best thing about this forum, you're not alone. Stealing, I mean adopting the best practices of others is how we all get better. If all else fails leave the area a few up from the keel and below the curve of the side until last. If you have to fill it in, fill it in a place where you can't see it when it's sitting on the shelf. Don't tell anybody I told you that, the perfectionists just fell off their chairs. Me I never make a mistake, that I can't hide.
 
I'm a big fan of @chris watton and Vanguard Models, I'm first in line (at least in my mind) for his shipwright version of HMS Flirt and already have HMS Speedy. I believe you chose wisely, not only because of the superb instructions but because Chris is a world class designer. AND he's on this forum so you can always ask the guy who designed or his ace master builder @James H any question.
 
Here's my modeling maxim: It won't all go perfect, mistakes are a part of the process. The best fun is to Adapt, Improvise, Overcome. Clint Eastwood borrowed that quote from me, no wait - I stole it from him. Have fun, power through any frustrating moments, get to the other side and enjoy your work.  That's my whole list of platitudes for the day, I'm all out now.

Yay, Flirt is on the way

All UPS shipping for pre-order Flirts done. According to UPS, all US customers should receive by end of day Thursday, and for the UK, tomorrow.

Glue by the gallons...🤪

I don't think any more needs to be said. As you noted there were many variations and many conversions, its not a military vessel subject to exacting standards, just a simple fishing vessel. I would think it would be easy enough for a modeler to modify the size of the steering house to what suits them and be not less or more accurate than the design.  I would have thought this was long resolved and fairly simple to follow.
 
I agree, this is not the place to debate the merits of wheelhouse design.
 
Moderators are welcome to delete my post. I don't mean to be argumentative, just a bit frustrated we can't seem to accept the model for what it is - a model.

50 meters?😳

In my last post I said if my model had 3 sides the third side would be better.
 
Turns out I elected to prove that point. After finishing the port side I looked to finish the remaining 4 rows on starboard. I was already concerned because I had a thin spot where I had over-sanded. I looked, thought about it, looked some more, shook my head a few times, looked again, thought about it. Then ripped off the whole side (after doing two more rows, only two from being finished) all the way to the bottom of the wales, including those first two rows I’d put on multiple times already.
 

 
So I did the starboard side again, all 10 rows including the drop plank (which fortunately Chuck provides a couple of extra). I’m much happier with the result, I will not be seeing if I get better if my model had four sides. There are still imperfections, but I’m wrapping that up as character and the acceptance that as I am an imperfect person, so then should be my ship.
 

 
Here, at least for me, is what I found made the difference. It may seem small but in my work I found it to be important. First, as I mentioned at the beginning of the log I had no experience ripping planks prior to starting Cheerful. Now with the help of others and doing a lot of it I’ve gotten better. The key difference now is I can rip planks a consistent thickness. I’ll show what my steps are in a future post. It’s not that they were wildly different in fact all measured 3/64th with my digital caliper. But as I mentioned the difference in millimeters ran from about 1.18 - 1.32. Clearly that’s not much but it meant more sanding to get them evened up, hence the thin spot.
 

 
Secondly, I determined I was happiest with thicker planks. With plank bending the thickness wasn’t a problem - so I cut a batch of about 48 planks (enough for the remaining rows on the bottom too) at about 1.38. - almost 1/16th thick.  With them all being much closer to the same width and thicker I got better results with much less sanding. This is probably because I’m just an average modeler and certainly because in my life I’ve now single planked three sides of a ship, but it’s what worked.
 
This may all seem obvious to most, my discovery is that if I’d only measured it using imperial, they were all 3/64ths, perhaps my digital caliper may not be as precise in imperial as it should be. By cross checking that in millimeters, and the variance in thickness that showed, sent me on an unrecoverable need to start the starboard side over. And here I am. I’m really hoping I’ve solved this. It would be much more difficult to rip off the bottom rows, I don’t want to do that again. In case you’re wondering - it wasn’t fun.
 
Now I get to figure out why a square tuck is actually a triangle - this may take a while. Oh, and I’m going to need more 3/16ths wood for the deck…:-)

Nice, but after Vanguard too big for me.  Fortunately I think we’ll see Sphinx first. I can call it Royal Glenn.

Send me your bottle of Macallan 25, I’ll burn some boxwood and let you know...

I'm sure there are lots of opinions. Personally I've never cleaned the char from those. The glue will hold with the char there, it's somewhat a myth that it won't. I'd be more concerned about altering the fit if I sanded the bulkheads where they fit to the frame. You really want a tight fit. Sometimes you might have to sand a little to get that fit, but not to remove the char.