glbarlow

50 meters?😳

50 meters?😳

Exactly right. Hard to explain what’s best, generally the least possible for a tight dry fit.  I needed some meat left so I could sand it smooth. 
 
Your drawings show that very well. Thanks for sharing those.
 

Nice, but after Vanguard too big for me.  Fortunately I think we’ll see Sphinx first. I can call it Royal Glenn.

Thanks for all the great comments! I do know that a healthy number of kits in a new range is around 12, and if and when I reach this number, I will be very happy.
At the moment, I have another 11 definite kits in my 'Future Kit Developments' folder, all complete with bought and paid for plan sets for each (including Royal George).
 
I am thinking for the larger kits, two versions may be the best way to go, due to material costs. Standard versions would have Tanganyika planking (I must stress I have very high quality tang, not the crap we usually get) and basswood or walnut wood laser cut parts, and 'Premium' versions will have the pear  planking and laser cut parts - and perhaps boxwood 'Master Shipwright' versions made strictly to order.
 
But this is a while away. Right now, Flirt release is imminent (I am very happy with this kit), all printed materials, manual, plans and box labels, arrive tomorrow (was promised last Thursday, but due to a lot of people still furloughed, they took longer than their quoted time), and I am promised the new size shipping sleeves next week, too.
 
I am currently having a full suite of 64th scale cannon barrels 3-d printed and then cast in black resin (100 of each initially) of 9, 12 (2 sizes), 18, 24 and 32 pounders. These should cover all future kits (except for carronades). Right now, I am working on the royal yacht, line drawings for profiles and mast and rigging plans - these do take a while to do, but need to do them before making the masts, yards and adding the rigging to the prototype.
 
And that's where I am up to..
 
Oh, one more thing. I can get flags produced, but this is an area I know little about. If someone could give me sizes and correct colours for the era (1750-1815), I could also offer these...

Thank you. Yes the yellow cedar with wipe on poly produces a nice color. I’m Always surprised at how much the wop adds to the wood, and to how smooth the cedar becomes with sanding.
 
Thank you for saying so.  Actually the imperial measurement is still 3/64ths on my calipers.  The amazing thing to me is how much variance, the 1.18-1.32mm, is still 3/64ths. The finish is Wipe On Poly, it really adds to the wood. 
I appreciate your comments. I feel like I give myself ample problems to have to think through 🤣

Those are good drawings and show what I inadequately was trying to say. 
 
My comment though is don’t be drawn in by the sharp angles shown. It is a feel thing, as I mentioned for the most part it’s more about knocking off that top back edge. I see no need for a hard angle. 
 
I actually tried to bevel one using my Byrnes sander.  It did no go well. 
 
btw, I don’t have an endless supply of cedar. Pretty sure I’m going to have to order more. I’d just rather be happy with the result. 

That’s a good idea. 

I’m a bit hesitant on doing this. There are so many different ways and no doubt better ways I’m not sure my new experience is worth sharing. I don’t want my log to become a debate platform for alternative practices. I may just go about my new found method quietly sawing away. 

Thanks BE, i appreciate your saying so. Indeed it is a nice model. Hopefully I’m still saying that after I sort out the square tuck. 

Thank you. Yes the yellow cedar with wipe on poly produces a nice color. I’m Always surprised at how much the wop adds to the wood, and to how smooth the cedar becomes with sanding.
 
Thank you for saying so.  Actually the imperial measurement is still 3/64ths on my calipers.  The amazing thing to me is how much variance, the 1.18-1.32mm, is still 3/64ths. The finish is Wipe On Poly, it really adds to the wood. 
I appreciate your comments. I feel like I give myself ample problems to have to think through 🤣

Don’t muddle my brain with new ways, I just got comfortable with this one😜 I’m comfortable this method, done correctly, produces planks with less than .1mm variance. Hard to beat that.
 

Nice, but after Vanguard too big for me.  Fortunately I think we’ll see Sphinx first. I can call it Royal Glenn.

Those are good drawings and show what I inadequately was trying to say. 
 
My comment though is don’t be drawn in by the sharp angles shown. It is a feel thing, as I mentioned for the most part it’s more about knocking off that top back edge. I see no need for a hard angle. 
 
I actually tried to bevel one using my Byrnes sander.  It did no go well. 
 
btw, I don’t have an endless supply of cedar. Pretty sure I’m going to have to order more. I’d just rather be happy with the result. 

That’s a good idea. 

Thank you. Yes the yellow cedar with wipe on poly produces a nice color. I’m Always surprised at how much the wop adds to the wood, and to how smooth the cedar becomes with sanding.
 
Thank you for saying so.  Actually the imperial measurement is still 3/64ths on my calipers.  The amazing thing to me is how much variance, the 1.18-1.32mm, is still 3/64ths. The finish is Wipe On Poly, it really adds to the wood. 
I appreciate your comments. I feel like I give myself ample problems to have to think through 🤣

Post 30:  Eyebolts and Cleats
 
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days.  I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.

It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method.  This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course

These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill.  For bolts with a ring.  For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt.  Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.

For the gun tackle eyebolts  again a 1 mm drill was used.
 
Here is a picture showing the  the deck eyebolts

There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
 
John
 
 
 

Those are good drawings and show what I inadequately was trying to say. 
 
My comment though is don’t be drawn in by the sharp angles shown. It is a feel thing, as I mentioned for the most part it’s more about knocking off that top back edge. I see no need for a hard angle. 
 
I actually tried to bevel one using my Byrnes sander.  It did no go well. 
 
btw, I don’t have an endless supply of cedar. Pretty sure I’m going to have to order more. I’d just rather be happy with the result. 

Those are good drawings and show what I inadequately was trying to say. 
 
My comment though is don’t be drawn in by the sharp angles shown. It is a feel thing, as I mentioned for the most part it’s more about knocking off that top back edge. I see no need for a hard angle. 
 
I actually tried to bevel one using my Byrnes sander.  It did no go well. 
 
btw, I don’t have an endless supply of cedar. Pretty sure I’m going to have to order more. I’d just rather be happy with the result. 

Glen,
Your planking is excellent.  Much better than mine which has a few deficiencies but because I was using boxwood and my supplies were limited I could not afford to rip off too many planks!
 
On the subject of beveling - I am sure you know this as your planking is so good but perhaps for the benefit of others over beveling can be as bad as no beveling if you have to sand the hull much.  So I think it needs to be reasonably correct.
 
                               
 
 

That’s a good idea. 

Maybe post your method in the appropriate subforum and then uncheck the notify me of replies 😉. I personally would like to learn how you do it so i could potentially imitate it in the future, but I also understand the hesitancy. Looking forward to seeing the final planking!

Thank you. Yes the yellow cedar with wipe on poly produces a nice color. I’m Always surprised at how much the wop adds to the wood, and to how smooth the cedar becomes with sanding.
 
Thank you for saying so.  Actually the imperial measurement is still 3/64ths on my calipers.  The amazing thing to me is how much variance, the 1.18-1.32mm, is still 3/64ths. The finish is Wipe On Poly, it really adds to the wood. 
I appreciate your comments. I feel like I give myself ample problems to have to think through 🤣

That planking looks fantastic. I very much enjoy your explanations and I would love to see exactly how you ripped planks.  I was thinking that I would probably start practicing soon on some blanks. I’ve never tried to rip planks from the left of the blade before. I might see if I can build a proper jig/spacer/attachment for that.
 
It’s never too much I always love seeing how people do things and think problems through. 

We’re all just pushing the boulder up a steep hill!
 
Glenn, your planking looks excellent .  If the extra 1/64” helps you, then it’s all good.  It looks like you have a finish on it.  Is that the case?