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About Sonofagun

  • Birthday April 27

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bradenton , Florida
  • Interests
    18th century ships

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  1. Yes, I did assemble the entire keel, stem and aft deadwood and used it to help keep the frame spacing. I think the trickiest part of the hull was assembling the hawse pieces. Hahn’s drawings do a very decent job of preparing the individual pieces. i got very lucky and only had to redo them once! The model is a great deal of fun and will keep you occupied for hours. There were a few times when I would get frustrated and need to take a break. But you get hooked by the bug... If you haven’t purchased THE FULLY FRAMED SHIP MODEL series of books by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, I wo
  2. What a wonderful model! It makes me believe I am looking at a model made when the ship was being built! Love the colors you are using. The carvings are beautiful! Very clean lines. Attractive ship. I can see why someone of your talent would be drawn to modeling her. Great job!
  3. On my Hahn RATTLESNAKE, I placed the first and last whole frame the first thing. Supported them to make certain they are 90 degrees from the frame jig. Then you can place the keel,WITHOUT GLUING IT, To help keep the frame spacing from top to bottom. I don't know if you are already doing this. Just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.
  4. Welcome Torstein! I am sure you are finding there is much to learn in ship modeling. You can learn a great deal by reading the building logs on this site. The members here are terrific and are very willing to help. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you may have. Bryan
  5. Nice, neat modelling -as your usual standard. What size are the loops to control the valves of the faucets on your stove? Fantastic scale!! Nice shot locker in the background, also! Great job. Happy Thanksgiving!
  6. I have every confidence that you will do a brilliant job (as usual)' I would advise not to partake of whisky to calm your nerves during your build as you may end up emptying another bottle and have a compulsion to build another (ship in a bottle) and end up in a vicious cycle! Just kidding. I am looking forward to you facing the challenges of this build! Good luck, Danny! Bryan
  7. This is the picture. Kind of self evident on construction. The support boards , supporting the building board, are 1/2 inch oak. The slotted boards for tilting purposes are 1/8th inch plywood. I put a little bar soap on the upright guides to help them slide better ( the uprights coming up from the base) The base is wide and more substantial with weight to be stable.
  8. I will see what I can do tomorrow. I have never posted pictures on MSW before. I know I will have to 're-size' them. I don't have to report to work until early afternoon. So I will try for the morning. If not tomorrow, then soon. Bryan
  9. I built a movable, height adjustable , swivel top 'table' to hold my building platform. I built it from 2x4s, 2x6s, some 1/8th inch plywood to act as swivel guides to be screwed to the building board, some threaded rod, nuts and bolts, and put it on wheeled lockable casters. It was quite easy to build and serves my purposes very well. It is small enough to easily turn it to whatever direction I need. I can tilt the platform to more easily work on the interior of the model. The one I built, was my 'prototype' , so I can modify it for my next build (if I need to). I'm sorry that I don't ha
  10. Danny, Just got a chance to catch up on your build. Still settling into our new home - not without some major problems. Looks like all my shop equipment made it all right! Yea! I want to tell you how impressive your VULTURE looks! You must be very happy with your results. Cannot imagine you would have any regrets. She is beautiful. Congratulations on your continued accomplishments.
  11. You have to consider actual wind direction and the resulting apparent wind, ( the combined affects of actual wind speed and direction being affected by the speed and direction of the ship ) . In a square rigged vessel , most of the time the wind would be coming over one of the stern quarters. The ship's forward motion would move the flag's free end a little toward the stern from what the actual wind direction would have it go. The harder the wind is blowing, the less affect the forward motion of the ship would matter as the ship can only go as fast as its waterline dictates. (There is a for
  12. Mark, Really nice work! You are advancing quite nicely this go-round! Before you know it, you will be planking and seeing that beautiful ship emerge with its fine lines. Congratulations on reaching this point of the build! Call me crazy, but I think framing is one of the more fun parts of building. What the heck, just being in the shop is fun, right? Bryan
  13. Thanks Danny, for your suggestions on planning my new workshop! You clicked on a few very practical ideas I had not considered. Your build is amazing. Very nice work. I agree with the others, the degree of detail makes the model look like a larger scale.
  14. Danny, Thanks for sharing this finicky portion of the model. I always learn so much from your posts. I will be moving into a new home with a workshop that is more than twice as big as my current place. It Will be 12 x20 feet with 10 foot ceilings. Any pointers? All I have now is keeping my sawdust producing equipment ( saws, sanders, etc) from my finish and assembly area. I also want to thank you for inspiring me to build a stand alone, adjustable height, tiltable work station for my current build. Next build, I will add a gantry to the board. Again, thank you kindly, Bryan
  15. This may be a REAL STRETCH but, any chance the bulwarks were painted red to cut down on night blindness? On modern day boats, the gauges are backlit in red light because a typical white light is a little more difficult for the eyes to accommodate when going back to the darkness of night. Any reflected light from the bulwarks would reflect in red, being easier to then peer into the night. Kinda out there, but, who knows?
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