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  1. Hi I've never coppered a ship before, so I was wondering what put you off - the trickiness of applying the copper, the appearance, or perhaps a preference for natural wood? Derek
  2. Great set of photos LS. Have you had any thoughts about how you’re going to display her long-term? She’d look magnificent in a lit display case. Derek
  3. Wow, that must have been devastating. I'm enjoying modelling so much more now that I'm active on MSW and writing my own logs. I'll certainly learn from your experience and keep offline copies from now on. I'm off to help my wife prepare dinner (steak and fries with a nice red!) so I'll sign off for now. Derek
  4. Take a look at Vane's Speedy log (here). He cleverly saved quite a few strips of boxwood by using a cheaper alternative where it won't show. Well done on the quoting by the way - you picked that up quick! Derek
  5. Thanks, that makes sense. I wonder though, if drag is a particularly American, or relatively modern term? I ask because I can't find it in my dictionary of nautical terms, but that was compiled by the British Admiral Smyth and he died in 1865. Also, I wonder why some ships were designed that way - what are the advantages (and disadvantages) of sitting deeper at the stern? Was the position ever reversed, with ships designed to float deeper at the bows? Derek
  6. Thanks - glad it's helping you. With the first planking I simply eyeballed the taper. Chris explains his method in the build manual, but basically you lay a plank against the preceding one and let it go where it wants, than mark it where it starts to overlap the previous plank. Just give it a reasonable amount of taper from that point to the end - but reduce it by no more than half it's width. The stern is a bit tricky because after the initial few tapered planks that follow the tight curve of the hull, the planks need to get wider again - eventually you need to use triangular stealers to fill the gaps. Hopefully this is clear from the photos. I'm sure you know triangular stealers are not good practice where the planks show, but they're fine in Speedy where they will eventually be covered by copper. Speaking of good practice, when you're quoting someone else you don't need to copy the whole post - it's just as easy to highlight the bit you want and hit the 'quote selection' prompt that comes up, and it makes it easier for others reading the log. Ccoyle's post immediately before yours is a good example. Hope you don't mind me mentioning this, but I used to do the same until someone else pointed out the neater method. I look forward to seeing your log. Derek P.S. Just noticed that you and I have the exact same number of posts to our name. Spooky!
  7. Good luck...a good opportunity to practice edge bending. On second planking, I think I've discovered why some of my planks are a bit 'bumpy ' - I'd not been careful enough in cleaning off excess CA and I think blobs must have hardened along the edges of some strakes. When dry they're hard to see, but it's such an obvious mistake I could kick myself, especially as I know it's one I've taken care to avoid in the past. Must be an age thing! I'm sure it'll all sand out. Derek
  8. Excellent progress so far. I suspect you’ll have overtaken me before long. I was sorry to hear about your accident, but at least it served to illustrate Chris’s great customer service - from what you say it sounds like he replaced the broken parts very quickly. I think you’re right to try edge-bending - it seems the best way to go. Using the gun port pattern to get the right curve was a smart idea, though it’s usually good to over-bend initially as the wood will tend to straighten slightly. Like glbarlow, I find a travel iron works best. It literally flattens the wood, helping to ensure it does bend in a direction you don’t want. Derek
  9. After a break during which I've spent more time on my pinnace build, I've completed a bit more of the second planking. I apologise for the quality of these pictures - I'm not the world's greatest photographer. Apart from anything else, the pictures tend to make the planking look worse than it actually is (honest!😀), especially in the bow area. In reality each strake is lying flat against the hull and tight against its neighbours. The top two strakes are a bit gappy but that doesn't matter as they'll be covered by additional wale planks. The lighting tends to highlight the bumps and dips, but these should sand out. As you can see, the second planking will require a fair degree of sanding in any case, to remove the saw marks that are prominent on several planks - my only slight criticism of the kit materials. Overall the edge bending technique is working well. As for tapering, I decided not to rely on eyeballing. Instead, I measured the distance from the underside of the first two (wale) planks to the keel at various points on the hull and divided by the number of planks needed at midships. As the hull is fairly regular this distance was the same for several frames fore and aft of midships - as you might expect, tapering was only required for a short distance in the bows and stern. The measurements in these areas gave me the width of planks at various points and hence the tapering required. Chuck explains this much better than me in various tutorials on MSW, including in the articles database. Here's what a plank looks like after tapering and edge bending. The little Veritas plane also makes chamfering the edge of the plank easy (before bending), helping planks sit snuggly together on curved areas of the hull. In the end I decided to go with medium gel CA for the second planking. A bit scary, but I've found if I'm careful and just apply the glue a couple of inches at a time, I can get good adhesion without getting the stuff all over the front surface of the planks. I'm approaching the point where the remaining strakes will be covered by copper sheathing, at which stage I should be able to proceed more quickly. Looking ahead to that stage, it's just struck me how much the waterline diverges from the line of the keel. This close-up of the hull from the manual shows just how non-parallel the waterline and the keel are. I'm sure there's a proper nautical term for this, but the result is that there's much more copper in the stern than the bows. Marking the waterline will be an interesting exercise. Onwards and upwards. Derek
  10. Thanks LS, much appreciated. However, carpentry at 1:24 scale is surely much easier than the 1:200 you have to work with on your Victory model. Derek
  11. Me too. This was a project a couple of years ago. Sorry. I'm getting off-topic. Derek
  12. Many thanks for the likes. Thanks Chuck. I'm trying to be more precise in my work - measuring angles properly and tweaking templates 'til they fit, for example, rather than just eyeballing things. Bit more progress on inboard details, completing the decorative frames, making the little step in the cockpit for lazy officers, and fashioning the various knees. As before, I made the unpainted items from spare boxwood, using the kit-supplied pieces as templates. I cut out the shapes roughly on the scroll saw and finished with swiss files and sandpaper. The trickiest piece to fit was the larger knee in the bows - due to the curves in that area the back edge needed considerable chamfering to get it to sit neat and square. I pre-drilled the hole for the ring that sits on the knee as I felt it would be more awkward once it was fitted. As before, the pinnace continues to provide welcome relief from second planking on Speedy! Derek
  13. Looking good LS. Being nosey, I couldn't help noticing the book on the Night Sky beside your workbench. You're not an astronomer as well are you? Derek P.S. I also notice your bench is considerably tidier than mine - probably explains why you are able to make such quick progress!
  14. Great progress - you're as fast as Chris Watton! I particularly like your coamings. Beautiful. Derek

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