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Everything posted by JohnB40

  1. I've found sitting down to work on my build to be uncomfortable,bad for circulation and leaving me with neck/back aches from bending over. To overcome this I bought a adjustable height keyboard riser (27"x 12") from Amazon. I find it far more comfortable standing to work and can adjust the model to the height suitable to what part I'm working on. I clamp my building board to the riser. I have also made another board which the deck lays on and allows me to to turn the model over and work on the bottom end.
  2. This is a forum for model ship building...Please let us leave politics off the forum,there are other venues available for that purpose.
  3. Danny, You have achieved a rare thing in life....Friends and great respect from just about every part of the globe. I have greatly enjoyed all your projects and posts. God speed, John
  4. Peter, The construction on your Confederacy looks great. I'm looking forward to viewing future progress. John
  5. Thank you Jaager and Bill for your replies and advise. After posting, I tried bonding with PVA the pear trim to basswood scraps with acrylic painted and stained finish,as well as oil based stain. All finishes had been cured for months. I left all clamped for 24 hours .The oil based stain had the worst adhesion,I could pick it apart with light pressure from my finger nail. The acrylic paint and stain samples adhered a bit better,but the bond was still not that strong. The answer is as you suggested. I will have to cut blue masking tape to 1/16" wide strips and mask the hull where the trim is needed to be placed. I will deal with the photo etched parts when I get to that point. The M.S. Confederacy supplied wood is all basswood,which really needs stain and paint. I have never run into this before as all my previous kits were supplied with much nicer wood that just needed a finish coat of poly when all assembly was finished. John ,
  6. Greetings to all, A question concerning my Confederacy build...What effect will a stained or painted hull have on the bonding strength of adding wood trim and brass PE parts? I have finally milled some pear planks which I would like to use in their natural colour for the wales,these would have to bond to the basswood stained hull. Searching on the forum and on line I get conflicting views. I would think using a water based stain would give a better adhesion surface than oil based,but I prefer oil based as water based is far more opaque and tends to lift the grain. Any advise on types of stains,adhesive and techniques would be greatly appreciated. John
  7. Hi Dirk, I'm glad to see you return to the Confederacy build. The pear wood looks stunning. Now that the cold wet weather has curtailed most outside activities,I am back at my workbench working at my usual snails pace on my Confederacy. Now that you,Bossman and Peter Bloemendall have active build logs,I hope encourages me to forge ahead with construction and update my log.. On another note,I noticed on your instruction sheet the red "NOTE!!! IMPORTANT NOTE!!! concerning the fairing cap has left me somewhat confused. My MS instruction book makes no reference to this. Could you please post the photo referred to in the warning? Regards, John
  8. Hi Cristian, Very nice build of the Confederacy. I hope mine turns out as well. I look forward your next project. Bonne Annee. John
  9. 67 year old eyes here. I find myself using an Optivisor (with the small add on lens) quite a lot on other tasks besides model construction,as essential as socks as far as I'm concerned. Real glass is a must. I have an old General Tools pair from the last century in the garage. The plastic lenses have some scratches but I still use them for work out there. When I'm not using either pair,I always place them with the visor part in a gallon Ziploc bag to keep dust etc off the lenses.
  10. Whilst I am not retiring from model ship building,my current build will probably be my last. I chose Model Shipways Confederacy because of this. I figured the size and somewhat complexity of the kit would take a fair bit of time to complete. I also decided to spread the construction time out,I work on it in fits and starts,interchanging with my other interests. I really don't have the room for the finished model except on my work bench any way. I often look at all the stuff I have accumulated in 67 years including rolling tool boxes of Snap-On tools from my 30 odd years of restoring Jaguars and say to my wife "don't give it away,you paid for half of this". I have given away 3 of the ships I've built to friends and hope the ones my wife doesn't want to keep will go to appreciative homes.
  11. I have also found hobby and craft shops are limiting their selection and stock on blades. Many on line charge a lot in shipping fees,making the final price really expensive. I recently came across https://widgetsupply.com/ They have a good selection of Excel blades and other supplies. I have placed a couple of orders with them,which arrived promptly (same state),with reasonable shipping rates.
  12. Hello Christian, Very nice work on your Confederacy. I am also building the frigate,although at a much slower pace than you. I was at my library's bookstore yesterday and spotted an old book on the shelf "Sailing Ships of War 1400-1860" by Dr Frank Howard,for two dollars. I bought the book and when I got it home I noticed something familiar about the ship on the cover art. Sure enough it was a painting of "The Continental Frigate Confederacy (32 guns) and HM ships Orpheus (32) and Roebuck (44) off the Virginia Capes,14 April 1781". It was painted by Geoff Hunt. I thought you might find it interesting,especially the hull colours. Regards, John
  13. I saw this in the Guardian...I hope the link works. https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2019/oct/14/restored-19th-century-ships-figureheads-to-go-on-display-in-plymouth
  14. Hi Glen, I was at my library's book store this morning and purchased a book on Charleston during the civil war. There is a chapter on the ironclads attack on Fort Sumter. Here are a couple of pictures of the Keokuk from the book.....
  15. I have used a soldering iron type of plank bender and a compact hairdryer for plank shaping in my builds. I have had my iron type for nearly 20 years of reliable service. When I had to form quite a few planks for the bow of the Confederacy,I remembered GaryKap's note in his log about using a one pound coffee can/tin ( a hard thing to find in this 12 oz world) for the 6" radius. Attached the can to my work bench. Soaked the planks for 10 minutes in a tall jar. Clamped one end of the planks to the can and using the bender worked them around the the can until the point where they matched the curve + a bit for spring back. I then clamped the other end at that point. Finally used the hair dryer to completely dry the plank. The can also heats up and drys the opposite side. I also use the electric iron to twist bend the planks for the stern runs. Wet the planks, clamp to bulkhead at the start of the run,heat and form to shape required.
  16. Stunning work Danny....... I'm a retired Jag mechanic,so I have had a long love/hate relationship with V12's. I used to go to the Reno air races and there is nothing like the sound of a Merlin hammering full throttle overhead.
  17. Hi Dennis, I can't believe I have somehow not found your build of The General till now. I have enjoyed catching up,very nice work. I have read books on the "chase" and it is interesting to see a detailed view of the locomotive. John

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