JohnB40

Hi Mike, Great research,you are becoming quite an expert on the Japanese Imperial Navy. I'm looking forward to following your build log on this ship.,

Regards, John

Hi Jerry, The square nuts were stamped on small sheets of black fiber board. If they are missing,Model Expo will send you replacements. They have very good customer service.

Stunning!

Outstanding ,Mike. Looks as if my finger would get wet if I touched the base.

Hi Walrus Guy,

Instead of painting the letters I have used dry transfer decals with good results. I used Dulcote to fix in place and protect after applying. Make sure you order enough for Confederacy in the right size with some for possible mistakes. These are the ones I used...

https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/MG703

Mike, Stunning piece of modeling once again. I find it unbelievable when I reference the scale to the Tamiya jar. I'm looking forward to viewing your destroyer diorama.

Good save,WG. The repair will be undetectable.

Hi WG,

I like the colors of your upper works. I posted the painting  of the Confederacy on the forum awhile ago. When I came upon it,I had already painted my upper works black or I might have used the color scheme as you did. How authentic it is,I guess we will never know for sure,but it sure looks great on your construction. It looks like the quarter galleries where painted the same. My Confederacy proceeds at a glacial pace,I don't update my log as I live in a remote rural area and our satellite internet is one step above dial-up. A photo uploading is like watching paint dry. Keep up the fine work.

Very nice construction indeed.

I made this a while ago,works well in confined areas

Hi Mike, Looks like another miniature masterpiece in the making.

Mark,

Thank you for for posting this,I 'm looking forward to part 2.

1 hour ago, king derelict said:

Hi OC

Got to have a Strong British representation. I have a Whippet and a Tadpole also to strengthen the line.

Was that at Bovington. While I was researching on the web I found some photos of a Mark IV in a museum with a sign next to it saying :Closed" which intrigued me. It must have been great to have seen the inside. Bovington is on my "must visit" list

Alan

I grew up in Dorset,not many miles from Bovington. When we were young my cousins/pals and I would ride our bikes over to the museum which then wasn't so large ,a lot of the tanks were parked outside,especially the great war ones. We could climb on them and if I remember correctly could go inside a MK 4,if not then we had access when they were first moved inside. There was one,I believe a MK 2 used at Arras,which was riddled with AP rounds and small calibre shells. you could see where some of the projectiles went clean through both sides. The MK 2's were training tanks and only their sponsons were armored.  During the invasion threat in 1940,the local stories stated these tanks were transported to local important cross roads and used for defense with their 6# guns. Bovington is well worth a visit.

Thank you for your replies gentlemen. With multiple layers of raw sienna wash over the base coat,I got a result I am happy with.

Jaager,I'm afraid my carving skills are too rudimentary for the figurehead and transom figures. I wish Syren's resin example was still available. I'm sure everyone who is constructing (or has) the Confederacy would have liked to throw "Marvin the martian" overboard and replace him with Chuck's.

Greetings to all,

I'm in the process of sorting out the cast parts like the figurehead. I need advise on how to paint the castings to look like a reasonable facsimile to wood.  I have started with a  coat of Tamiya primer,followed by a base coat of Tamiya (spray can) of deck tan. I have tubes of artists acrylic in colours like raw sienna,brown and yellow ochre etc.  Any help with techniques and colour mixes to achieve the "wood look" I'm looking for would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

John

12 hours ago, liteflight said:

yer matelot hated to serve in a teak- built ship as the splinters were certain, rather than likely, to cause sepsis.

California's redwoods have a similar characteristic,even small splinters will cause inflammation within 24 hours.

One word describes it .....Exquisite

On the subject of Fowlers traction engines,here is a photo (from The British Tanks 1915-19 by David Fletcher) of an 1899 armored traction engine with armored trailer for transporting field guns. There were 3 trailers  in the train. The heat in the cab must have been overwhelming.

She looks great Mark. Very nice work indeed.

Well done Mike,that is some outstanding modeling work there.The finished destroyer is miniature masterpiece. I would have had trouble just seeing the parts,even with Optivisors with the highest magnification.

John

 Your Confederacy is looking great,Peter.

 John

I find with photo etch parts,the resist used to protect the area not to be etched,remains in various residue amounts depending on how well the sheet was cleaned (with solvent) after the process. Sometimes the brass sheet or part itself has a anti-tarnish coating.  I use some of my wife's old baking trays to wash the sheet with acetone,rinse in water and then in diluted white vinegar for 15 minutes. I then rinse again in hot water and place it in the diluted Brass Black it several times,removing the scale that forms on the surface before reimmersing. Like Roger,I touch up with black paint and Dulcote.

 John

Bossman,you are being way too critical of your head work. I've enjoyed looking in on your log and think you have done a really fine construction job of the Confederacy.

Thank you,druxey,much appreciated advise. I was feeding from the opposite side of the plate,using the wrong part of the bamboo.

John

Greetings to all,

I received my draw plate form Model Machines today,a finely made tool indeed. I am at a point on my Confederacy build where I have to decide whether or not to trunnel the hull. I do intend to do the deck planks when I get to that point. I have never used a draw plate before,so any advise on the right way to use this tool and suitable wood would be appreciated. I tried using a split bamboo skewer as material and judging by results I'll be spending the winter (my build season), just making trunnels.  I also have no idea of the diameter these would have been on a frigate sized ship.  With the 1:64 scale of the Confederacy an Inch is .015".

John