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druxey

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    Niagara on the Lake, Ontario, Canada
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    Theatre, music, history, cycling, model making.

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  1. Odd. The fine Bellona model in the NMM shows the mizen chains as 2 and 4, not 3 and 3 as above. (The block model indicates the same arrangement.) I do know that Polyphemus, 64 guns, had a small stool for the mizen topmast backstays: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81287.html Perhaps there are other examples to study.
  2. Another solution is to enlarge the holes using miniature broaches.
  3. Update: planking has commenced! The stock for this was sanded to thickness (1/64") using the Byrnes' thickness sander. That done, I needed to stabilize the keel laterally while applying the garboard strakes. These will make the spine rigid once both sides are in place. I had made the mistake of not doing this once on a previous boat and ended up with a laterally curved keel. Not nice. The twist on the plank 'blank' was done using water and the heating iron. Once it had set, the width at different points was marked, the plank removed and trimmed. It was then glued in p
  4. Bruce: They will be, very shortly! After the shell is removed, a keelson will also run along the tops of them.
  5. Very neat and nice work, Tomek! I always enjoy seeing less modeled subjects.
  6. So, next was to disassemble things and wax the plug. The grooves for the five frames were waxed using a micro-applicator. Replacing the spine on the plug, I shaped the transom. By filing it to shape this way, the shape and changing bevel is automatically correct. A problem I had with a previous boat was that the keel bowed slightly sideways because there was no groove on the plug. I carefully sighted along the boat and added temporary pins to ensure that it was straight. Finally, the boat is ready to plank! I've been preparing leaves of Castello 1/64" thick
  7. The issue is, whether you are a pro or amateur, saw meeting flesh does not discriminate!
  8. I see you are using a watchmaker's slotting file, Richard. A great tool to have but, may I suggest, not he best tool for cutting scores. Lay the frame flat, as you have done (after marking out accurately) and, in the case of the upper sill, make a downward vertical cut using a very well sharpened chisel. Turn the frame around and make a series of shallow paring cuts to form the score. For the lower birdsmouth make the first vertical cut across the middle of the score, then pare away at an angle toward the middle from each side. Practice on scrap first to get the technique down.
  9. One often is boxed in by thinking 'If the original was metal, I have to use metal to make it too.' No, you don't. Tape is one solution suggested above. Another is very thin card strips, prepainted. I've often used them and a neat joint is easy. Overlay the ends, then cut through both with a very sharp blade to butt join them. Drilling for an eyebolt in card is easy as well.
  10. Well, for instance, fitting the garboard accurately at bow and stern is much simpler with two planks. One can focus on a good fit at the forefoot and deadwood separately without concerning oneself with overall plank length. Trimming both pieces last to get a neat butt is comparatively easy.
  11. Castello (sp) is a South American hardwood that is a good substitute for true boxwood (buxus). Also sometimes called Bermuda boxwood, Castello is a paler yellow than true boxwood when cut, but mellows in color with age.
  12. Just to clarify the above: the two 'slices' together make up a frame pair. However, in some cases (this will drive you crazy) the slices were separated by small chocks to allow more air circulation.
  13. If your brain even suggests 'Is this a bad idea?', then chances are, that it is! Use inserts for peace of mind, accuracy and bodily integrity.
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