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druxey

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Niagara on the Lake, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Theatre, music, history, cycling, model making.

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  1. Yup - but you'll never make that mistake again! It's all part of the learning process, so get out the rubbing alcohol to release the glue.... You'll be happy that you re-did this. As you already know, a mistake tends to compound itself if left untreated.
  2. Welcome! And yes, rigging is scary if you've never done it before. However, if you take it slowly and methodically, line by line, it becomes less scary. Like any complex job, break it down into small steps. Also, there's lots of helpful folk available here to answer any really vexing questions you may have.
  3. Also, if you do not have a removable insert, the paint-wet material will stick to the board, and will tear when trying to get it off!
  4. Mike: The insert can be of any material that is the same thickness as the frame. Usually the seams are drawn or painted with a slightly thicker paint than is used on the sail. It is not normally white. Boltropes in this method are glued on using acrylic matt medium.
  5. Is, perhaps, the cleat for a preventer jeer? The jeer over the cap means that the weight is taken under compression - mechanically more sound than suspended on a cleat. As well, the angle of the jeers is a better one when taken over the mast cap.
  6. Mike: the small booklet on making SilkSpan sails from SeaWatch Books will answer all your questions. However, if you wet any form of paper, it will buckle and distort as it dries. Therefore one wets and stretches paper on a frame. It will dry taut and flat. If rewetted (with dilute acrylic paint, for instance) it will stay flat as long as it is stretched until dry. Then one can cut it free and it will not buckle.
  7. The 'over the top' sling arrangement is the logical one from a mechanical point of view, as well as your demonstration of the interference if slung from the back of the mast head.
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