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druxey

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    Niagara on the Lake, Ontario, Canada
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    Theatre, music, history, cycling, model making.

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  1. Interesting and tricky technique! Thank you for sharing this, Kortes.
  2. Usually on merchant craft there were no limber boards or channels above the floors. The drainage channel consisted of notches in the floors on their undersides, next to the garboard. Water flowed along under the frames, along the garboards, to the lowest point in the ship. Bilge water was then removed by the pumps.
  3. That flower pot seems to be 'clogged' up with earth! Sorry, I couldn't help that.
  4. Laminated wood need an odd number of layers (3, 5, 7, etc.), each layer with grain at right angles to the next. Or - well, you've already discovered the result! A simplified frame structure such as shown above will work. It's a bit wasteful of wood, though. Do you have any way of modifying and controlling the humidity in the home? Where I live we need a humidifier in winter and A/C in the summer.
  5. How disappointing! My first suspicion would be that the wood was improperly dried or poorly seasoned. Either that, and/or the log the wood was not quarter cut. In my own experience, wood will move where it wants to. You could try the remedy suggested above, but this may prove to only be a temporary solution. In 'real' boats, wood grain more or less follows the contour of the frame which is built in sections. There are no cross-grained areas. This gives maximum strength, as well as minimizes the problem of warpage. Perhaps you might want to rethink how you are going to construct your model.
  6. That's a very useful 'how to', Frank. Steel wire is a beast to work with!
  7. Lovely work with the brass fittings! Had you considered rolled paper for mast bands, then painting them? Walnut is certainly unsuitable for the job.
  8. The best way, if you have one, is to use a scroll saw with a very fine tooth blade; say 30tpi (teeth per inch). Otherwise notch the blank with a razor saw across the grain at the 'hook' before using a very sharp blade to cut along the grain. The cross-cut will prevent the wood splitting off at the hook as you cut. Clean the cut edges up with a sanding stick.
  9. Well, Bob is almost correct; but once you lick the cotton swab, you don't put it back in your mouth again! Or, if you do, you will only do it once.... I would only add that if you take the time and trouble to restore the model, put them in cases; or they will simply get dusty and damaged again.

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