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druxey

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    Niagara on the Lake, Ontario, Canada
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    Theatre, music, history, cycling, model making.

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  1. Um... I think I'll pass having her clean my models!
  2. Yup, old time manual drafting sets usually had one or more of them. By turning the wheel, you can vary your line thickness. You may want to use a finer emery paper on the insides of the blade tips so that the paint doesn't flow too quickly!
  3. This question came up on another build log. Another way is paint, thinned to just flow, using a bow pen.
  4. I suspect making new frames for the lights would be quicker and less frustrating than trying to get consistent results thinning the existing ones.
  5. One has to experiment with the consistency and viscosity of paint when using a bow pen, but I've generally had good success. I used a fine 1000 grit wet and dry paper on the inside of the tips to make it less likely for a 'glob' to occur. Also, on the odd occasion I didn't like the result, it was easily mopped up with a cotton bud and a little solvent, allowed to dry and done over.
  6. Thanks for the description, Dan. The cutter I had used was the yellow Olfa one. I shall try again!
  7. Very nicely done, Steven. Have you tried using a bow pen for straight lines?
  8. Everything 'sits down' visually very nicely except for those red handwheels. Should they be softened down a little?

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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