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channell

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  1. I'm not drilling them at all; I use various globe/egg-shaped cutting bits with the dremmel. I get an even thickness by holding the pieces in front of a light... after a certain depth is achieved, the thinner the plastic the more light comes through it and you can use that to judge how deep you are cutting. With a little bit of practice, it becomes fairly simple to thin the bulkhead from behind enough to open the windows/portholes and get a very thin/even "frame".
  2. Those are the kit molded windows ground out from behind... I grind out all the plastic minus the "frame" while being careful to not melt the plastic or go all the way through to the exterior bulkhead. Makes for neat looking open windows and you don't have to sand the edges at all.
  3. I'm back to work on my Bismarck, making some progress on prepping the forward superstructure parts for PE.
  4. Just FYI Semore... there are no portholes on the hulls of the Iowa class ships. The kit has holes just above the waterline that are molded the size of portholes but on the real ship they are drain scuttles.
  5. I've got this monster (and CZ PE ) hiding away my stash too... looking forward to seeing it go together!
  6. Wow, congrats Semore! Not a small feat to finish one of these monster kits and your's is one of the best online.
  7. I took the holidays off but it about time to get back to work; here's a YouTube video of my current progress: https://youtu.be/oX-oZJO8Mds
  8. It's not wrong if it works! The only rule in scale modeling is "make it worthwhile to yourself" so you don't end up wasting a crap-ton of money on a project you end up hating... maybe "do your best" and "finish what you started" would be strong suggestions too, if not absolute rules. Everything else is just a tip or idea.
  9. I leave the molding base on the gun so I have something convenient to hold while assembling/painting, then cut it off with a razor saw after I'm done. Otherwise fingers work just fine for me on these kind of guns. I normally aim to get tiny stuff mounted to something temporarily otherwise, either by drilling a hole for a pin to stick into, clamping tweezers or sticking to double-sided tape on a piece of something big enough to hold onto. And yes, a good set of tweezers of various shapes is a must, as is a magnification of some kind (I use an optivisor)
  10. My bucket list: Meet my future great-grandchildren Dive down to the wreck of the Titanic Drink a glass of $10,000 scotch. Spend a night wandering alone aboard the USS Iowa See the eventual completion of Dafi's magnum opus Victory.
  11. Thanks for the kind comments everyone! I dove into the Veteran Models guns on Sunday... little model kits all by themselves: These are the 37mm FLAK Doppel C30's.... Bismarck has 8 of them. Don't think I have ever seen such tiny resin parts (especially with such fine detailing) but they are fun to assemble, albeit time-consuming.
  12. As a matter of fact, yes... they are either too short or the magazine rack is too big so they just don't look right, however. Too bad because it would have actually simplified assembly... instead of struggling to glue the tiny brass triangles in reasonably straight with gaps in between, one could just "pancake" the pieces together and get it perfect with little hassle. Oh well...
  13. 10 total... not too bad I guess. I survived building 65 20mm oerlikons for my Nelson but they were easy compared to these things.
  14. Quick post but it wasn't quick to build 'em: ... and VS the stock kit piece: Man these tiny little guns are A LOT of difficult work for me! The magazine racks on the base are especially nightmarish to put together.
  15. Pretty sure the pulley wheels would be the same grey as the rest of the crane and superstructure...

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