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  1. This thread isn't dead yet... despite going since 2013 without a finished Bissy to show for it. 😅 I've noticed I tend to do the most work on my ships from September to January so maybe I'll make some good progress in the next few months... then again, who knows? I'm not gonna try to force it, just take my time and let the build take it's course. This is a hobby after all! Anyway, some new progress to report; I assembled the aircraft catapults and did a bunch of small touch-up work. I'm generally leaning towards abandoning the instruction order (which would have me working on the forward/aft decks) and working on the lower levels of the superstructure and upwards from there. Anyway, I'll post more progress when I have more to show!
  2. Not much time in my world for the Bismarck lately but slow progress is still being made: I was going to use the conning tower off my old kit but I ended up reworking the new one instead... I want to show the the conning tower with the thick "bank vault" doors open and they just didn't work out all that well on the old one. I also got the PE and paint on the bridge and next layer up as I work my toward the top of the forward superstructure "wedding cake" Since I had the airbrush out also I hit the couple of the Veteran Models AA guns I had previously built... these things are the definition of detail insanity!
  3. I'm not drilling them at all; I use various globe/egg-shaped cutting bits with the dremmel. I get an even thickness by holding the pieces in front of a light... after a certain depth is achieved, the thinner the plastic the more light comes through it and you can use that to judge how deep you are cutting. With a little bit of practice, it becomes fairly simple to thin the bulkhead from behind enough to open the windows/portholes and get a very thin/even "frame".
  4. Those are the kit molded windows ground out from behind... I grind out all the plastic minus the "frame" while being careful to not melt the plastic or go all the way through to the exterior bulkhead. Makes for neat looking open windows and you don't have to sand the edges at all.
  5. I'm back to work on my Bismarck, making some progress on prepping the forward superstructure parts for PE.
  6. Just FYI Semore... there are no portholes on the hulls of the Iowa class ships. The kit has holes just above the waterline that are molded the size of portholes but on the real ship they are drain scuttles.
  7. I've got this monster (and CZ PE ) hiding away my stash too... looking forward to seeing it go together!
  8. Wow, congrats Semore! Not a small feat to finish one of these monster kits and your's is one of the best online.
  9. I took the holidays off but it about time to get back to work; here's a YouTube video of my current progress: https://youtu.be/oX-oZJO8Mds
  10. It's not wrong if it works! The only rule in scale modeling is "make it worthwhile to yourself" so you don't end up wasting a crap-ton of money on a project you end up hating... maybe "do your best" and "finish what you started" would be strong suggestions too, if not absolute rules. Everything else is just a tip or idea.
  11. I leave the molding base on the gun so I have something convenient to hold while assembling/painting, then cut it off with a razor saw after I'm done. Otherwise fingers work just fine for me on these kind of guns. I normally aim to get tiny stuff mounted to something temporarily otherwise, either by drilling a hole for a pin to stick into, clamping tweezers or sticking to double-sided tape on a piece of something big enough to hold onto. And yes, a good set of tweezers of various shapes is a must, as is a magnification of some kind (I use an optivisor)
  12. My bucket list: Meet my future great-grandchildren Dive down to the wreck of the Titanic Drink a glass of $10,000 scotch. Spend a night wandering alone aboard the USS Iowa See the eventual completion of Dafi's magnum opus Victory.

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