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Trafalgarhero

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Everything posted by Trafalgarhero

  1. Try using tin foil. Just print the ensign on a decal and place it on or -if you feel adventurous- paint it directly on the tin foil. Let it dry and then use tweezers to imitate waving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjFmukVDwBs&t=164s(go to minute 16:55)
  2. Fore fighting top. Foremast with its top. Attaching the mizzen mast Bowsprit fitting General stern view
  3. Lids of the gunports. Beams of the waist deck. New skylight New openings on the window of the transom, in order to better appreciate the furnished interior General view of the project Main mast and fighting top. Details of the crosstrees, openings for Jacob's ladder and supports for the mast,
  4. Mounting the gun carriages of the quarterdeck. Window frames of the officers' cabins. Seat of the ratlines and gun carriages of the forecastle New decks in the waist deck Details of the waist deck. Weathering of the hull
  5. Alas! Holiday is over! Back to college and routine, see you in the summer! I leave you with a few updated views of my project...
  6. Correcting the paint lines of the yellow stripes along the gunports. In order to achieve a perfect line I masked the lines a little bit higher and then painted the whole thing black. This method seals any crevices and imperfections, and even if some of the paint leaks under the tape it won't matter, since it is the same color. After dry, I used a flat, pale yellow color, consistent with the era. Here is the old version... And the new one...
  7. World War II british light cruiser HMS Dido. Am I right?
  8. The rudder. I simply did not want to risk it to get it wrong, so first I went for a commercial piece. Sadly, the ones from Artesania Latina, Caldercraft and other model brands are metal die cast, usually the wrong scale or simply too crude. I wanted something very fine and detailed. In the end, I cannibalized an old kit for the rudder's wheel, and the stand and log case are made of styrene.
  9. Making the skylight for the quarterdeck. First, the frame: Securing the clear styrene window to the frame, I used Master Modeler's Styrene Weldener instead of CA glue, since I want the piece to be absolutely clean. Skylight into place
  10. The final carving for the captain's private gallery were tricky to make. After drawing the pattern, I transferred it to a thin styrene strip using carbon paper. Then, with a stencil and a hard tipped pencil, I drew the pattern over the stryene, so it would bump into the other side, finally I glued it to a thicker styrene strip. Here is the result.
  11. The forecaste rail, done. I filled the gaps between the inner and outer rail with epoxy, minding the gunports.
  12. So here it comes a test for my patience. The forecastle bitts along the rails. Again, the bow rail had to be corrected...I guess one of the troubles that involve making a little-known ship is the lack of proper documentation, but there again...here goes nothing! Cutting off the original rail... The bitts, each on one stage of the making process: Styrene strip cut to length, marking the position of the head, first slot filed off and finished bitt, still unpainted. I used a regular triangular steel file. Bow rail: Bitt along the forecastle side rails...eight more to go!
  13. The fore hatch (Something else that I missed in my original design). The decks are wood and plastic, so careful now... Edging and cutting the wooden planks. Cutting away! (the jagged edges do not trouble me, they will be covered by the finished hatch) Making the sides of the hatch with styrene strips. Painted and fitted
  14. Stern and transom decoration. First, the windows and carvings of the stern galleries: Painted sides of the transom balcony. The CA glue, however, fogged the windows of the transom, so I decided to leave a couple of them open, in order to see the furnished interior of the cabin. A Roman Soldier, taken from my old toys box, to complete the stern decoration. First, the back of the figure is sanded off, in order to make it look like a bass-relief. Attaching the ledge on which the statue will be standing Spray painted with gold, with some dry brush strokes in black to enhance the details. Done!
  15. One of the parts I love the most about napoleonic vessels: the beards. Cutting and bending into shape. Lower beards, into position All beards into place. View from port. And starboard
  16. Hatch for the waist deck, next to the capstan. I realized through the blueprints I could not leave the hatch open (My crew my fall into the cargo hold while turning the capstan!). My first intention was to leave it open, in order to see the galley and the stove under the chimney, but I went for realism. Anyway, the stove will be visible through the gunports of the lower deck.
  17. Building of the bow gratings for the latrines or "necessary seats". Figurehead and stem. Cutting the slots for gratings' frame. Gratings and frame, ready for painting Latrines building. These are made with miniature chairs from and architectural model. The back was sawed and filed off and I punched an hole in the middle with a 1/32 drill. Frames and latrines
  18. Plastic quarterdeck base, fitted into place. Wooden planks being glued. Quarterdeck rails, to place hammocks. Quarterdeck planking, painted and fitted. Stern galleries exterior carvings,to match stern balcony. Side rails of stern balcony. Quarterdeck's wooden rails
  19. Sure, here there are: The copper tiles are paper-thick plasticard -cut and placed individually- and modelling putty (this is useful for simulating barnacles and other rubbish that adhered to the hulls. I first spray painted the hull with standard automotive lacquer, and then used dry brush technique to apply Testor's olive green and flat brown, and then rub it with a thinner soaked rag.
  20. Thanks. That is a good idea. My first idea was to make a waving flag, so I made it from plasticard.
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