klaus

Hello Gary,

thank you for your response and your information. My offer is standing, we will see how things evolve. By the way, if you would opt for the kitbash, the DELFTship model is well suited to disclose the deviations in hull shape between the Independence and the kit just by feeding the contours of the bulkheads provided with the kit into the model. Thus necessary corrections are easily identified.

But I have a question with respect to your display case, shown in your post from november 2017. I like that case and the underconstruction very much, its minimalistic design directs the attention of the viewer to its content - the (wonderful built) Victory. I am looking for something equivalent for my Billing Boats Vasa, which is still under construction. So I would especially like to know, where the acrylic case can be purchased. Is it 'scratch-built' or is it configurable and available from a company?

Thanks in advance

Klaus

On 19.12.2017 at 12:58 AM, Ensign said:

I have a request. On a recent visit to Kangaroo Island South Australia the Admiral and I stopped in at American River, it was here that the Sealing Brig Union, captained by Isaac Pendleton from Stonington Connecticut, wintered in the year of 1803. Whilst they were here they built what is purported to be the first ship built in South Australia. The ship/boat was named Independence. A 45 foot Topsail Schooner of 35 Tons, she was built to allow access to shallower waters to aid in the capture and transport of seal skins. She was lost with all hands in 1805.

The people of American River are attempting to build a replica of Independence and this is where I come in. The Admiral informed the volunteers there that I was a model ship builder and we showed them some photos on the Ipad. Oh dear!

They asked me if I would build a model about 3 feet long for them to use in their fundraising efforts. I made no promises but feel that it would be an interesting project. Therefore I'm asking if anyone knows anything about this ship or has any documentation on it or could suggest a model kit that is close enough to be used/modified for the purpose could you please let me know. I will attempt a scratchbuild if necessary but a kitbash would be quicker.

Hello Gary,

this is Klaus from Königswinter, Germany. Since more than 5 years I am a silent but dedicated follower of this site and of some build logs, including your Victory build. Actually, I should introduce myself in the New Member Section. It’s upcoming.

I response to your post with respect to the schooner Independent, see above. I don’t know anything about that ship, nor do I have any idea about a kit which is suitable for kit bashing. But I have a suggestion.

Based on your small plan, I have modeled the schooner using DELFTship. And these are my results (created within some hours). The first figure shows the different views derived from your plan, the second one a stern view of the ship, and the third one the underlying control net. Finally, the last figure shows the contours of the main frame and each one frame in the fore and aft section of the ship, including the bevels and the deck lines.

So, if you decide to go for a scratch build, I can provide Bulkheads (directly from the existing model) or even frames (which requires additional design work) and any other bits and pieces for the build. You don’t need to loft plans and thereby avoid all associated inaccuracies, because DELFTship provides us with a consistent and smoothed lines plan. Moreover, you can easily adjust the DELFTship results and outputs to your special needs.

For rigging and belaying, the chapter ‘The American Schooner’ in Lennarth Petersson’s book ‘Rigging Period Fore- and-Aft Craft’ would provide valuable informations.

Perhaps an exciting joint project is evolving?

Greetings

Klaus

Hi David,

sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but glad be of some help. But I think the defect can easily be corrected. I would sand the faulty block down and fix a piece of wood of appropriate size behind it. Then drill a vertical hole through this block at the forward end of the cut in the bee for the lead of the stay to be rigged later. Done. Black paint will do the rest.

Good Luck.

Klaus

Hi David,

very neat and impressive built.

I am not (yet) a builder of the Victory (lack of time), but I plan to do it after finishing my Vasa project. Have already the JoTiKa manuals and plans and some books, so I follow the various build logs on this site with great interest.

I would like to draw your attention to one point:

In your post #129 from June 6th you show a series of images. I refer to the last one, where you show the bees and the port bee block of the bowsprit. I feel, you made a small mistake, but which will be fatal when you start rigging. In my opinion, you have to flip the bee block by 180 deg around the vertical axis and to shift it back to the after end of the bee. The starboard block (not to be seen on your images) has to be located at the front of the starboard bee and the port block at the back of the port bee, so that the sheaves in the blocks match the cuts in the bees. Moreover, the sheave must be located between the bowsprit and the outer cheek of the block.

The JoTiKa explanations are very poor at that point. If you have the books of McKay, Longridge or Hackney you will find appropriate plans there. If not, I can send you Plans by e-mail (don’t want to violate any copyrights).

Hope I am wrong.

Regards

Klaus