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Yambo

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Everything posted by Yambo

  1. My sails are spinnaker cloth Pete. I'll probably make another set of sails sometime soon out of cotton (maybe a couple to compare different materials) but the current set move her along just fine. You asked me how I bent the sail line tubes - I annealed the tube the same as you did and bent them round a pulley wheel that I had lying around. Flaring the ends was a different matter though and I might have to see if I can borrow a flaring tool for the next ones. I'm reluctant to buy one as it won't get a lot of use.
  2. Hi Pete That would have been one big Bluenose! I have an Emma sitting in my hallway :-) She sails well although I only sail her in the sea having no access to a local lake; I'm building another two or 3 this winter for friends and we'll do a bit of racing.
  3. Absolutely fantastic Ed. Thank you for the masterclass in ship modelling. Like others, I can't believe it has been 6 years but it has never been onerous; indeed it has been a pleasure watching it all come together. Your expertise in all aspects of ship modelling has been a joy to follow.
  4. I've got full size plans for a boat, kayak and stand up paddle board here at up to 18 feet x 5 feet Gaetan. If I can get that size printed in Turkey then I'm sure you could get them in Canada.
  5. for any Brits that are watching this thread then the StewMac router base is available from Woodworks Craft Supplies for £46.40 http://www.woodworkscraftsupplies.co.uk/stewmac-precision-router-base-p-1336.html They say they're having a closing down sale so might be worth a look to see what else is available.
  6. I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!
  7. Merhaba Aydın! I've just found your build log (I've been away from the forum for a while) and you're doing great! I've only made 2 RC boats so I don't have that much experience but I made sure that all internal seams were watertight by using thickened epoxy fillets on the internal seams - along the keel line, the chines etc. I also coated the insides with unthickened epoxy and fibreglassed the outside of the hull - more epoxy. Both boats get a fair bit of use in the summer (I made them for my grandchildren) and both are bone dry inside. Looking at your pictures though I'm not sure how you'd go about filleting the seams, it all looks quite full inside that hull! Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build. I'll keep watching.
  8. They look magnificent Ed! Also congratulations on getting the book published!
  9. Your work never disappoints Karl. I wish you good luck that it all goes smoothly and I look forward to a beautiful build.
  10. That first thin coat of primer is a right pain in the butt isn't it vaddoc! I always seem to have the same problem - hull looks lovely, get some primer on and then get sanding again. At least it shows you where the work is needed.
  11. Like many others I have followed your build from the beginning and have not stopped admiring your exquisite workmanship. Many congratulations on finishing this beautiful work of art. I'm going to miss the updates but I suspect I'll be looking back through the log for inspiration and maybe just to admire your work. Thank you Karl for sharing this build with us.
  12. If I didn't make mistakes I'd be wondering who had made the model. As others have said, we are our own worst critics. You have to remember that a) it's your model, b.) most of the people looking at it haven't got a clue. Your model is excellent! If all you are concerned about are those few things you've mentioned then a lot of us (well, OK, me) had better start over. *Edit* I should have said Skipper that the companies that make kits are not averse to mistakes. I'm currently building an AL Bluenose for a friend. There are lots of errors in the kit. I mentioned a few to my friend who wasn't bothered. He thinks it'll look fine just the way AL designed it. I'm thinking of calling it 'Bluenose-ish' as a protest.
  13. All of the hull panels for this 1:10 model of a CLC Skerry were laser cut from 1mm and 1.5mm ply. Using the plans for the full size boat I re-drew them on AutoCad and saved them on a flash drive. A friend in Marmaris (Turkey) is a sign maker and has a laser cutter in his shop. He usually charges me about one TL a minute of use and the panels took just a few minutes (it was awhile back - I've slept since then. ) The boat was based on stitch and glue construction and I made the model the same way - you can see some of the copper wire stitches holding it together. and the finished boat I made the full size one as well.
  14. I think that for $2000 I'd like a bit bigger cutting area than 250mm x 250mm. At least 305mm (12") would be better even in one direction.
  15. Even Amazon.de is cheaper. I've bought a few tools tools from Amazon.de and the only problem is whether they'll ship to Turkey or not. If they do I can make a considerable saving even with a bit of tax lumped on by the Turks.
  16. I'll give another thumbs up for Midwest kits to start your boat building on Luke. They make nice little models out of the box but if you feel you want to add a bit more to personalise or enhance the model you can usually do so.
  17. Great start Grant! My first and only RC model boat, built for my grandson is an Aeronaut 'Diva' (it was cheaper! ). I covered the bottom of the hull with thin aircraft fibreglass and lined every seam inside with epoxy thickened with microballoons - not the 5 minute epoxy - with a good fillet around where the prop shaft exits the hull. despite quite a few hours in our swimming pool it has stayed completely dry inside. Fibreglassing isn't difficult but when you get to it, allow the fibreglass to sit on the hull at room temperature for a day or so and don't use a brush to spread the epoxy, use a thin, preferably rubber spatula. A brush will possibly open up the weave. But carry on, I'll be watching.
  18. I use the same Swann Morton handles and their No 11 and No 10A blades. I buy the blades in boxes of 100 (unsterilised). I had a lot of problems with rubbish handles for a while before I was able to get the Swann Morton kit.
  19. Beautiful build Matija! I have a question . . . What paint did you use for below the waterline please, and where did you get it? Here in Turkey I have ongoing problems sourcing things like paint of the right colours. Sometimes I find them in the UK or Germany but they won't send them here and sometimes I see in Turkey what will may be OK but their payment methods are 19th century and I have to find a friend with a particular type of credit card. It's an on-going nuisance. I think I have solved my earlier problems with wood as I have found suppliers in Istanbul and Germany so things are improving, but slowly. Thanks.
  20. Haven't you got a cylinder head to make Michael? I love watching you solve your problems and like others greatly admire your talents. But take your time, we'll still be watching.
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