Jump to content

vaddoc

Members
  • Content Count

    1,285
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cambridge, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

3,387 profile views
  1. Thanks Keith! It might seem complex but in reality Carvel planking just needs patience and batens. Clinker will need a bit extra head scratching but more later on, when the planking of the Yawl starts. Not to worry Wefalck, it is great that you all are on board on this journey!
  2. This is wonderful model GL, congratulations! I think the worse is behind us, we ll find a balance soon. An Ancre monograph, this sounds very exciting. After you ve tied the loose end of course...
  3. Indeed Wefalck, this is what I intended to do, leave the planks wider to allow me to do fine adjustments and create bevels, so that the planks would touch edge to edge despite the angle. In practice, this is very difficult to do even at 1:10 scale-at least for me. However, what I do do is sand the high spots on the edge that meets the previous plank so that they meet better, but also sand the other edge to create a fair curve with as few high and low spots as possible-this makes fitting the next plank easier. I forgot to do this on the garboard though.
  4. Hi Noel I do not think so. Indeed, there can be a large difference in width (negligible on length) between wet and dry wood, I ve seen 20% quoted for some woods and the Wood database site mentions that beech has high movement in service. However, one thing that impressed me is that the wood comes out of the steamer hot and pliable but very quickly cools down and actually feels very dry to touch-this takes seconds. Very different to soaking beech in water, the wood still becomes pretty pliable but is soaking wet-dries quickly but takes a few minutes. In any case, the wood is cut to templat
  5. Ok, so both planks got steamed positioned into place. Definitely worth doing, they now follow the hull much closer. The next photo does not capture it well but the plank really has taken the shape of the hull. However, this means that their dimensions changed slightly. Because they sit closer to the hull, they appear slightly longer so a tiny bit of sanding at the bow end was needed. However, after I had pretty much finished screwing the planks in place, I realised that the bow end in both sides did not fit well. I cannot explain this, before ste
  6. Brian, indeed a treat to follow your build. Wonderful work! Looking forward for the rest of the journey.
  7. Many thanks to all for your comments and likes! GL, the planks will accept to be bent up to a point but will not accept to be twisted. This is 2.2 mm beech, a hard and sturdy wood. This plank as well as the garboard has a lot of twist, this is why all these clamps are needed-still the plank does not sit well, it lifts in the middle. Also, I do not trust the frames too much, the plywood proved a poor choice and actually I should have used more frames but I cut corners a bit. I d like to have as little pressure as possible. Even wetting the beech will drastically improve its respons
  8. Bruce thank you for your kind words, it is certainly worth it. After countless attempts, the starboard plank is done but I am a broken man! I ve never had such difficulty producing a plank. It is however a very complex shape and due to the twist along its axis both at the bow and stern, even tiny changes in the shape or even the width of the plank, bring on massive changes to the fit. Some photos to show the end result-both planks were difficult but the starboard one almost defeated me. The planks can be edge bent a little so the gaps will close further.
  9. Time for another post, unfortunately not a lot of progress as I run into difficulties. Moab and GL thank you for your kind words, a pleasure to have you on this journey! After infinite trouble, I managed to produce a half decent port plank. I think I made 3 templates and 4 planks, thankfully the last one was acceptable. This is by far the most difficult plank. It has a significant twist, it needs to fit with the stealer, it is long and narrow towards the bow and it is very easy for the paper pattern to distort. But I also now need to make the star
  10. I must confess I am having too much fun! Risking the Admiral's wrath I did some work today. First I installed the two stealers. The port plank I steamed and fitted was a rejected version, somehow it sneaked in and replaced the correct one. I realised this and found the correct plank on the work bench. I just soaked it in water for a few minutes and then the plank easily bent into position. I just temporarily screwed the planks in place in case they need to be removed to deepen the rabet. Next, I started making the template for the first broad strake. I
  11. Tree nails, thousand of them. They can be made in bulk down to 0.6 mm or even less. These ones are 1 mm thick, in these pots there are about 1000 tree nails. The pieces can be positioned accurately and securely.
  12. Looks fantastic Hakan. This dark shade really lifts the model, I like it a lot. You could consider using treenails for those stringers, would be more secure and easier than glue. Now, if I could take a guess, is your next boat a pilot cutter?
  13. Some more work done, time for another post. I installed both garboards, even after steaming some pressure was needed to get them fully into position. Initially I used 1 mm screws to keep the planks in the correct position and then gradually replaced with treenails. I had to deepen the rabet, at places quite a lot. I am not too happy with the bow end of the port plank, it should be spot on but now there is a bit of a gap. Oh well, a bit of filler never did any harm! Then I moved on to the next plank which I think should be t
×
×
  • Create New...