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vaddoc

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  1. Decoart water based sanding sealer. Humbrol spray primer, grey, red, sometimes white. Valejo acrylics, humbrol enamels (very rarely now). Daler-Rowney System 3 brushes. Consistent very good results. With enamels, I use low odour mineral spirits. With Valejo acrylics, only their medium-different for hand painting and spray. For filler, Elmer's colour changing filler.
  2. Looking good Hakan! I also think the contrast looks good, maybe a coat of pure Tung oil will blend the two nicely-depends how the wood will react.
  3. Dear all Planking is finished! I also trimmed the planks at the transom and shaped the stem. John and Bob and to all that hit the like button, many thanks! Keith, whole heartedly recommended. Thanks Michael, following your post I did quite a bit of internet search. I think it really would be very nice to have a model of the Universal 4 in the engine bay. I am not sure though I can pull this off! We ll see! No idea, thanks for the good wards and indeed, you are spot on right. More i
  4. Welcome and do not worry. Everything eventually falls into place!
  5. From my experience: For dense woods like pear, going a bit across the grain makes no difference, for the loads they ll carry on the model they will be fine. You can laminate two thinner sheets of wood with the grain at 90 degrees so that you can cut in any direction but do not use PVA, the whole sheets will twist horribly due to the water in the glue-use epoxy. Or you can laminate half circles with 0.5 mm strips using epoxy to cut the knees but it is labour intensive, messy and the laminate will be very hard to cut and sand.
  6. But Hakan, haven't you noticed, I only chose the best angles to get pictures! 🙂 Many thanks. Thanks Gary. Now this boat would be ideal to try weathering for the first time wouldn't you agree? And I know just the log to follow. Something to think about... Thanks to all for your likes! Time for an update on the boat. But before that, just to mention I did put a few batens on the Yawl. Oh dear...it will be a difficult planking job with lots of steaming! Also, I think I should reveal my secret on planking. I have 2 little elves helping me!
  7. GL, the differences between the frames as given and the lofted ones are pretty dramatic. Now, this is why we loft before building but with the accuracy in CAD era, everyone's lofting should not be that far apart. Strange.
  8. We really need you fingers Michael, not your files! This is looking proper Moab. Congratulations! The wood jig is a good method.
  9. Indeed Roger. This actually was what the Mediterranean shipwrights were also doing. I have no expertise or knowledge in this matter but what I meant was that, after the frames were produced, whether perpendicular to the keel or waterline or other, these angles still had to be maintained building the boat so the shipwrights would have to know beforehand how the boat would lay for building and how it would go in the water. I assume that those very heavy frames would make sense to keep vertical and not at an angle where they would need pretty substantial support.
  10. I would think: The construction should follow the plans. If a frame is meant to be perpendicular to the keel. it must be placed as such. Even a few degrees off in a long frame will lead to problems. The shipwrights would need to think of a way to get the ship to water but keeping the frames as per plans-perpendicular to the keel. EDIT: or perpendicular to the waterline like my current boat that has a sloping keel or whatever the plans show
  11. Brian, wonderful work! Certainly inspiring and is great fun following your log. I ve never used or even touched styrene but seems a very versatile material. Really, your boat looks seriously good.
  12. GL, I tried to find some info on silk sails but couldn't. Do they make such a difference in performance?
  13. Not too late I hope GL, this is a nice boat! Your sanding bow and method is a great idea, I should have seen this earlier before I make such mess of my frames. I am curious to see how you will laminate the frames. I would think that it would be easier to laminate and then sand the bevels. Also, are you going to use PVA or epoxy? My attempts laminating with PVA faired poorly, the laminate was just not stiff enough.
  14. Valeriy I am late to the party but I just read all 17 pages of your log, to catch up. Truly exceptional work. Too much to take in! The precision of your work is mind blowing.
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