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  1. Take a small piece of plank material, rest it on the frame, slide it down on to the rabet line, cut the bevel so the plank thickness is all in the rabet groove, with the plank piece resting on wood in both surfaces. Do the same for all frames (the angle will constantly change). Connect all the rabet segments you ve cut eyeballing things and/or using pieced of plank material. Rabet done
  2. It might be easier to paint the hull upside down or something may go horribly wrong and the whole thing needing to sand down and re-do. If you paint the hull, it will need sanding and sealing anyway so that means treating it rough. I would finish with the hull and then proceed. For the rest of the build, rest the hull on something that will not scratch it.
  3. Vlad, I ve only just managed to catch up with your progress, you are doing a fantastic job, both your deck and your boats came out great. Some of your photos are truly amazing. You are clearly having too much fun!
  4. Now this is a proper job! Very nice. Looking how long, wide and flat this boat is and how shallow draft it has and with all this armor on top, I can't help thinking that it would twist very easily. The pumps would probably work round the clock to manage leaks.
  5. Nice work Keith. Quick question, these smoothbore guns, were they still firing round balls?
  6. 3 jibs/staysails, one with a boom, 2 sets of backstays, top sail on a yard and a gaff sail with reef lines etc - simples. Hats off to you Spyglass! 😄
  7. Very nice Dick. I only just realised it has a flat bottom. This is a bit unexpected, the Mediterranean sea and especially the Aegean sea can be difficult, I did not know they were using this design back then.
  8. Some more progress, time for another update. Things are getting now a bit complex, I ll try to explain as best I can I have been able to work on and off on the boat so far but this is now becoming increasingly difficult, for the next few months, I ll be working 6 (and a bit) days a week so I expect things to slow down to snail pace. First of all, I decided to lighten the frames significantly. After the planking is completed, I will need to install steam bend ribs in between the frames and simply there will not be enough space for my hand to fit in. So, I cut large pieces off b
  9. Couldn't do this Druxey as it was all covered up by the filler pieces. Maybe it will sort it self out when dry
  10. A bit more work done and time for another update. The boat is progressing very slowly. I cannot work as often as I would like and It takes me a while to remember where I left things, it is a pretty complex boat. Also building (kind of) the Chapelle's boat at the same time is not helping much...Still, some real progress made today. First of all, I printed out the patterns for the bow and stern to check how close to the CAD designs the wood pieces actually are. Happily, they are very close. I then finished the transom. I thought of leavin
  11. Hi Noel I ve been using Rhino for many years. The real objective is to get a smooth (-ish) outer skin. To do this, you need to first define the rabet at stem, keel and sternpost, define the edge of the transom and the sheer line. These are the boundaries of your outer skin (surface of planking). Then draw all your lines, fair them (ask the computer to do it), then choose the most promising and use these to adjust all the others. Then again choose the most promising lines and try to get an outer surface. When you accomplish this, you are pretty much done. You can get any frame of any thick
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