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vaddoc

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Everything posted by vaddoc

  1. Welcome Pannonicus! I have recently been wondering how laminated paper/cardboard might work so I would be very interested to see your work. Looking forward to your log. Regards vaddoc
  2. Welcome Retroship! Have fun building your ship and do start a log! Vaddoc
  3. My dear Druxey, you are very right. It is just that I cannot draw at all! I ve tried and failed miserably. Actually, my mother was a professional drawer/draftswoman for power networks long before the computer era. I have some of her ink drawings which are simply amazing as well as some of her equipment. That gene did not make it through!
  4. A quick update. I did tons of work and have nothing to show! I finished lofting the hull and then realised that although all the lines and frames were fair, I had deviated from the original plans more than I wanted. So I started from scratch again, this time lofting to the waterlines and diagonals rather than the frames. I moved the lines around a bit so that from the beginning they lined the best with the frames as given. I had a big issue with the bow as the second frame was coming out constantly wrong. Finally, after a week of hard work I fixed the issue and produced a very nice fair hull. It was at that time that I realised that somehow the hull had rotated a bit and the sheer was completely wrong so again I had made a different boat only that this time it was lopsided. I am pretty traumatised but I think I have enough sanity left for a third attempt.
  5. Dear all I threw the sheets in the bathtub and soak them in very hot water. Then I took them to the garage, flat on the work bench with a sheet of particle board on top and whatever heavy items I had laying around pressing down. I repeated this cycle twice. Much improved situation, some sheets better than others. Some are dead flat, others have one edge straight and the other a bit wavy, others still a bit wavy. They are all however usable now.
  6. I would suggest to use only paint products specific for modelling. Much better pigments and quality. Yes, with practice you can brush paint with very good results. Spray paints are expensive and messy I have found. With acrylics you need a top coat, mat in your case.
  7. I had a look. Interesting. There is a disclaimer and a thread on copyright issues essentially justifying piracy on grounds that is needed because Chinese people do not have access to the original kits and also that the work to produce pirated kits essentially elevates them to original work status. MSW is criticised for its stance on Piracy. This site looks like it was set up as an advertising area to promote pirated kits from China, these are praised for their quality and customer support. I would not be surprised if it was directly funded as well. Drink tea and keep calm as we say in this Kingdom.
  8. Many thanks Dan! Actually I do have May's book, it contains some good info. I will look up the other book. I ll dare say that I am not too stressed with the planking, I think it will be ok. I just do not know how these boats were put together back then. At 1:10 scale mistakes are much more visible. At this scale a model very close to the real thing can be produced. Anyway, we ll cross this bridge when we get to it!
  9. Now, this is a good idea, much appreciated Bedford and Michael! I wonder if ordinary cement glue could be used, I think it dries rubbery. Many thanks to all!
  10. I remember spending 4 months drafting by hand, making all the frames and then binning everything and starting again. It's not often in life you get a second chance but you do in model building! Have fun and do not worry, all will fall into place in the end.
  11. Now, I did not really intend to get involved in a project like this. My current boat (Deben 5 tonner) still needs a lot of work and has been going on for close to 4 years. However, this week I somehow found myself with a lot of free time to sit in front of a computer but not being able to work in the garage. I stumbled across the prints that the National Maritime Museum sells and there were some of boats carried by ships of the line that looked nice and detailed. I have always wanted to draft from printed lines and I ve been missing messing about with planks so I started playing with CAD. I just used the images the museum has on the on line shop. I progressed rather well, kind of 20% through the first lofting, so I thought I ll start a log initially with the CAD lofting and then with the boat it self, provided of course I ll get a reasonable result. Without a deck and rigging and with just a few planks it should not take more than 2 years to complete... I would like to try and do a nice lapstrake, not sure if it is historically accurate. Also, I cannot find easily much info on how these boats were actually built in terms of stringers, thwarts etch so I ll use some more modern arrangements and hope for the best, unless in the meantime I get by some more info. I admit I have not searched through MSW yet. I would like to try for a quality model, choosing appropriate wood, lining up holes, being careful with fit and finish etc. We ll see.. Enough talking, lets get down to business. This is the set of plans I used. The print costs £25 and can be ordered on line but as I said I just used the picture uploaded on the webisite. I think we are ok with copyright issues. More info on https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86936.html The plans show that this boat has a Davit but I will ignore this, at least for now as I do not really understand how it works. It seems like an interesting twist though. These plans are really very detailed. They include the keel, three WL, two diagonals, the sheer, all but the middle frames (this seems to be common practice) and also some of the interior arrangement. They proved later quite accurate and it is amazing that people can produce this with a ruler and a pencil. Especially the accuracy of the diagonals is impressive. Tracing the lines showed that there was slight distortion of the paper so adjustments had to be made. Getting all pieces in the correct position produced a half hull In the next photo, the sheer was created from the two views (red lines) provided in the plan. It fits the frames reasonably close. After I took this screenshot I had to re position all fore frames to account for the missing middle frame. This sorted things out. Later on I also found a small mistake and correcting it raised all the frames a bit. These is the top view of the waterlines. A bit of effort was needed to get them somewhat fair And on to the hull...not too bad. The diagonals (blue) are also added The sheer seems reasonably fair. This is the only line that really needs to be fair as it will not change and will be a reference line. All other lines except maybe the diagonals will change during the lofting cycles. The waterlines are also faired but these will get adjusted many times The hull with just the lines. Note that the transom in the plans is given in its vertical projection. It first needs to be projected in the angled plane it would normally be prior to adding to the hull This concluded the first part which is to just get all lines drawn. Now, the first lofting cycle begins. I created two more WL to help me maintain the shape of the frames in the upper strakes (green colour) I decided that the diagonals are the more accurate lines and I will follow these, using the WLs to maintain the shape of the frames. This is how I arranged the new shape and how much off the frame was. Not too much really. The small horizontal lines were added to maintain the distance from the old line, so keeping the same shape as close as possible. Later on, the WLs will be created anew and faired and the cycle will begin again. In the next two photos, you can see that the frames on the left side that have been faired follow the lines much closer than the rest Now we can try and create a bit of surface with the frames we have adjusted and see how it looks and how smooth it is. The points and lines from adjusting the 5th frame can be seen in the background. This is not bad at all considering that the waterlines have not been faired back at all. Of course the difficult areas will be first the two segment at the bow and possibly the transom. To my experience the transom always creates problems! It looks promising though. I am not sure when I ll have time to do any more work on this but it has been fun. If I ever manage to build this it will be a big baby at 640 mm LOA, some planks will be close to 80 cm long! Off to a very busy weekend, I will be doubling the lighting in my garage, it should be as bright as a supenova afterwards. Regards Vaddoc
  12. Dear all Many thanks for your likes and comments It is Mark but I am looking for something simpler and maybe less permanent. I d like to avoid wielding a very hot iron close to the rigging and the shackles will have rope attached. Still, I think I should try it. Oh yes Druxey, very nicely! But the ones I can get this side of the pond are very expensive. This boat has already gone way overbudget and the admiral unfortunately has noticed... Michael, the holes are 1.1 mm wide and in line. My problem is, after I install them on the boat and pass the rope and the pin through, how to secure the pin in a quick and cheap way that is reversible and looks ok. I ll experiment a bit and post the results. Since there is very little metal in each shackle, maybe a quick touch with the soldering iron would be the better option. For now however, I cannot go in the garage. I had however lots of free time to sit in the computer and got side tracked by another project. I will probably start another log for that. Regards Vaddoc
  13. Yes they are Gregory, they come in 50 pack which is slight overkill and also in 32 mm diameter. Arbor is included.
  14. A quick post I took down the rope walk and is shackle time! I think I ll need very many so I d like to make 100 and choose the best. Now that I have standardised my method, it takes a few minutes to make each shackle. I made a few today, no failures. They still need to be polished. I am struggling a bit with the pin for the shackles. The hole is 1.1 mm and the diameter of the pin ideally should be 1 mm. I could use 1 mm brass wire and CA glue but this is slow and messy. I have ordered some small brass crimp beads with an 1.2 mm hole. I could not find smaller ones. I do not like this idea either though. Vaddoc
  15. A few days ago I discovered Proxon makes cut off wheels. They come in two diameters and are much thinner than the normal ones. One of the best buys this year!
  16. Welcome Afonso! Even a small boat can be surprisingly difficult to make, especially large scale scratch built. But it is also equally surprisingly fun and rewarding. Vaddoc
  17. Very true. There is a current thread on $1000+ milling machines that many of us feel is almost as necessary for life as oxygen. Yet we have built many models without one...I d say just start building using whatever you have. Do start a log. As you progress, you will know what more you need/want/would be very nice to have. (It will be a long list). Regards Vaddoc
  18. It's an unfair world. The admiral recently decided she needs a new hob, extractor fan and living room furniture. My opinion was needed and was given to me...It would not work the same with the milling machine. Is it possible to covert the milling machines mentioned so far to computer guided/router with reasonable bother and expenses? Vaddoc
  19. Indeed Alan, I have come to the same mindset. What would be the features of a sensible buy and what are the real options for a versatile machine? I do not need a milling machine (and cannot afford one just right now) but I sure want one! It seems that the main issues are the travel limits of the table and the spindle speed, whether it can go low enough for wood. Vaddoc
  20. Welcome Tony! Multiyear projects with life getting in the way...yep, you ll fit right in!
  21. I think an update is in order I have been busy as a bee with all sorts of things and spending the limited free (-ish) time making rope. I made a variety of sizes because my rope walk takes up the whole garage so I wanted to take it down and not put it up until my next model. Overall I made 250 m of rope! My rope walk works fantastically well and I actually had a go at making a cored rope. It did not work but the experience was very valuable. I might actually in the future make a whole new motor-cog unit with 4 positions, to make 4 strand and also cored rope. This are my results in regards to thread and rope sizes Left Twist: Petra, Perle Right Twist: Cebelia, Babylo, Cordonnet, Mara one ball Cordonnet 40 makes about 22 m of rope DMC Petra 3, 1x3---1.46 mm Petra 5, 1x3---1.18 mm Petra 8, 1x3---0.88 mm Petra 8, 2x3---1.25 mm Cebelia 10, 1x3---1.06 mm Cebelia 10, (1x3)x3---2 mm Babylo 40, 2x3---0.9 mm Perle 5, 3x3---2.1 mm Perle 5, 2x3---1.72 mm Perle 8, 1x3---0.81 mm Perle 8, 2x3---1.25 mm Perle 12, 1x3---0.63 mm Perle 12, 2x3---0.94 mm Cordonnet 20, 1x3---0.61 mm Cordonnet 20, 2x3---1.12 mm Cordonnet 40, 2x3---1.04 mm Cordonnet 60, 2x3---0.87 mm Cordonnet 60, 3x3---1.08 mm Cordonnet 80, 2x3---0.82 mm Cordonnet 100, 2x3---0.7 mm Cotton/linen yarn, 2x3---2.3 mm (too fuzzy) 100% cotton yarn, 2x3---2.3 mm (Too fuzzy) Gutermann Mara 30, 1x3---0.81 mm Mara 30, 2x3---1.06 mm Mara 30, 3x3---1.43 mm Mara 70, 2x3---0.77 mm Mara 70, 3x3---0.94 mm Mara 120, 2x3---0.56 mm Various Linen 40/2, 1x3---0.66 (Irregular, bad rope) Dual Duty XP, 4x3---1.6 mm (bad rope) Dual Duty plus, (1x3)x3, 1.6 mm (bad rope) Cottolin 22/2, 3x3---1.9 mm (quite fuzzy) DMC thread are very expensive but really wonderful. Gutermann Mara threads are very impressive, if I ever build a period ship I will only use these. I ll go back to the actual building now. On a different note, I have been very superficially thinking about the next model. A (very) large scale RC cold moulded sailboat is somehow coming up constantly. But I also want to make a simple clinker rowing boat, again at a very large scale, I feel the need to get immersed in the lapstrake planking. I certainly do not have the time, equipment and piece of mind to tackle the two masted schooner I ve always wanted to build. We will see.
  22. Dear all Having spend a lot of time making rope I d like to share my experience. I ve made many rope sizes using all of DMC range as well as a few others. This is what I came up with. Left Twist: Petra, Perle Right Twist: Cebelia, Babylo, Cordonnet, Mara one ball Cordonnet 40 makes about 22 m of rope DMC Petra 3, 1x3---1.46 mm Petra 5, 1x3---1.18 mm Petra 8, 1x3---0.88 mm Petra 8, 2x3---1.25 mm Cebelia 10, 1x3---1.06 mm Cebelia 10, (1x3)x3, 2 mm Babylo 40, 2x3---0.9 mm Perle 5, 3x3---2.1 mm Perle 5, 2x3---1.72 mm Perle 8, 1x3---0.81 mm Perle 8, 2x3---1.25 mm Perle 12, 1x3---0.63 mm Perle 12, 2x3---0.94 mm Cordonnet 20, 1x3---0.61 mm Cordonnet 20, 2x3---1.12 mm Cordonnet 40, 2x3---1.04 mm Cordonnet 60, 2x3---0.87 mm Cordonnet 60, 3x3---1.08 mm Cordonnet 80, 2x3---0.82 mm Cordonnet 100, 2x3---0.7 mm Cotton/linen yarn, 2x3---2.3 mm (too fuzzy) 100% cotton yarn, 2x3---2.3 mm (Too fuzzy) Gutermann Mara 30, 1x3---0.81 mm Mara 30, 2x3---1.06 mm Mara 30, 3x3---1.43 mm Mara 70, 2x3---0.77 mm Mara 70, 3x3---0.94 mm Mara 120, 2x3---0.56 mm Various Linen 40/2, 1x3---0.66 (Irregular, bad rope) Dual Duty XP, 4x3---1.6 mm (bad rope) Dual Duty plus, (1x3)x3, 1.6 mm (bad rope) Cottolin 22/2, 3x3---1.9 mm (quite fuzzy) This is how 230 m of scale rope looks like!

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