Jump to content

puckotred

Members
  • Content Count

    445
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by puckotred

  1. Well, it's new to the BBC. It's great!!! And if one doesn't like the story of the Tuunbaq one can always loose oneself in all the detail they chucked into this production. The ships, the clothing etc etc. more here To fully understand the story of the monster, reading the book is necessary. But even without that part, scurvy, botulism, consumption, freezing and starving is terrifying enough....
  2. If you want a 3d model of a cannon something like this I could do it for you on my spare time. As many polygons as you want. I did this set for my Bounty 1:45 scale. They printed well in resin.
  3. Maybe try to export the object as a .Obj file and load it to the slicer. BTW, what slicer program are you using? So far I found LycheeSlicer to be the best free program. It does a good job finding islands and faults in the model. I printed my Bounty cannons straight up with the muzzel against the print plate. Though I modelled the cannons in Cinema4d. Edit: Also there is a BIG difference in resin quality... went through some brands before I found one that works ok with smaller items... Edit again; I'm printing in resin,,,
  4. 1: I use mine until they break... 2: A caliper should do 3: I once bought the expencive bits and cried every time they broke 4: if the instructions goes by metric it would be easier with metric bits 5: I buy lots of cheap ones, I'm not a pro but it looks like I'm breaking them as a pro...
  5. Tjalle, check these out: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/AT-RT5205.html#SID=428 it's one of those "must have" tools
  6. Cool tool, but an inner diameter of 1,5 mm is too large for a 1:64 model?... And I've heard that it still need some afterwork as the loop is open and misaligned. So it may still be that the old round nose pliers is the way to go...
  7. Agree, The plans for the masts in 1:1 are wonderful, then come the rigging plans, a couple of pages at the end of the instructions...
  8. Ok, my book is 40 pages, so nothing is missing. I went through all the parts and marked them as wood or metal as I saw how disorganized the instructions actually are. I hope I got it covered. But thanks for the warning. There are a hundred things to keep track of here. To keep full control of the build (as with the PE parts) you have to jump from plan to plan looking for parts without really knowing what plans you should check. Sometimes several plans just for one area of the build.... Amati could have done that part a little better...
  9. Happy to be of some use. Now I see that I missed those parts under the poop deck. Good thing you posted that. You mentioned the "second book" and I only have one book. How many pages does your first book have? Hopefully I have a version that has your two books printed as one...
  10. I worked on the "Gotheborg" and lowered all the top masts but was up in the masts and not on deck so I missed where the belaying points where... Can't remember if there was one or two lines on the lift, but since there are two sheaves it seems logic that there would be two ropes as well... Could 411 be for the foremast and 413 be for the main mast? 410 and 416 for fore and main yard? 416 is described as "Driza verga mayor". Spanish "Driza" is Halliard so it would go to the yard... "main yard halliard" Found this pic that shows the blocks for the lift.
  11. Or is 411 the lifting ropes for the topmast??? And 410-416 for the main spar? I have to check this again tomorrow, now is bedtime...
  12. Last first: Line 406 should go to one of the 431 belaying points. lifting ropes: On page E in the booklet the lifting ropes (410-416) go straight down to the blocks behind the mainmast (i hope it is the main mast) so these blocks will be belaying points 410-416 and 411-413... Line 414 should be belayed to block closest to deck. The same should work for the fore mast. The cleats I do not know why they are there (yet)... Hope you understand me...
  13. Me and family been celebrating that summer is at last over!
  14. WOW!!! That's all I can say... (Except for your computer, not very impressed 😊)
  15. Well, we could try and figure it out together since I also have the plans.... Tell me what lines etc you are working with and I'll see if my tired brain could be of any help...
  16. Looking good! You might want to glue on the PE doors, ladders and windows now. The instructions does not say when to do this (or at least I have not found this) so check what PE to do now before the walls becomes too hard to access...
  17. First layer planking are plank strips. Should be enough of them to cover the extras... the strips may be fine also. The piece with the hole where the anchorchain comes out (anyone help me with the name for that hole?) has been trimmed so it could be that the ply strips would be long enough. (Forgot to mention before that one has to cut these strips from a large piece of thin ply. Should be easy to add a little in length to these strips while cutting)
×
×
  • Create New...