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About casper1961

  • Birthday 04/21/1961

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    Arnprior, Canada

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  1. Hey Pierre Glad to hear you are well and that it was as in my case, simply life getting in the way of our hobbies. I too, find myself ready to move this summer, hopefully for the last time for many years. I'm trying to set myself up for my retirement.....or later years as it will probably be more like. I find myself either buying or building as well. Take care...good to hear from you and i look forward to your continued log. Cheers Steve
  2. Very nice work, you are in the final stretch (the rigging) Looks great....great inspiration and a great log to follow when i finally get around to mine. Looking forward to your final pics....keep up the great work! Cheers Steve
  3. I myself haven't progressed since I first posted here. Life seemed to get in the way as it has a habit of doing. I still have 7 or more tall ships kits to build including finishing the HMS Serapis. Instead of golfing when/if I ever retire, this will be what occupies my time among other things. I hope these posts find their way to my co-poster Pierre aka PMG and that hehis health is fine and he is doing well and was able to complete his build. I look forward to hearing from all. Cheers Steve
  4. Hi Denis Why the secrecy over the sail material? Can you tell us all or PM me too please? Thanks Steve
  5. Hey Sherry...I saw your posting regarding the results or lack of so far in casting the cannons. For this size casting I definitely would be painting the resin on both sides of the mould, (if you made your mould properly, you should have a fairly good size reservoir to use) Why? Once you have painted both sides of the mould with resin, and "slap" the 2 parts together, in your case I would stand the mould vertically and pour some leftover resin in the reservoir and squeeze the mould halves together like you are giving it CPR, squeezing the air out and drawing the resin into the mould, pumping it vigorously. This is if you do not degas the resin with a vacuum chamber or vibration. This usually works very well...messy?...can be! How many barrels do you have in your mould? If you have several, this comes in handy in that you may have 4 in the mould and each casting get 1 to 2 that are perfect...still better than carving each....as you do more of this you will find little tricks that make it work better each time. How long do you have for setup time before the resin starts to turn solid? 5 minutes? 10 minutes? Steve
  6. Hey Sjors! I agree Sherry is doing an amazing job but I'm worried about your offer of having her do your balcony! You realize it would be to a scale of 1:90 it would be really small! Too small for you to sit down and enjoy! LOL Carry on with 1;90 Sherry! Steve
  7. Hey Sherry I think I see a new pole coming, spindusters or balustinders? Spinduster sounds like a new product by Swiffer! I like the balustindles myself! And to add to the mystery aren't Balusters those bubbles you get on your hands and feet when you work too hard. Still and always "freaked out" by your mastery or is it misstery? Steve
  8. Ok ok ok! Seems like you all missed the essence of Sherry's question about the "NAUTICAL" term for spindle. Now a spindle is a baluster, and a spindle/railing and newel post = a balustrade. But these were Architectural terms from a long time ago. Now, a spindle on a ship is not a baluster...it is a point that something rotates around like a capstan rotates on a spindle and the pins used to manually rotate a capstan may also be referred to as a spindle. So, let me put it out there again, is there a truly nautical term for a baluster other than baluster? BTW my term "spindle aye" means spindle yes! And it was meant as a joke! ha ha! lol Cheers Steve ps carry on freaking us out Sherry!
  9. Nautical term for spindles on a ship....spindles aye! Anytime...anytime!
  10. Hey Sherry nice job on the repairs! I've got a good eye for details and I find it difficult to see any of the previous damage. I think she should be re-Christened the San Felipe-Phoenix I was going to say something smart like "great repair but why does she now have 2 bows? " lol but I'll save that for a rainy day Cheers Steve
  11. Oh oh....not good. Yeah boats aren't meant to fly and when they do the landing its usually disastrous! Like Grant said, the saving Grace here is that it is wood and usually repairable. Glad to hear the repairs are under way already. Good luck on the repair...btw did the carving get damaged? Steve
  12. I would agree the postings above this, and go make an RTV rubber mould and resin casting. I would only make the one mould for now, but I would buy several, around 5 canon barrels and make the mould hold all five. Then you are only having to make about 20 castings. Tips when casting..You can vibrate the bubbles out of resin while in the mould if the mould is set vertically as the bubbles with rise to the top or make your self a homemade vacuum chamber using a clear fairly strong container that you can make a connection to your vacuum cleaner hose. This helps draw the bubbles out better than vibration. Having a clear plastic or glass (I used a large mason jar for mine attached to a refrigerator compressor with a surgical hose attached to a little pipe glued through the lid) having the container clear allows you to watch and regulate how long you need the suction. Steve
  13. Hey Sherry If you want to go wood, another idea could be to purchase a small drill press for a hand drill. I used to see them on sale occasionally at Canadian Tire. You could use that to hold the hand drill and basically set it up as vertical lathe by fixing a centre pin on the base to steady while turning. If you want to cast, I have done many moulds using RTV rubber purchased at local hobby stores for around $30. I would buy a barrel or carve one to use as the original plug. Cast as per Belco's posting and make a mould. You could either use metal or I would use polyester resin and cast as many as you need. That would be far less labour intensive than carving 100+ cannons. Buy a single 1/96 cannon barrel for around $2 plus shipping and use it as your plug. Hope this helps Steve
  14. Hey Sherry Why not buy some wood dowel, same as the maximum diameter and file and sand them down with a drill...cut them 1/2" longer to fit into the chuck, If you make a stand for the drill that would give you hands free...and you could make the stand so that it has another centre with a pin to hold the other end of the dowel to hold it steady while turning...a Dremel might even work better....I'm kind of thinking as I type. When the barrels are turned, then stain.... Just a thought... Steve
  15. Hi All I just wanted to let you all know the fleet just grew by 1....No I didn't have a baby! Well not unless you call Mamoli's Friesland my new baby? So add this to the to-do list, not sure where in the pecking order but I am sure I will enjoy building her! Well, deer season is over for me for another year, the deer win again! Blast! Time to get back to the hobby table (kitchen table actually) and get back to work on the Serapis... More to come over the Christmas break...no miracles here but I do plan on doing some more work on the gunports etc. Cheers

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