Ed Saur
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Aeropiccola manufactured 3 inexpensive kits that I've built: HMS Prince, HMS Seraphis and Nonsuch. All three used hot-pressed sawdust-glue (looked like cooked waffles) to make the good-looking, detailed sterns and other decorations. Not being metal but thermoplastic stuff, I could use a hair dryer warm up and press fit the gun port wreaths to the shape of the hull sides.
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Dan, That is my favorite plan. I have it on my office wall. Everybody, Would these sorts of sterns be doable, at say 5" in height, in one piece using resin or 3d printing by a kit company? And what various ways can the painted items above and between the cannon ports best be created? Decals, printed paper or going to 2 years of art school? Finally, how to create the globular stern lanterns? Ed
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Chas, Daniel Dusek is about to release the Statenyacht Utrecht which is a model of a 17century type. You are right in saying this area is underserved. Let us keep up the huzzah, especially for larger models of smaller ships. Ed
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A idiot proof HMS Winchelsea (1764) kit by Chuck with same level of instructions as the Cheerful. Full resin stern (?), lots of mini kits. 6-900 dollars depending on the amount scratch built. My only caveat is; if the skill level needed is too high, I would have a hard time paying so much -- fearing failure. Ed
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Daniel, There is a very neat youtube of the Statenjacht de Utrecht being taken out for a sail. Ed
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Daniel, All the pictures for "Utrecht yacht" on Bing have flags close to "A". Also, note the tanbark color of the current topsail. Are you using that old, old trick of , "soaking in tea" for weathering? Cheers, Ed
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Will the kit offer pre-sewn sails as an addition? And how long from this "WOW" point to a happy, "Come and get it!" announcement?
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Daniel, When you have large carvings and also cannon wreaths like on the Dutch Yacht, how do you fasten them? Glue (cyano/epoxy) to bare wood and then paint carefully? Or mechanical fastening -- toothpicks... er... I mean tree nails -- with glue, to painted and/varnished wood? Or some other means? Ed
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I like Michael's Folk Art flat colors -- especially Camel -- which looks very much like boxwood. Painting my models always makes me a bit crazy, but avoiding glossy colors helps a lot. How do your experiences inform this painting situation? Some kits I have looked at have brass etched strips along the sheer -- like HMS FLY or HMS Pegasus. Other models have many cast metal 'carvings' in 3 dimensions that are heavier and also problematic to me. When I paint any color with three coats using a good brush, while keeping a wet edge; the acrylic paint always looks pretty uniform. But I wonder about long term brass/metal adhesion to the flat acrylic painted surface? And also what would be the best glue to use then? Or I could glue first on bare wood, using whatever glue is best -- Hot Stuff? But afterwards I would need to insert the paint in here and there -- all over -- for the background or hull colors. Tedious and a bit blobby looking, I imagine. Ed
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I think Ewart Freeston must have used The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spiritsail Topmast 1600-1720 by R. C Anderson. And in his 7 part series he does show how his model was rigged. On the other hand, I am not sure if the Keltridge plans have deck views and Freeston may have been informed by contemporary ship models for stairs, knightheads, capstans, hatches, et cetera. And since the he specifically mentions there were no 6th rates built at the time from these plans he may have felt the freedom to improvise and add grace notes as he saw fit. Ewart Freeston also wrote the book, Prisoner-of-war ship models, 1775-1825; so must have had spent many years visiting museums as well as building models. Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750 by John Franklin has many pictures and drawings from museum models. Not sure if any of this rises to the standards you need to work to; but an 'unnamed 6th Rate Stuart model' could be on many modeller's bucket list since these articles appeared in Model Shipwright in 1972-73.
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Daniel, more research: Model Shipwright's first 7 issues featured, "Building a 17th Century Dockyard Model" by Ewart Freeston. It is described as a, "Sixth Rate of 24 guns from a draught proposed by William Keltridge 1684. 1/4 = 1'0". Length of gundeck 87'8". Breath 23'6"." I hope you find this ship as enchanting as I did and will lend you my copies 1-7 if you want them. Ed
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Willliam Keltridge plans have been modeled. Here are two links: first one is text description and the second a picture. http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/531162.html http://imageweb-cdn.magnoliasoft.net/nmmplans/supersize/j8581.jpg Please take a look while the printer is on the fritz -- the top one with gun port wreathes would be my thought.
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Hmmm... I guess any Stuart 6th Rate done large would be super. Over the years, Model Shipwright has been flogging us mercilessly with many terrific, but difficult to build, gilded beauties -- produced by master model makers. And I imagine, but do not know, that they had good plans from English sources. HMY Fubbs is also in the back of my mind now, but I have seen so many versions of it modeled, that I wonder if it isn't the perfect example of the problem you have with plans. In any event, I am looking forward to the Staten Yacht and the flogging to end -- my chance to build a really great 17th century model!
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Mr. Dusek, I think the Dutch Statenyacht pictures are great. Now that you have triremes, 3-deckers and 3d printers under control -- time for the Peregrine Galley? It has oars, sails and gingerbread galore! And please make it large. Ed Saur
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