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Everything posted by Bedford

  1. I never mind a question, hell, I have asked thousands !! If your solder says "solid" then it is not resin cored and you would need flux. Personally I would consign it to Davey Jones' Locker and buy some resin cored. Resin cored will say "resin cored" and if it is an old roll and you can't read the label then pull on the end, stretch it until it breaks. You should be able to see the resin cores. There are normally a few cores that are like veins running through the length of the solder. It is brown so easy to see. If not sure then heat up the iron and melt some solder, the resin will becom
  2. I have never added flux to a solder joint I have done at home. The resin in the solder is more than adequate.
  3. OK ! Soldering. I am an electrical fitter, I have made thousands of solder joints with copper and 60/40 resin cored solder. Forget silver solder for non load bearing joints, you don't need it and it may require specialised heating implements and flux. Copper is made to be soldered with 60/40 resin cored, they go together like peas in a pod. Use a mains powered iron, 25watt should be good. MAKE DAMN SURE THE COPPER IS CLEAN!!!! I use wet and dry sanding paper to make it shiny and don't touch it where you are going to solder. Do not set it up on a wooden board unless you
  4. Yes Lami, info please! I saw this on the home page and had to find the build log. There is so much I would like to know about this build. Steve
  5. Good on you for doing the scratch building Robbyn, in my view that's what makes you a good modeller rather than just someone how puts a kit together. Re your bike trip I have one question.............................how are you going to safely carry the SF on a bike so you can work on it while you are there
  6. Yes I an saying DO NOT attach the dead-eyes and chain plates yet because you have no accurate way of getting the correct angles. Not sure what you mean by "racks"
  7. Robbyn, Robbyn, Robbyn....................... I am sure I have said this before but it has to look right to you. If someone else looks at it they will be overwhelmed with all the detail there is to see and all the fine detail work you do will not really be noticed anyway. You do it for YOU. when it comes to doing the chain plates keep in mind they need to continue in the line of the shroud through the shroud table and onto the hull, don't mount them vertically. To this end I don't attach the chain plates until I have the masts stepped and standing.Then run a shroud line from its point of
  8. Love the grating, well done and I love the third pic above, the whole weather deck from the bow. Looks great!
  9. Catfalls is another term. If you think of them as cats paws and the lines dropping from them as the cats claws you will see where the name comes from. Now, stop dreaming and get back to work !
  10. Yes Robbyn you will learn a lot as you go, as I have said, I have the CWMorgan and the plans and instructions are to say the least - some form of plan and or instruction. I will tackle her one day though and I will do what I do which is make her to a form that looks right to me. There are so many beautiful ships to build though aren't there? Steve
  11. Now that we have run amok with your thread Robbyn I will just wish you were here and let you get back to your build, it is coming along well and the gun ports look great. Steve
  12. I fear we will find this more and more as manufacturers find ways to cut costs by using generic parts across the range on a "that'll do" basis. We had this discussion with the rudder hinges earlier. I wonder if there is one manufacturer who will stay true to scale, they would cost more but be worth it. Steve
  13. Glad it worked Robbyn. I mentioned "flexible beach" that's what they call it at MS here in Aus. Next time you order timber get some, probably about 5mm x 1.5mm, sorry, you guys who ditched imperial rule centuries ago but still keep imperial measurements will have to convert that yourselves These are pics of my first model tall ship "Schooner for Port Jackson" from the supplier I mentioned above. The pics are not great because she is behind glass but if you look between the lanyards or ropes that attach the shroud lines to the hull you will see a piece of timber on the bulwalk bent
  14. I have no idea how hot a curling iron gets but I would imagine not very. From the look of your profile pic you wouldn't have any other use for one though
  15. Have you made any progress with this Robbyn ? You should find as you make a few models there will be timber left over from each, never throw this out as I am sure you would appreciate. It becomes very handy in subsequent builds. For future reference there is a type of "beach" that is very flexible and although a bit dearer than most woods it is well worth it and I get it from MS as required. In this instance though if you do not have a planking iron, and I have never seen the need, get it nice and hot and wet and lay it flat on a suitable surface and iron it with your domestic stea
  16. Nice progress Robbyn, looking good. Yes it is always better to inset doors and the like so they don't just look stuck on. Good on you for going above and beyond. Steve
  17. Robbyn, mail order is your friend. There is a place here called Modellers Shipyard and their website lists all the timbers and dimensions they have available and they post every day, I am sure there would be a few such places there and they advertise on this website. I would also imagine that it would be a fair bit cheaper in the U.S. than here too. You will be able to order whatever individual pieces your heart desires. You won't find the timbers you want locally but online there will be plenty. Steve
  18. Hey Robbyn I don't know if this would be helpfull or not but I posted consctruction pics of the replica Endeavour made in Perth in 1993, http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1207-endeavour-replica-construction-pics/ If nothing else you can see just how woefully inaccurate the rudder hinges supplied with a kit are. It might help with the line of external timbers though. Steve
  19. Yeah, this is one of the benefits of not having a dog !! I am not sure but a good model ship supplier that sells ships decorations separately for the scratch builder might be your best bet for a replacement. Steve
  20. I have been tossing around the colour scheme for mine as I normally don't paint my ships, I like the beauty of the timber. The Caroline will be special and needs to look it's best and colour will be required to bring out the full beauty of the ship. I have thought I would do pretty much what you have done but was toying with leaving the white off below the water line. Having seen yours I think that will work nicely.
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