Dziadeczek
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from markjay in Coppering a hull?
Jason,
Take a look at the book, "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by N. Longridge, page 55.
Besides, this particular issue was discussed long time ago on the, now practically defunct forum, Ships in Scale.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from hornet in Coppering a hull?
In English ships of war, the hull was coppered from the waterline down to the keel and from the stern towards the bow. In all other ships coppering was done also from the stern to the bow, but, interestingly, from the keel upwards, to the waterline. Don't ask me, why.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in Coppering a hull?
In English ships of war, the hull was coppered from the waterline down to the keel and from the stern towards the bow. In all other ships coppering was done also from the stern to the bow, but, interestingly, from the keel upwards, to the waterline. Don't ask me, why.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Rope Making Basics
Mike,
The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc.
If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do.
Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model! Have fun!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from tkay11 in Rope Making Basics
Mike,
The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc.
If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do.
Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model! Have fun!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Rope Making Basics
Mike,
The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc.
If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do.
Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model! Have fun!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Mumin in Rope Making Basics
Mike,
The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc.
If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do.
Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model! Have fun!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from shiloh in Rope Making Basics
Mike,
The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc.
If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do.
Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model! Have fun!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in where can find this Awesome model ??
Heller has a nice kit with it.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in where can find this Awesome model ??
Heller has a nice kit with it.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Moonbug in 1460 Ships boats of Christopher Columbus?
Get yourself a book "The Ships of Christopher Columbus" by Xavier Pastor. It is from the series "Anatomy of the Ship".
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in 1460 Ships boats of Christopher Columbus?
Get yourself a book "The Ships of Christopher Columbus" by Xavier Pastor. It is from the series "Anatomy of the Ship".
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Dziadeczek reacted to Kevin Kenny in HMS Granado by Kevin Kenny - Caldercraft
I have produced a video record of Caldercrafts HMS Granado comprising 47 individual films that run between 5 to 15 minutes. I hope you find them useful. This is the first. Once you tage follow ypu can access all the other videos.
There are also a set of three videos on how to build the display case. The first is
Finially there ar a few videos on Power tools
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in best way to do the rabbet line/bearding line
Why don't you try to do, what I suggested in here earlier on:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11750-new-memberwith-problems/
After marking the bearding line by joining the tips of all temporarily installed bulkheads (no glue yet), carefully cut off the lower section of your keel (made out of basswood in this kit) and replace it with the one you made from solid hardwood (remember to add a bit of wood to its thickness, allowing for the loss of basswood keel that you cut off, due to the kerf of your blade).
Before joining (glueing) both pieces together, file off their edges - you'll end up with a nice rabbet after you join them. If you are careful enough, you can gradually change the angle while filing off the edges in various sections of your keel, thus making this rabbet better shaped for the lowest planks which you later on tuck in there.
After glueing both pieces of your keel, secure them further with several thin pieces of wood (eg. treenails, or such) glued into predrilled holes through the lower keel and into your bass keel.
This is exactly the way I did with my Rattlesnake (MS) model. I used a piece of cherry for my lower keel and planked the hull also with cherry planks. Looks much better than basswood, in my opinion.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in best way to do the rabbet line/bearding line
Why don't you try to do, what I suggested in here earlier on:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11750-new-memberwith-problems/
After marking the bearding line by joining the tips of all temporarily installed bulkheads (no glue yet), carefully cut off the lower section of your keel (made out of basswood in this kit) and replace it with the one you made from solid hardwood (remember to add a bit of wood to its thickness, allowing for the loss of basswood keel that you cut off, due to the kerf of your blade).
Before joining (glueing) both pieces together, file off their edges - you'll end up with a nice rabbet after you join them. If you are careful enough, you can gradually change the angle while filing off the edges in various sections of your keel, thus making this rabbet better shaped for the lowest planks which you later on tuck in there.
After glueing both pieces of your keel, secure them further with several thin pieces of wood (eg. treenails, or such) glued into predrilled holes through the lower keel and into your bass keel.
This is exactly the way I did with my Rattlesnake (MS) model. I used a piece of cherry for my lower keel and planked the hull also with cherry planks. Looks much better than basswood, in my opinion.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mischief in How would you improve your Byrnes tools?
KeithW, you can get various draw plates of different hole sizes from jewelry supplies stores. Excellent quality, like the Byrnes draw plate. Also, they sell draw plates of different shape holes, for instance square, triangular, rectangular...
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Tiny fake nails/nail heads
I haven't done it, but perhaps it would be worthwhile trying it:
It however produces round nail heads, not hexagonal.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Tiny fake nails/nail heads
I haven't done it, but perhaps it would be worthwhile trying it:
It however produces round nail heads, not hexagonal.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Landlocked123 in Deck clamp notches
I have a question. How do you cut these notches for deck beams into the deck clamps? I understand that doing it off the model would be much easier, but then, how do you determine their exact locations OFF the model?
On the other hand, cutting them on the model would be exceedingly difficult due to immediate proximity of frames and external planking (not enough space to manouver cutting tools).
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards,
Thomas
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in Deck clamp notches
You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from druxey in Deck clamp notches
You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from shiloh in Deck clamp notches
You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Jack12477 in Deck clamp notches
You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Deck clamp notches
You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:
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