Thom
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Posts
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Joined
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robert daniels reacted to a post in a topic:
Chamfer a plank
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Kurt Johnson reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
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Yes, I do it, too. For this purpose I bent a flat brush around 90 degree so I can "paint" the PVA clue around corners inside the hull. -
WackoWolf reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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I am using self-adhesive isolation tape, cut in small strips. Only one very tiny drop of cyano glue on the ends. I also do some overlapping because rings in reality also overlapped. It all depends on scale, the larger the scale the more I tend to metal strips. You can also cut the thin aluminium from tea lights in strips.
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jbford reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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bhermann reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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Stockholm tar reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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augie reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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as - so I think - we have been all with our first painting attempt, something for the horror cabinet of never again made faults ;-)
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fnkershner reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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WackoWolf reacted to a post in a topic:
Hints on painting rings on barrels
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Hi This is how I do it: First I sand down these much to thick rings so that I have a flat barrel surface.Than I engrave button and top, because the planks (ohoh.. in german it is called "daube" - don't know the english word, maybe "stave") always are a bit longer and form a ring to hold the buttom and top plate in place. Than I engrave small lines do simulate the "staves" from which the barrel is originally built. Next is to paint or varnish the barrel. Last step I use some small strips of metal, paper oder tape (already blackened) and glue it around. Greetings Thom PS: Maybe take a look at some pics here (please scroll down a bit) http://www.atme-licht.de/Modellbau/Dock.html
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Smile, watching your log I'm eager to see how many mistakes I've made years ago. Still some dust on my build (at the beginning of rigging). I plan to watch again the movie 1492 with Gerard Depardieu and take a lot of pictures from the tv screen of the Santa Maria for my build. PS: Not yet restarted 'cause victory cross section ist so time consuming Greetings Thom
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Has anybody built the Santa Maria by Artesania?
Thom replied to lmgoldstein's topic in Wood ship model kits
I started this build years ago, back in 2004, without any aid from the internet. I stopped hopelessly when it comes to rigging. Just last month I dusted this one off and made a loooong list of mistakes I have to correct. It's now on my workbench to become something that looks at least like a ship ;-) Maybe take a look on my page www.atme-licht.de/Modellbau/Dock.html (just scroll a bit down below the victory cross-section - okay, text is in german, pictures not ;-)) -
The Planking Inside
Thom replied to Thom's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yes, you're right. It's much more complicated than the outer hull. Interesting that deAgo on the Victory Cross Section Model cares for caulking only the upper decks, not the orlop deck, because of it's removable planks. -
aspesBels reacted to a post in a topic:
Chamfer a plank
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I like this. Thank you for the collected information. Very interesting indeed.
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The Planking Inside
Thom replied to Thom's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Yes, I think you're right, it seems to be very difficult. Most ship models are with a closed hull, and so there are not so much infos to be find in the forums. I think usind the "normal standard length" would be okay, and with the butt staggering you are right, it was with offset to the outer planking (sounds logical). Okay okay, seems a bit overdosed for my Vic Cross Section Model with 9cm width, I won't do a butt shifting here. But with the build came the question (still sitting in the corner to build Jack Sparrow's Black Pearl with one open hull side). Thanks for your answer -
Hi Folks First question: Does anyone know about planking inside a ship, i.e. HMS Victory? Are the planks on the inner hull the same length as on the outer hull? What ist the planking scheme? Second Question What about the planks on the lower decks? Are are decks caulked? Or only the main deck? Caulking on lower decks seems a bit too much for me because there isn't much water to sip through? Many Greetings and lots of sunshine from Germany Thom
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Oops, I'm sorry, Mabe it's my english... Your wrote scrollsaw. I misplaced it with the Proxxon KS230. My fault. But I've got many tools from Proxxon, they're all good in quality and handling.
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I am very(!) satisfied with the Proxxon Saw. I have the small one and the middle one (for my 1:1 homeworking projects ;-))
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Hi Pavol I recently finsihed building this kit (maybe have a look on my homepage www.atme-licht.de/Modellbau/Bilder.html). If your'e not so experienced with wooden ship models, I wouldn't suggest this one. The instructions are sometimes... how do I say it the best... not so detailled and sometimes there are no instructions at all. Mainly for the rigging. There are so many points left out in the instructions, you should have a good idea about what you do. I surely liked the idea of the open side so you can have a look inside the ship. So if you're somehow experienced in wooden ship building (I was not ;-)) you should give it a try - nice model I think. Thom
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Enamle vs Acrylic
Thom replied to Timothy Wood's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Yes, in the "good all days" I also used Humbrol Enamel, they were much better than all enamel colors I can now buy here in Germany. Don't know what happened. And so my decision to go for acrylic colors was an easy one. As to a question above. Sometimes I do a clear coat on wood before using the colors, mainly when drawing straigt lines like waterlines etc. because it lessens the chance of leaking the color. Don't use too much color on wood, the structure should not be overcoated by colore. -
Enamle vs Acrylic
Thom replied to Timothy Wood's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Same as Larry. Mostly I am using acrylic paint, because it's (for me) much easier to clean up (and breathe, mainly when using an airbrush). Only problems seems to me with metal colours like copper, gold etc. Now I'm sitting here and listening to other experiences :-)
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