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molasses

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About molasses

  • Birthday 11/18/1951

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    Joshua Tree, California, USA

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    davefellingham@yahoo.com

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  1. You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a
  2. Granted; just like everything else on sailing vessels, there was an evolution, but that formula works well for late 18th century through 20th century wooden blocks for hemp rope. My project is a Napoleonic era warship.
  3. Thanks, John. That was what I was looking for. The diameter correlates pretty closely with what I was getting by scaling off the drawing depending on whether I measured to inside, outside or center of the rather fat lines on my drawing - 12 to 15 inches for 9 inch circumference shrouds but not close enough for sure. Thanks again to all. Dave
  4. I have a set of plans and pages of tables for all the rigging used on a ship I want to model. Problem is that there is no mention anywhere of the dimensions (diameter and thickness) of the deadeyes. I could measure the deck level deadeyes on the hull plans, but that's not reliable and doesn't help with the top mast and topgallant mast deadeyes. Is there a formula relating the deadeye dimensions to the size (circumference or diameter) of the shroud or back stay that will be attached to it? I know the three holes will need to provide clearance for a lanyard about half the diameter of the shr
  5. Jeff, If you look closely you may notice three sizes of clothespins. Here in the States the mini clothes pins can be found at Walmart in the craft section and the small ones in the office supply section. It seems strange they are in different sections but they are.
  6. Time to post some progress. I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast. The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat. I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22). But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
  7. Where were you two and a half years ago? I'm at 95%+ done fabricating with only deck details left. And I do not want to find that I have a bunch of mistakes to correct. Seriously, Igor, I appreciate the offer but I really don't need them.
  8. I'm working almost exclusively from photos. I was unable to find any plans for Esmeralda or her sister ship Juan Sebastian Elcano. I did find a low-res drawing of the weather deck and the deck below which gave me my deck outline and helped with my best guess at the waterline shape. I also had the dimensions (OA length, WL length, beam, mast heights, etc.) which I used to extrapolate other dimensions from the scores of photos I collected from the web. Deck plan used. The lower deck shows the hull shape at the lower deck which I used to make my best guess at the waterline. The three image
  9. I'm posting a follow-up on Ogallala. Upon finishing her I submitted photos to Bottle Shipwright, the quarterly journal of the Ships in Bottles Association of America (of which I am a member), and quickly learned that Ogallala would be the featured SiB in the March issue which I received a few days ago. Here's the cover. I'm not going to bore you with posting the photos from the article because they have already been posted here. As an aside, I mentioned a couple times in this build log that I can't really see my work for what it is. All I can see are the deficiencies no matter how
  10. You should be able to save your Word document as a pdf then post it without a problem.
  11. That's one way to rationalize my laziness. I'm very pleased to be back to work on Esmeralda and sharing my progress with my friends here. Thanks to all for the "welcome back". Dave
  12. Welcome to resumption of work on Esmeralda. I haven't worked on it in over a year so picking up where I left off was a bit difficult. I decided I have some re-work to do to incorporate some techniques I learned or improved upon since the last work done. I also have a lazy streak. There are a large number of round port lights on most of the deck hatches that I didn't originally intend to reproduce but decided I can't leave off. I realized I could do them as decals on the eight hatches and prepared them on the computer and printed them on decal stock along with the yellow metal stern relief
  13. Finished Ogallala and can now get back to work on Esmeralda. I hadn't intended to take this much time away from Esmeralda but Ogallala turned into a much more comprehensive project than I had originally planned. I did find some more, useful, photos of E for some details on deck and aloft and kept her in mind during my side journey. I learned a few things from O that I will apply to E and I have a bit of re-work to do and some details to add before I pick up where I left off. I'll post my progress soon. I came across an interesting variation on a ship in a bottle with Esmeralda as the subje
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