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About ulrich

  • Birthday 09/22/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Palmyra VA, USA
  • Interests
    of course ship modelling, history, reading,
    member of the Hampton Roads Ship Model Society,

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  1. What criteria defines the term "semi scratch" build? Ulrich
  2. I purchased the plans (3 sheets) from the Cutty Sark museum in Greenwich, London. They are excellent. Ulrich
  3. Hello Riotvan88< I would create a slot to hold the keel to a wood base by gluing 2 square "dowels", as long as the entire keel, wide enough apart to hold the keel tightly. Make sure these square "dowels" a low enough to not interfere with the bottom of the bulkheads. the bow and stern section of the false keel need to be held by square angles up to the top of bow and stern. This should keep the keel straight for now. After you have assembled the bulkheads to the keel you need to glue blocks between each bulkhead to keep it straight. Better would be to fill all the voids between the bulkheads and make it a solid hull. For that, I would use bass wood, no balsa wood. Good luck Ulrich
  4. I have used several different sizes of chain on my Cutty Sark (1:78), down to about 47 l/in. However, instead of chain for the the sheets, I used bead cord. I obtained this (nylon?) material from my local jewelry store. It comes in diff. colors and sizes and really looks like chain considering the small scale it is to represent. The drawback is that it might twist when its stretched. Ulrich
  5. Ahoy everyone, Concerning the flying stay sail on the Katy of Norfolk: can anyone enlighten me were on the fore mast to place the small block (3/32) for the down haul and the bulls eye for the upper tack? Thanks for your help. Ulrich
  6. Thanks, Dave, I appreciate it. No, no build log. Guess, I am too busy building models rather than taking pics and fighting my outdated PC. Regards, Ulrich
  7. thanks for all the likes and nice comments, I have received for my model. Happy New Year to you all!!! Ulrich
  8. Ahoy John, Happy New Year, good health and good luck to you!! Thanks for your nice comment above. My camera is old and out dated, so is my PC, therefore the quality of these photos is not very high. Perhaps later, I get to exchange them for better pictures. Thanks again, Ulrich
  9. semi scratch built, using vintage MS kit (1:96, 1/8"). Woods used: Holly, Swiss Pear, Degame, Walnut. Commercially available fittings (copper plates, dead eyes, blocks, belaying pins, ankers, Rigging line, Fly fishing Hooks (for eyelets), completed Dec. 2016.
  10. Great idea!!! It will make attaching the rat lines easier, faster and more realistic. One (two) question though about the sandpaper: what grit did you use and does the sand paper have any affect on the shroud lines? (ruffing them up?) Ulrich
  11. Hi, you'all a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale. Happy modeling Ulrich
  12. Tony, I made my own some years back using a can with a top (english candy). It is somewhat primitive but it does the job well on blocks, not so well on the wooden parrel beads, when I tried to reduce their size. Regards, Ulrich
  13. Thanks for all the advise and tips. I don't have a lathe to turn those beads from wood (which would be my first choice). I will try to use the method, Jan describes, using clay. To round them off, I will run them in my block tumbler and see if that works. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again, Ulrich
  14. Hello everyone! For my current model, I need parrel beads the size around 1/32" or 0.8 to 1.0 mm. I have searched this web site, the internet and went to the lokal hobby store (Michaels) without satisfying results. Does anyone know where to purchase or how to make beads this small? Any help is greatly appreciated. Kind Regards Ulrich
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