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divarty

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About divarty

  • Birthday 04/14/1973

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    Northern California

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  1. After a long hiatus I have started up work on the Ratt again. Thanks everyone for the input ad kind words. Right in one! I started laying the planking in belt C, after getting tick strips and measurements for each bulkhead I followed the recommendation in the instruction pamphlet of planking across 4 bulkheads at a time, and this is where I found what I believe to be my first mistake. You can see in the picture, I put the garboard strake on and left it full width and full length. That makes it approx 5mm wide. When I measured the remaining space and put it on the fan grid to determine the width of the other 5 planks in the belt they are closer to 3mm at most locations. I may remove the plank and the garboard strake, remeasure and get my new widths and do all 6 planks, including the garboard strake as sections.
  2. Slowly but surely progress occurs. I have finished up the gun and oar port framing on both sides and sanded them down flush with the bulkheads Looking at the directions it calls for the rails to be installed next but my thought (and it appears to be backed by all the other Ratt builds on the forums) was that it would be better to start and finish the planking prior to putting the rails on. So going on that note I spent days pouring over the other builds, reading the instructions, rereading the instructions and then trying to jump in. I started by installing the garboard strakes on both sides. My one point of confusion over the drawings was that it declared above the whales you should use 1/32" planks while below the whales you should use 1/16th. In looking at my stock of woods I made an assumption that the measurements were based on thickness not width? I'm also basing this assumption on the fact that the width will vary. Working on those assumptions I started to lay out the planking belts, I'm not sure the best way to go about this so for the moment I was just eyeballing it. I measured the first bulkhead on either side then divided by three, that gave me an approximate point to put in my first pins then I strung the line and eyeballed the rest of the way. Anyone have any thoughts on a better way to do this? I plan on re-reading the planking tutorials to see if they give me any better ideas on how to set the belts.
  3. Sherry absolutely beautiful work. Well done, I can't wait to see your next steps.
  4. I have started the framing of the gun ports and oar ports, it's been slow progress so far but enjoyable. I rigged up a quick platform and temporarily put together a single gun to check the initial height of the gun ports. This jig was used to help me measure each gun port as I built them out. The instructions called for using 1/16th square stock to do the framing. Had I used that thickness it would not have been flush with the planking when I laid it in. Instead I used 1/16th by 1/8th which is a touch wide. I put the piece flush with the inside of the bulkheads, this leaves it standing out to the outside of the bulkheads then I go back and sand it down. This allows me to have a flush framework and to maintain the curvature of the hull when I plank. To make sure the framework was level I matched it against a square using the bulkhead as a "true" point To get the correct sizing of the gun ports I would use my jig with the gun to get the correct height then lay down the first horizontal beam, I would then insert the blank measured to the correct size for the gunport (pulled from the plans) and insert the top horizontal beam tight against the blank. After the glue had set on the two horizontal beams I would measure the correct distance from the bulkhead for the gunport and put in the first vertical beam. Leaving my gunport blank in place I would put in the second vertical beam. This gave me pretty close to a square gunport. I have read other builds where the didn't extend the gunport and oar port framing underneath the rear deck, I have gone back and forth about it. Although it won't be seen, and initially it seems to be a waste of time I don't know how you could successfully line up the false gun ports at the aft of the ship without building out the framework ahead of time. Anyway, the next steps will be finishing the frames on the current side and then building out the frames on the other side. I don't have plans beyond that yet as I expect it will take me a little while with real life commitments etc.
  5. After an extended pause to tear out carpet, refinish the hardwood and repaint the room then move back in the shipyard is back in production. Feels like forever. It took me a while to figure out where I was in the build and how to make tools work! But I managed to make some progress this weekend. First step was attaching my transom, that was a chore, the plastic I used to back the windows flexed out, I had to remove it and custom cut smaller pieces. I think this was a problem with having my frames set too deeply into the transom so the plastic was on the back, if they were recessed slightly the plastic would have been in the cutout instead of flat on the back where it could flex. I plan on adding another crossbar to the top of the windows as well as the metal work and the lettering later, I'm still having issues with the fit on the decoration piece. I painted the britannia all black then went over the raised filigree work with the same ochre thats on the transom. I installed the mast supports and waterways If you notice on the waterways I probably went too far aft with them and not far enough to the fore. I don't think it will be visible once I deck above it and put in all the masting and deck furniture but time will tell. Then it was onto the fore rail. Looking at this photo you can see my initial attempts at the knightshead and timberhead were horribly thought out, the knightshead was too thick to fit through the forerail and neither the knightshead or timberhead followed the curvature of the bulkheads so the rail didn't fit at all. I tore them out and started again pinning in the correct sized knightshead to the block up through the fore rail then I recreated my timerhead out of a block of balsa, carving the correct curvature into it. I then fixed the rails onto both sides and got a nice match up and good form. Future work will be putting in a knightshead of the correct size then bulking it out.
  6. Wish I could help but all I can really say is you've done a beautiful job up to this point so just keep on trucking, I hope you find something in another log that helps you out.
  7. Skip it looks great and I can't add any more to what the other folks have added. Keep up the good work and post up with us on the forum, I need more role models (excuse the pun) to chase in my quest to build a better (not perfect, just better) model. My longboat and my half section have a ton of flaws but all I got from this forum was support and advice.
  8. Welcome back Bob, as usual your work is beautiful, she coming along really well. Looking at what you've done makes me want to rebuild my kit
  9. And now I have to say a large pause will be taken in the shipyard. The Admiral and I decided to rip out the carpet monster and fix up the hardwood floors underneath in our hallway and workroom. I'm going to have to box up the yard and tear down my work area for awhile during the work. I expect I should be back up in a month or two. While the pause sucks at least I wont have parts eaten by the carpet monster anymore!! In the meantime I'll continue looking at the other builds and figuring out how to do the next pats of my Ratt.
  10. Thanks Eric I looked at your pics and went to the correct spots on your log (I follow your build earlier but I missed the sections with the timber heads) for the timber head and knights head, Ill pull out the pieces I put in carve the slots a little deeper and thicken them up a little. Great advice on overdoing them rather than under doing them.
  11. Seems like forever since I've updated, I took a break because I was stumped by the transom, I did some research and let the build linger while I tried to sort out how it should be handled, I'm still not sure I know what I'm doing but just letting it sit on the bench wasn't doing me any good either. I had built the window frames in the transom piece then popped them out to paint them. After they dried they had distorted quite a bit and would not fit back into the holes in the piece, this caused some breakage and swearing but I finally got them all back in order and installed even if a little damaged. I primed the transom piece in prep for painting, not sure if Ill flood one color then come back and highlight details or try to carefully paint the whole thing. Leaving all the transom pieces to dry I moved on to cutting the slots for the knights head and timber head in the forward blocks and standing up the pieces. I'm honestly not sure about the lengths and sizes of the timber head and knights head, the drawings are questionable in my mind and I was unable to figure it out from the other build logs. I'll revisit these next time I'm in the yard. This weekend I had a fantastic opportunity, I got to sail on this lovely lady, The Lady Washington In a mock battle against the ketch the Hawaiian Chieftain I took a ton of photos of the entire boat to reference them as I work on various pieces or the Rattlesnake. Hopefully I'll manage to make more progress this week or next, I think I just need to make headway regardless of right or wrong, if it turns out wrong then I redo it, but I want to make some forward momentum.
  12. Hey SL, it sounds like your instructions are a little confusing, I don't have that kit and couldn't find the instructions on line so I have to base my statements off of my limited knowledge. You will need to put on the keel, the stem and the stern post before you start planking, carving a rabbet into the former will allow planks to settle into a groove with good contact to the former and the end of the plank will sit flush with the keel, stem and stern posts. Take a look at this video it appears to touch on the exact point you are at, albeit fairly quickly and at a high level it might help you make sense of the steps you need to take. Oh, one other thing, for your mac to edit photos you can always try GIMP, it's the open source alternative to Photoshop. www.gimp.org
  13. From the early disaster to a very tidy little boat. Congratulations she looks good up with the others. ryan
  14. I put in the center and edge support pieces for the transom tonight, as I was putting them in I noticed that the center supports didn't reach from the bulkhead to the edge of the transom block, I fixed it by shimming in a small piece of scrap onto the bulkhead. The biggest issue with the placement of these, beyond being short, was ensuring they didn't block the windows on the transom. I gave myself some wiggle room by holding the transom in place and marking the bottoms of the windows, then extended these to the bulkhead to give me some reference lines to place the center supports between. After I put down the center supports I double checked with the transom held in place to verify I didn't cover the windows. When I was fitting the center supports I realized my transom block didn't have the correct angle (about 62 degrees is correct) so I did some more sanding, seems to be the story of my ship building, and got the transom block to the correct angle. I was then able to sand down the edge support pieces to the correct height (about 1mm too tall) as well as putting a bevel on the bottom so they would sit flat against the transom block then placed them. You can see the 62 degree angle I'm talking about in this picture. A random shot from the back And the last shot showing the correct 62 degree angle for the transom as well as a test plank bent into the rabbet over the blocks. I think the plank sits pretty well. It touches along the rear former and the rear bulkhead nicely but doesn't bulge out too far or give me any sharp turns, I think this will make a presentable rear end for my Snake. On a side note to the build one of the largest issues I have is what we term in the tech industry as "analysis paralysis" where if I'm not sure if I'm right about something I'll hem and haw and make no progress. I'm doing what I can to progress and suffer the possibility that I have to redo something or work around it later rather than be stuck moving no where.

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