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About md1400cs

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  • Location
    Santa Monica CA USA
  • Interests
    Commercial aviation (retired), aeronautics, diecast cars, 1/400 aircraft collecting.

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  1. Johann, I (we most certainly all have) learned SO much from following your beyond superlative work - no! art really - as always thanks for also posting superb build logs - I have attempted to emulate - well sort-of attempted to copy some of your work details in part of my current build - (many images from your work are in my files - yet to be attempted) That said, It's also been a wonderful way of trying to improve my work in this hobby - A big thank you And the pleasure of admiring your work is such a pleasure to the eyes and senses. Regards,
  2. Hello, Thanks so much for your likes (;-)) After some very good advice from E.J. – made some changes. Left off, his suggested, two broadside cannons. Then made the needed changes to the forecastle deck removing cathead holes just aft of mast. Added a cut for the lower halliard. Those catheads as I noted in an earlier post would have had no space to anchor to main deck given the inner two forward carriages. Instead decided upon halliard block; same as for main mast. And finished deck inner framing for grating and open area for stairs leading down. Kirill4 – ha
  3. Kirill, Just found your log for this project WOW !!!!- -- will go back and visit - All the details are so perfect, sails, flags, fittings.............every part is so well thought out and executed. Beautiful indeed.
  4. Hi Mates, Thanks so much for your continued interest, and likes - so encouraging indeed. Work in progress update; used McKay as a guide. Did look at several awesome logs in the Scratch Build Projects, and what I did notice was that the really great forward stems were cut, and caulked from large single bits of wood, then properly scarphed together. (PS: I’ll never be that good - lol) Working from a kit, and wanting to add better forward keel detail (first attempt at this) created some conundrums. I had to, obviously, use thin “cover” pieces on each side of
  5. LFN, So glad that you have taken some inspiration from my cross-section of the same kit. And very, very kind of you to note as much in your log. I was also a member that very much enjoyed following your Santisima that was weathered to the point of being un-seaworthy haha You are also "aging" this project...I'm on-board and will follow along. Very good start indeed. Again thanks for mentioning my build. Cheers,
  6. Siggi, Just discovered your brilliant log - Wow! superlative work. Spent an hour going through - thoroughly enjoying every post and image. I saved some of your images to inspire me to attempt to add some of your brilliant details to my current project - certainly not close to your level of work, but it will be a good challenge. Again amazing work - oh yes and your lion - as has been said - "over-the-top" amazing Respectfully,
  7. One last thought - per you question how to fix lines that don't go to pins? cathead with rails and or blocks on deck - loop and knot the line leave extra per what would be needed for a specific line. Yes needle threader is also good - remember that line would double in width as you pull the threader out - then return to a single width - sometimes making the result too small and "out of scale" Didn't mean to take over this thread - but I learned all of this from other members (especially images) - helped me a lot with the Vasa. Regards,
  8. Patrick. Yes - very unfortunate indeed - Here are comparisons of one of the stern lanterns - this one being the large one that is attached to the poop deck Now working on patterns for keel - I can't believe that this took the entire morning - at least they are mirror images on each side. Will cut the wood bits this week...matching the bits perfectly will take time as well - enjoying this part of the project.
  9. Yes and no - a technique I use; at the tip of any line for about 1/4" or so, wet the end of the rope with Gorilla Gel CA - then wipe away the excess with a cloth (thumb and index finger) the result will be a very hard straight tip - easily inserted through the bottom of a pin rail - or anywhere else for that matter.
  10. Peter: As always thanks so much for your overly kind posts - thanks as well for following - PS: your current build is a jewel re: scuppers - no I have not drilled them through - I only painted the insides black - I will however add to the outside of the hull drains for those as well as drains for the gun decks, only as visual perspectives - On my list 👌 E.J., Brilliant suggestion!! Yes, I will do just as you suggest - yikes never occured to me - this way I can also install the four chase cannons - And you are also certainly right in regard to the overcrowding and recoil is
  11. Patrick, Yes the cathead question is something that I thought of. Sergal shows a pinrail - Amati as McKay do not. All of the tie points are at the forward bulkhead upper railing in front of the foremast (hmmm?). I have not decided if I want to add sails, as I did with the Vasa - the extra work, and many needed extra pin locations is - well something to think about. McKay's rigging plates are really superb, that also include full sails. So regarding current situation - yes I have found a solution 😉 -bit of a less than good one - but it will be fine ...images speak f
  12. Hi Mates, A work in progress update that has caused some unforeseen issues (my fault); 1) Canons under the forecastle deck, and forward bulkhead – per the kit are eight dummies. Stubs to be inserted in kit provided balsa blocks. 2) Forecastle deck has large open area for stairs leading down to forward portion of main deck. So I planked that part of the main deck as well (was an afterthought) then wanted to add carriages and canons, instead of the eight dummies. – work is very average given the very minor view that it will provide – it wil
  13. barkeater is right - don't pre-glue any lines. I have found the following method to be very practical. pre insert your coil. run the line under the pin rail. leave lots of extra rope. put in pin - don't glue. Then later you can remove the pin as needed to adjust lines, then add a bit of CA to pin. lock into position. cut excess rope. add coil over the top. Hope this helps
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