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Bahamas Diver

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Everything posted by Bahamas Diver

  1. I used black annealed steel wire from Model Expo. I have 2 sizes depending on the size of the blocks and their purpose. I think they are 22 and 28 gauge wire. You can search Model Expo's web site for "annealed wire" to find them.
  2. Robert, Welcome back to the Niagara Club! I remember your log and pictures. I look forward to seeing more of your old log and new additions as you work on your ship.
  3. Mayohoo, Perhaps these pictures will help more than a written description would. 1st pic shows the block stropped and seizing added. 2nd pic shows the single and double block 3rd pic shows a simple jig for rigging and tying the blocks Hope this helps.
  4. Painting the hull was a fun process. I mixed black paint into the green paint recommended for the hull as I wanted the hull to be a dark green.
  5. Here the rudder and tiller are installed and the iron tiller support bar was added. I also added the brackets for the capstan bars and rigged them to the gunwale.
  6. The kit comes with metal anchor stocks which looked terrible. I re-fashioned the stocks from wood. The "metal bands" are made from manila folder stock blackened with a sharpie.
  7. Hi Steve, I know I had a number of gotcha's but I am having trouble remembering many of them. As for the wood quality, I had no troubles with it. There is no mahogany as I recall. Since nearly everything is painted (thee is not much that is stained or left "bright" it is not necessary to buy other woods. If however, you are not going to paint your model, then getting better quality woods would be a wise idea. When you start your Niagara Build Log, I'll follow it. If i think of things as you progress I promise to comment on them (esp. the gotcha's)
  8. the hull was time consuming but fun. The difficulty of this model is that it is single planked. This means the the ends of each plank must be attached to a bulkhead, making the staggering of the planks bit more difficult. On the other hand, because the hull gets painted some errors in planking can be covered up with paint. After the hull was planked I filled in any gaps by laying a thin line of white glue in the gap and then sanding over the area. This let the sawdust from the sanding attach to the white glue and fill the gap.
  9. Larry, Patrick is exactly correct. The stern filler blocks must be level with the horn timbers. getting the shape of these filler blocks was one of the most difficult activities of the build. Take your time and shape slowly. I will add some photos of that pert of my build on my build log. Also feel free to ask me any questions and I will help as much as I can.
  10. Building one of the 3 launches. The clinker planking is made out of manila paper from a file folder.
  11. Thanks Patrick. This is going to be an interesting task...rebuilding a log. Like you, I am probably going to only up load pictures as I have been working on my Niagara since September 2010.
  12. I will be attempting to re-construct this log over the next few weeks. A picture of me (in the middle) while working as a volunteer sailor on the Niagara, with the decedents of Oliver Hazard Perry.
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