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  1. Another tricky rigging task completed with the addition of the catharpins and futtock staves and shrouds to the mizzen mast. As can be seen in the photo it is not the work of a master but, once again, compared with my last build it is a marked improvement. I found it better to add the catharpins either side of the mizzen mast. I found fitting the futtock stave the most complicated aspect of this task but it was not as bad as I first feared. When adding the catharpins I did experiment with using 0.5mm copper wire (as per DelF on Speedy) but I ended up using 0.5mm black
  2. Thanks Derek. I'm slowly getting better trying to use the methods shown on MSW by better builders such as you. That is great tip on trimming, thanks for sharing. Wrapping the excess lanyard around the shroud was a challenge at times. I used a needle to help thread the lanyard end back over the top of the deadeye.
  3. After many trials and tribulations over the last 7 days I have now finally completed the mizzen mast shrouds. As the two photos below will show I am no master craftsman with regards to this aspect of model ship building. This did really test my patience at times and I lost count of the number of times I had to redo various bits, adding new shroud lines, redo the lanyards, etc. I did find it very fiddling working with 3mm deadeyes but the jig I made proved to be a very useful tool in forming a nice loop, seizing and then placing the deadeye in the shroud line. The tying off of the l
  4. Having spent most of this week working on the mizzen mast shrouds and lanyards I was feeling pretty pleased with myself this morning with the end result. I started to look at the ratline spacing so I could position the futtock staves. I was a bit concerned with the spacing between the shroud lines at the top. I had a look at the plan sheets to see to see if my concern was just a flight of fantasy. Looking at the plans I noted my shroud lines did not match up, it was then that I realised I had made a major mistake. I had seized the shroud lines around the bottom of the mizzen topmast instead of
  5. Thanks Derek. You can always reduce the diameter of the dowel to get a tighter fit for the deadeye in its groove. I would never have thought of it if I had not seen your use of the drill bit.
  6. The title of this post is called the good, the bad and the ugly. The Good - Part 1 - Mizzen Shrouds Using 0.75mm black thread I added the two shroud pairs and the two single shroud lines in turn. I used black flying tying thread to seize the shroud lines around the mizzen mast, using alternate top and bottom half hitch knots The Bad - Spacers for the Deadeyes After looking at the plans and build pictures I decided where the deadeyes needed to be positioned at the end of the shroud lines. I bent two lengths of wire to the required distance. They look pret
  7. I have contemplated redoing them however they look reasonably OK to the naked eye. I might be tempted to redo the two side ones at some stage.
  8. I have now fitted the four bowsprit stays and the work on rigging the bowsprit is now complete for the time being. Tomorrow I will start work adding the shrouds, starting with ,the mizzen mast shrouds. The rigging of the 4 x bowsprit stays was a tad fiddley and, at times, tested my patience. I was not happy with the amount of tension I set in the deadeye lanyards but they do not look too bad to the naked eye. Once completed I coated the rigging with a heavily diluted solution of pva. The first bowsprit stay Birds eye view of the two two side bowsprit s
  9. Thats true, adding the first bowsprit stay was a bit of a challenge but not as bad as I first feared. The final 3 bowsprit stays will be easier. Then I'll start adding the shrouds.
  10. Gammoning and Spritsail Tye I have started the rigging. I decided to start by fixing the spritsail, which I thought would be easier to do before the bowsprit was positioned on board. I then thought it would be a good idea to rig the spritsail tye blocks. The bowsprit assembly was positioned on the hull. I did not use any glue thinking if I rig it properly it should be held firm. I also noted that the jibboom was at a slightly jaunty angle. I did contemplate trying to remove the jibboom but thought I could do more damage trying to do so I decided to live with it.
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