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About glennard2523

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  1. I really admire the work you have done so far on this scratch build. A true master craftsman at work
  2. Can't work without them. I use my normal reading glasses for general work and the headband with 4 interchangeable lenses for the detail work which I bought on Amazon. The internal light is no use, but I do have a powerful adjustable white LED lamp, normal used for runners, bikes) with a head band but rarely have to resort to using that.
  3. When looking at ways to rig, the lines are coated with wax (Normally beeswax) to enable the builder to shape the rigging, for example around a dead eye so the line stays in place prior to stropping. I bought a block of beeswax and have run the rigging lines several times (up to 50 times through the block) through the wax but seem unable to get the same level of shaping. I have tried warming the wax before I run the thread through it. Has anyone else had this problem?
  4. I building Caldercraft Victory ( 10 months into the build and started fitting out the Quarterdeck, highly recommend it, but not for the faint hearted
  5. I used a pin pushed for the inner planks, and you also can get them with an auto stop to prevent pushing in to far (have a look at CMB web site). I then used map pins for the outer planking, and found it best to use a small panel hammer to help push in
  6. The problem with the marking was partly my fault as I did not check the cut-out shapes on the sheets with the manual. JoTika were brilliant and sent the replacement parts quickly and these were correctly etched. I suspectthey my have adjusted the tooling to avoid this error in future
  7. Hi I opted for the Caldercraft (JoTika) kit after much research. I have been impressed so far although I'm only a few hours into the build. I did have a problem, and found JoTika to be very supportive. Glenn
  8. I did find this bit difficult to understand when I built this model last year, I remember I had trouble sorting out the position of the gunwale, and over trimmed the pre-cut pieces and then had to add some filler pieces. I'm not sure mine was 100% correct when fitted but looks OK. Have a look at my pictures http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4646-scottish-maid-by-glennard2523-al-kit/page-1
  9. I was reading The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge last night. In particular I was interested in a drawing showing how a singe and dual block were rigged to help secure a cannon. The single block seemed to be held in place by a continuous rope wrapped in a figure of 8 with two beckets, one at end end of the block. Please see the attached pdf file. I would be interested to know how this type of rigging would be done for the model, boat builder as I suspect the normal thread may be to small to splice into a continuous loop. Cannon Blocks.pdf Any thoughts / ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  10. I simply extended the keel slot lines with a pencil then dry fit each bulkhead in turn using the extended lines as a guide and then use a set square to confirm they are square. I would suggest you mark the beading line with the bulkheads dry fitted and trim the keel as necessary at the stern prior to glueing the bulkheads. This is also the recommended method as detailed in Keith Juliet's book. I'm this stage with my current build which I will start in earnest after the Xmas break and will post some pictures in due course.
  11. I received the HMS Victory Owners' Workshop Manual today which is a very informative book packed full of information and pictures.
  12. I am interested to know the different methods / knots used for securing a shroud to a dead eye. One method I have found is as per the attached pdf file. Dead Eyes.pdf
  13. Does anyone know of a UK supplier for Weather-It? I can only seem to find a USA supplier
  14. Many thanks I have found more information on this web site in a older topic and an another web site. I think I will try soaking wire wool in vinegar for 24 hours mix with either water or tea to see what gives the best effect.

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