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  1. I have now started work on the masts and yards. My bench saw is out for delivery and is expected to arrive later this afternoon. I have started work on the bowsprit and jibboom. The bowsprit requires a 6mm dowel. In order to help aligning the various parts to be fitted I start with a centre line. I simply clamp a 3mm wood strip to the dowel and then I can draw a line along the entire length. As I will use the bench saw to make the angled end cuts I moved on to making the jibboom. This requires a 115mm long 3mm dowel which tapers to 2mm. I like to identify key poi
  2. I have ordered a Proxxon KS230 mini bench saw which should arrive later this week. I think this will help me with the production of the masts. I will be able to make a clear angled cut for the two ends of the bowsprit. I also plan use the bench saw with the fore, main and mizzen mast shaping, helping to make a round dowel square for example. I already have a Proxxon DB250 mini lathe which is great for tapering the dowels. I have started assembling the gunwale and ribs for the Fore, Main and mizzen masts. These parts were removed from the wooded sheets and glued (wood glue) and then
  3. Thats what I did also. I really enjoyed making all the inboard deck items. The grating for the middle hatch needs to be fitted later so the anchor ropes can be added. The other option, if the grating is already glued, is to fit the rope to the middle hatch assembly before it is glued to the deck.
  4. After completing the cannon assembly yesterday I have now fixed the main deck items in place. Photo of the timberheads I have test fitted the 6mm dowel which will be used for the bowsprit and there were no problems. Photos of the deck items. I made sure the staghorn cleats were installed the right way up, shot garlands are only dry fitted as I need to add the cannon balls. I like the look of the DOK deck in this photo. The side steps have been fitted. I plan to fit the channels after I have completed the mast a
  5. This post details the method I used to assembly the 6 off 4-pounder cannon assemblies. The rigging of the cannons will be covered in a later post. I thought about painting the carriages, red for the sides and black for the wheels and carriage bed but I have opted to leave them unpainted. Cannon Assembly Stage 1 - Part Identification Each cannon comprises several components, which are: 2 x Carriage Sides, 1 x left sided and 1 x right sided 2 x Front Wheels and 2 x Rear Wheels 1 x Front Axle and 1 x Rear Axle 1 x Carriage Bed 3 x Eyebolts 1 x Cross
  6. Nice work, looks very good. You are making very good progress. I have just completed the assembly of the 6 off 4-pounder cannons. I should be moving on to yards and masts next week. I'm waiting on a delivery of some thin fly tying thread I've ordered before I can start rigging the cannons.
  7. Thanks Derek Bring retired means I have plenty of free time and as I really enjoy making the small sub assemblies I do tend to spend all day in the shipyard. I have had issues with stove chimney ( and folding other PE parts) on previous projects. I saw a video on YouTube by John Builds Iconic (when I was building Yamato) which used a two steel ruler approach to fold delicate PE parts. I simply added the clamping element for the stove chimney.
  8. Thanks Jim The masts and yards will be next on the agenda once I have built the 6 cannons, which I'm also planning to rig (breach and rear tackle).
  9. This post details the method I used to build and install the two step assemblies, including the left & right aft deck rails, the two quarterdeck gunwales and the quarterdeck rail. Ladder Assembly The steps comprise an inner and outer ladder side. These have been designed to account for the curvature of the deck. When I removed the ladder sides from the wooden sheet I added a small pencil mark on the two outer ladder sides for ease of identification during the actual assembly stage. There are 8 steps per ladder and a decorative fascia patterns for the two inner ladder sides
  10. Great spot Chris. They will be the right way up when glued in place. I was more interested in how they fitted in the locating hole at this stage. Many thanks for your positive comments also.
  11. Today’s tutorial is about the method I used to assembly the Stove Chimney. I thought this might be of some interest because I have trouble getting good clean bends on previous models. The method outlined below has solved the problem for me. I have also added a small section on the 4 off staghorn cleat beams in this post. Stove Chimney Assembly The first task, as always, is to ensure I have all the bits available before making a start. I painted the wooden base black before removing it from the sheet. The stove chimney (photo etched part) was cleaned in an acetone s
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