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Everything posted by glennard2523

  1. Thanks Rusty. I hope to start working on the mast and yard manufacture in the next couple of weeks. I am very impressed with your build.
  2. I thought today I would share some of my build methods in a bit more detail and I have focused on todays work which was the bowsprit bitt, ships bell and windlass assemblies. Parts Check Before I start any assembly I ensure I have all the parts. I also refer to the build instructions / photos for additional guidance. The picture below shows this. Bowsprit Bitt Assembly I started by removing the laser char from the two parts. I also rounded off the square tops. Once that once done I did a test fit of the bitt in the locating holes on the deck. In this ins
  3. Hi Rusty. I had noted the gun ports were painted red. I am planning to do the same. With regards to the rigging of the cannons, I think, due to the cannon assembly, it will probably limited to the breach rope and maybe the rear tackle train.
  4. I have had a very productive day in the shipyard as can be seen in the following photos. Test Fit Of Mast Dowels I decided to insert some dowels (of the correct diameter) in the mast holes as can be seen in the photos. I have not used all the kit supplied dowels as I had a spare length of 8mm dowel which I used for the foremast test fit. There is a very nice looking rake to the mizzen mast. Aft Rail If I was to tackle fitting the aft rail again I would not paint and varnish the capping rail prior to fitting the aft rail as the paint and
  5. Hello Darrel I am glad you are finding my build log helpful. I class myself as an enthusiastic amateur. I have found my building skills have improved from following advice I have found on other peoples logs.
  6. The upper aft rail has been assembled and I am currently waiting for the glue to fully cure. Please be aware the aft rails are very delicate. I have managed to snap off one of the support beams. It is not a major issue as it can be fixed very easily. In the meantime I have now added all the items to the upper deck, including all the cleats and eye bolts, excluding the belay pins for the mizzen bitts, which I will fit during the rigging phase. I have now started work on building the various items required for the main deck, which should keep be busy for a few days.
  7. I have found the LED light magnifier headset to be a real help when doing the close up work, such as the seizing of the blocks and eyebolts. Moving on from this morning work I have now fully rigged the ships wheel. I started off by cutting a 600mm length (this was a tad too long) of 0.25mm natural thread and starting with the centre point I wrapped this thread round the ships wheel assembly. Once this was completed I threaded the 2mm blocks / eyebolt and tiller assemblies to the rigging line. It took a steady hand and the magnifier headset to complete this a
  8. I thought I would start this post with a picture of the mid cabin bulkhead, complete with the mid deck bulkhead door canopy which has now been glued in place. Do not make the same mistake as me which was to remove the resin door canopy from the excess resin before it was painted gold. It makes much more sense to paint the dome and then once dry remove the excess resin. As indicated in a previous post I have been working on seizing the 2mm blocks for the ships wheel. This consists of seizing a very small 2mm block and then attaching an eyebolt, a total of 6 blocks with eyebolt
  9. HELP PLEASE Yesterday I soaked 20 eyebolts in an acetone solution to clean the PE parts. I then put the eyebolts in a solution of the AK Interactive photoetch burnishing and after a few minutes all the eyebolts had turned black, as expected. Today, when I started to handle the eyebolts the blacken effect started to disappear, and simply rubs off when touched. Am I missing as step with regards to sealing (or cleaning) the blackened effect prior to handling the eyebolts? Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated
  10. Today I have been working on the ships wheel and tiller. First task was to shape the tiller by rounding off the square edges. Once this was done I set about adding the 2 x 2mm single blocks. The first thing I did was to carefully run a 0.4mm micro drill through the blocks holes and then test fed some 0.1mm thread through the blocks. Next, using the quad hands, I started to seize the first 2mm block using 0.25mm black thread. Once I had completed the seizing I thought it looked a bit bulky so I then started again, this time using 0.1mm thread. I think
  11. This morning work as progressed well. The painted figurehead as now been installed and the lower cheek rail was put back in place without any problems. Prior to painting the figurehead I did try a dry fit and found in necessary to remove some of the excess resin casting bits from the base and back of the main figurehead part. I did manage to knock of the feathers from the top of the helmet however. Thankfully I was able to find the very small piece and using a touch of CA gel I was able to reattach without any problems. I have added the final PE decorations to the Bow ‘
  12. You have made a very wise choice with the Duchess Of Kingston. There are some great build logs to help you along the way.
  13. I have noted that the Lower Cheek Rail leading edge (the curly bit) prevents the installation of the figurehead. I have been able to release the Lower Cheek Rail on one side and I have now test fitted the figurehead without any problems. I noted on the pictures in the build manual the curly bit has been removed. I have also fitted the Catheads, the Cathead Support Brackets and the bow upper and low rails. I have now started painting the figurehead, the blue background is now complete and the paint is now drying. I will paint the gold bits in the morning. I have been usi
  14. Time for another update in my progress. The two attached close up photo's show just had badly I painted the hull, thankfully it is not that noticeable to the naked eye when viewed from distance😂. I have now fitted the rudder assembly. I took my time in shaping the upper stem of rudder so that there was sufficient clearance to allow the Rudder Pintles to be seated in the stern post. Looking ahead at rigging the wheel and tiller the 2mm single blocks look very small so I will need my LED hands free magnifier headband visor to see what I'm doing. I then proceeded to
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