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About MrBlueJacket

  • Birthday 08/22/1949

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Searsport, Maine
  • Interests
    Ship models, r/c planes

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  1. MrBlueJacket,

    I have sent a request to the info email from your web site for part information and pricing along with a attachment. Sadly I am a bit confused as to all the parts associated with what I am needing for my CSS Alabama (Blogs here at MSW), so I sent a attachment but might not have been clear enough on what I needed. Here's the attachment for what I need as my scale is 1/96. If you can help me out a little and let me know what parts are associated with the mast mounts and the prices with shipping will be glad to pay for them asap. I am getting the information off of your CSS Alabama plans which I did purchase and have helped tremendously with the build.


    Thanks for your time in this request!


    Parts needed are in black circled:



    1. MrBlueJacket




      I did receive your request on Friday, but it will take some time to get all the part numbers. Some are castings, some are laser cut wood, and there is chain also. I'll work on it this coming week.



    2. Jonathan11


      Excellent, I don't need the chain just the mounting parts if that helps and thanks for your time.

  2. And with the masts stepped, it is time to do the ratlines. It's just another one of those jobs that creates hours of great fun........
  3. Got to do the main stay and main top stay. These are much easier to install before the foremast goes in, as you can see from the picture. Small strips of paper towel were glued on and painted to represent the leather chaffing guards.
  4. And the mainmast shrouds are done. I will be doing the ratlines before the backstays so I have more space to work around.
  5. For the first shroud P&S I use the bent wire method (looks like a staple) - that way both sides have the same spacing. For the rest of the shrouds, I eyeball it to within about 1/32" and sieze it. Then I can tighten or loosen the lanyards, and also wind or unwind the shroud to get the final height to "eyeball" level.
  6. So we go to the next pair of deadeyes. Now the task is to make sure all the upper deadeyes are at the same level, which should be parallel to the waterline, not the deck.
  7. And so we begin the lower shrouds.The first shroud on each side, like the bowsprit, is critical to the alignment of the masts.Unless they are correct, the problems will mount later on. BTW, the masts are not glued in, they are held just by the rigging, like full-size practice. The lanyards on both sides are loose, then tightened up and adjusted to make the mast square before tying off.
  8. This is a clear case of not reading the instructions. The Notman is designed to guarantee a straight hull IF YOU READ THE DIRECTIONS. You are supposed to install the sub-decks before gluing the hull upside down. The sub-decks go on either side of the keel, sandwiching it. Because the edges of the sub-decks are straight, it follows that the keel must be straight. Mike, see page 4 when you get the manual. Nic PS - can you tell that reading the instructions is one of my hot buttons?
  9. To avoid problems, we have to think ahead about what needs to go where before the other stuff gets in the way. For example, attaching the Mizzen stay would be nearly impossible after the main shrouds are installed.
  10. Now starts the stepping of the masts. Here's the Mainmast being set up at the proper rake angle, as determined by the template provided in the kit.
  11. Lead fittings are subject to corrosion (lead bloom) and decay, eventually turning to white powder. If they are perfectly sealed with paint, that doesn't become a problem for several decades. However, I suggest you replace them with Britannia metal fittings (lead-free pewter) - you can find probably everything you need from the fittings section of our website.
  12. Mike, Since you are doing a build thread on the Notman, when it is done you will be getting 10% off your next kit you get from us. FOr the Red Jacket, that means a $63 savings. Nic

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