Bill Hime

Bill...I always begin with a Revell CS hull and make the necessary mods to create the hull I need.  I prefer to use existing engineered hulls...then I make the mods to them for my own purposes......and there is ample after marked CS hulls to modify.  My Glory of the Seas and Ferreira are also modified resin hulls.
 
Check those build logs out to see what I did there.
 
Thanks for looking in. I'll get lots done tomorrow...with pics to follow.
 
Rob

Thank you, Popeye and Bill, for the kind words.
 
Bill, I just alternated between a #11 x-acto and my sanding stick with 400 grit, taking baby steps along the way and checking with my calipers.  A draw knife would probably work a lot better, but I do not have one, and have never used one.  It might be a good idea for me to invest in one and learn to use it, as I used the same technique to fashion the octagon on the end of one of the masts (test-fitting when forming the mast support blocks during framing), and I'm not really as satisfied as I'd like to be with the end result.  Any suggestions for a good brand or size?
 
Thanks!
 
~Bob

Continuing on with the aft coaming area--
 
Here the blackened brass rods are fit to the skylight sashes, and dry fit on the frame--
 

 
 
The skylight hinges are trimmed short.  You can see where I've cut a small mortice in the skylight for them to sit--
 

 
 
The binnacle is started from a solid block.  I've also epoxied "glass" (cut from the plastic address window of an envelope) on the underside of one skylight sash--
 

 
 
The center is cut out of the binnacle block.  I've glued the hinges onto the skylight sashes, and you can see the effect of the glass in the skylight--
 

 
 
A top is made for the binnacle, and holes are drilled in the center.  A larger size from the top (the width of the compass) and a smaller one all the way through, to push the compass back out from below during test fittings--
 

 
 
In this photo you can see two sections of brass tube soldered together.  Inner tube will form a seat to glue the compass face to.  For the compass, I smeared the corner of a piece of white card stock with some stain, so it wouldn't be so bright.   Then I epoxied some "glass" to it.   After not doing a very good job cutting a tiny circle (that's where that little cut out in the corner came from), I got the idea to file the end of a brass tube to make a punch--
 

 
 
The punch worked great, but I ended up making another from the next smaller tube, as this left a little gap between the brass tube and the compass face--a hint of a gimble assembly--
 

 
 
After much frustration and delay with the companionway doors (re-gluing hinges multiple times), everything is finally there.  Some is glued, some is just sitting (the binnacle).   There's no hardware (i.e. latches, knobs, etc.) on the companionway doors, or the binnacle doors.  I'm still deciding whether to add anything to those.  I have a hard time controlling epoxy smears, and my CA has all gone bad, so for now they'll stay as is--
 

 
The binnacle is pretty short.   It's that way to stay below the companionway top, which overhangs its sides about and inch and a half.  
 
 
I think the visibility through the "glass" is just about perfect--
 

 
 
A longer "context" shot.   The deck is looking a lot more finished!
 

 
 
Ron
 
 
 

Continuing with the aft features:
 
I can't believe it's taken me all day for this progress, but here's what I've done.  (I often suffer from a need make progress,   but I must say--I did feel a sense of relaxation doing a lot this work--simply because it took so long, and I had to forget about actually finishing anything!)_
 
After making the top pieces of the companionway, check to make sure the capstan bars (in this photo a trimmed toothpick) will clear the companionway in it's open configuration--
 

 
 
Cut the pieces for the skylight "sashes".   A large part of why this takes me so long, is that I don't have milled wood the right size.   All of these pieces are sanded down by hand from larger stock--
 

 
 
Drill holes for the brass or iron (haven't decided yet) bars in these pieces.  Easier to do them in double sections before cutting them to their individual pieces--
 

 
 
Cutting the doubled pieces apart and filing the ends--
 

 
 
These are then glued on to the skylight sashes--
 

 
 
A number of hinges are made, out of brass sheet and wire, and then blackened, for the companionway, and the skylight--
 

 
 
Here's where I'm at.   The upper part of the companionway is done.   The doors have hinges glued to them.  The skylight sashes need some "glass" and their hinges, and then I'll glue the sashes onto the frame, and put the rods in--
 

 

 
 
Ron

Yesterday seemed to be one of those days when nothing goes right.
 
So instead of trying to finish the after cabin skylight and bell I decided to paint the box that goes just fore of the after cabin trunk. It will receive a mahogany top and two vent stacks and will stand on two legs.
 

 
I then stained the main mast and painted the main boom. The main boom needs a few more cleats and eyelets added before I can seal it up with wipe-on poly.
 

 
Every time I set another piece of the masts I'm amazed at how much sail area she has. There is a ring tail boom that extends out another 3" aft that I still need to make.
 
On several areas the masts call for 0.008" wires about 3/8" long. I assume they're for belaying or for routing lines. This wire is not included in the kit. I don't know if I can get brass that thin and I'm worried that if I use steel it will rust. Yet another thing I need to figure out before I can mark any one piece of the ship as finished.

Worked on the gunwalls today and the forecastle deck beams.

I finished up laying the bulwork extension around the stern...making that curve was a bit challenging...but I got er done.

Another angle....I only oiled the deck.....once the gunwall is finished off and painted I will sand and weather the decks

Now that I am nearly finished with the water(always details can be added)......I am getting ready to alter the forecastle and lengthen the bull works.
 
Once the water is finished it motivates me to get the ship going and correct.  I added the apple wood base..but still need to sand and stain it.
 
Rob

Yes.....the models design calls for a *BIG* ocean...not a typical light breeze diorama...but a *Hang on mates..we're in for a woopin* kinda representation diorama.  This was inspired by reading logs of clipper captains who described some of the worst waves and weather they ever had to sail in......
 
Montogue Dawson painted this magnificent painting of the Thermopylae in extreme weather.

And a bit of a closeup.  Once finished a clear coat will be added.

That is right Augie.  They are my favorite form...and I will continue to build them and display them actively.
After my Cutty Sark build:
I began my American clipper project...starting with the Glory of the Seas...The Ferreira(AKA CS)...Donald McKay(Currently)....and I have in the planning stages the Great Republic and the Dreadnaught.
 
These pages will be filled with Clipper builds in the future.......
 
Rob

I love the clipper form...and yes the rigging and sails are magnificent
 
I love building clippers set in realistic fashion.....not just quietly displayed on their pedistalled .bases.
This build will present the McKay in open green water under shortened sail......pressing against a high sea.
 
Fun
 
Rob

Among my many builds I have been planning a diorama build of the magnificent medium clipper, Donald McKay..the final ship of the quartet of Boston Built ships ordered by James Baines for his Black Ball line.
 
She was a wonderful combination of beauty and strength.  She was designed to be a heavy cargo and passenger carrier...unlike most extreme clippers that only had space for broken stowage..the McKay was slightly concaved below, she was also decidedly convex above and thus her great capacity.  Her figurehead was a representation of a Highlander, painted in the his Tartan array of the ancient McKay clan.   
She employed the recently devised Howes double topsails..a improvement over the the common rig of the day. The lower topsail yard was trussed to the topmast cap and instead of slings, was supported from below by a crane upon the head of the topmast. the lower topsail was set entirely by the sheets. The upper topsail set upon the mast above the cap and had it;s foot laced to the jackstay upon the yard below.  The ship could be reduced to close-reefed topsails at any time by lowering the upper topsails which would then lay calmly before the topsails...and if required, could be reefed without the use of reef tackle.
 
A modern application that require far less men then the old system.  It was an inovation that worked at sea extremely well.
Unlike most clippers of the period, her masts were not raked, but straight up...this prevented the sails from chafing during calms and reduced the backstay stress.
 
She was 2594 tons and was considered the second largest ship to sail next to the Great Republic. Her best days sailing is recorded as 421 miles in a 24 hour period and she regularly sped along at 18 knots.
 
I chose her because of her unique deck layout and that she was designed a passenger carrier by James Baines rather then for speed......and that she was proudly named of her builder...and that she was the last of a famous quartet..during the height of American production.
 
She will be set in an open ocean scene during a Cape Horn crossing.
 
Today I took a modified 1/96 Revell Cutty Sark hull and set it into its initial foam base.  Once the foam is set, I will remove the hull and begin modeling the water.
 
Rob

the instructions indicate laying the hull planking in several belts for the sake of accuracy and then painting the entire hull so you cannot actually see all the work you have done. I'll leave that to  younger or more capable modeler to achieve and plank it the way I know how.

a little further along, very little but I plan on taking my time.

Bill,
 
One word of caution-when I built my POB2, I found the 2 piece planksheers, when assembled on the deck, were about 1/4" too short. You might want to test fit the basswood ones before cutting into the Wenge.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Bulkheads all fit as they should now. Today I started laying out the keel pieces on the Wenge wood replacement. After trying to mark out the patterns with assorted white pencils, I decided to cut typing paper to board size, coated the paper using a Elmer's glue stick. I then surface sanded the board barely wiping it clean. Finally, I applied the paper to the wood and ready to trace kit supplied pieces on to it.
Below are pictures of the steps.
I work the next couple of days so I'll probably cut these out on my new scroll saw, (Thank to my Admiral!) Friday night
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill
 

 

 

 
 

Bulkheads all fit as they should now. Today I started laying out the keel pieces on the Wenge wood replacement. After trying to mark out the patterns with assorted white pencils, I decided to cut typing paper to board size, coated the paper using a Elmer's glue stick. I then surface sanded the board barely wiping it clean. Finally, I applied the paper to the wood and ready to trace kit supplied pieces on to it.
Below are pictures of the steps.
I work the next couple of days so I'll probably cut these out on my new scroll saw, (Thank to my Admiral!) Friday night
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill
 

 

 

 
 

Bulkheads all fit as they should now. Today I started laying out the keel pieces on the Wenge wood replacement. After trying to mark out the patterns with assorted white pencils, I decided to cut typing paper to board size, coated the paper using a Elmer's glue stick. I then surface sanded the board barely wiping it clean. Finally, I applied the paper to the wood and ready to trace kit supplied pieces on to it.
Below are pictures of the steps.
I work the next couple of days so I'll probably cut these out on my new scroll saw, (Thank to my Admiral!) Friday night
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill
 

 

 

 
 

This is actually the third time I posted the build. The first two had much more detail and I didn't feel like reposting all of that content. I followed your build and will post some pics as you get there. The planksheer and wale stanchions gave me about the most trouble during the build.
 
The basswood is a bit soft for detail. I may have to grab some harder woods for some of the detail parts. The bitts in particular are making me mad. I've probably put down 4" of chamfers 3/16" at a time on a sample piece and I have yet to get a good sharp chamfer consistently. I've tried scraping, cutting, sanding and I cannot get a consistent chamfer. I have some dogwood that I've been playing with. The grain is tight but it's a bit stringy to work with. I'd love to be able to afford boxwood. I cannot justify it though since I will be staining/painting according to the plans.
 
However the basswood does OK for the planking especially after a sand to 400. I can't say it's a very attractive wood but it comes out OK. The variation in coloration initially discouraged me but I like it after it's been stained. Gives the deck some "life."

You might be able to use some newspaper and some thinned wood glue to bond the blocks to a spacer and then drill the hole using a drill press and vice. Apply some isopropyl alcohol to remove the glue and newspaper afterwords.
 
Getting the hole drilled is half the battle. The other half is getting it lined up with the slot in the false keel at the proper angle. With the slot method you can simply trim or shim side to side to get the mast true. Fore-aft comes for free since the slot in the false keel is already at the right angle.
 
I guess you could insert the mast into the hole to make sure everything is lined up and then true the top of the block to the deck. Or you could just glue those blocks on however you want and put a tenon on the mast like I did! 
 
Also FWIW I used wood glue on the mast and bow blocks and CA everywhere else. I wanted to get max strength into those blocks since there is absolutely no way to fix them if one comes loose. I also coated each joint of the bulkheads with a fillet of glue.
 
And I coated the inside of the decked hull with wood glue thinned ~30% to keep the planks from moving around during final sanding. The distance between the bulkheads is a bit far IMO–I would add one or two more bulkheads if I were to revise the plans.

I discovered pretty quick last night after drawing the bearding line on the center keel that I just need to re-size the 3 offenders.  So today I will do just that. My next step will be to lay out the keel, stem and rudder on the Wenge wood replacement.
I think I will fasten the Wenge wood keel and stem before cutting in the bearding line with a sharp chisel. It will actually give me more control cutting up to the Wenge, especially with it being a substantially harder wood. I will use a plank to check the depth as I progress.
 
Alistair,
Thanks for the quick feedback last night. You are definitely spot on !
 
Augie,
Yes it does call for some blocking. I plan to start with the middle two bulkheads, square them with blocking then work out from center. I'm sure I'll have a few more " not so good ideas" in this journey, lol. I just go back to what I was told by a wise Admiral, "Take your time",
 
jcoby,
Thanks for the feedback, and peak into the future ! I think I just had an answer to the mast receiving blocks. join two blocks together, drill a hole for the mast. Then cut the block in half, removing enough material from each to account for the thickness of the center keel. Align on each side and glue.
Lol, but that's a way's away. Thank you again, your insight is invaluable to me :)

Hi Bill
I'd be inclined to do the opposite of your approach. I'd lower the bulkheads by deepening the slot until their top edge is flush with the centre keel. If, on their lower edge, they are still too high above the bearding line I'd add shims to those edges until they all lined up. Test the shimming and fairing with a random plank and see how it flows. I think messing with the false keel is dangerous and getting the bulkheads to settle flush with it is as much about the outer planking as it is about the deck sitting properly. I had all of these issues on my AVS and never altered anything other than the bulkheads (and I had to alter them severely - shims and fairing).
 
That's my opinion - it is an interesting dilemma and I wonder what others think?
 
By the way, very nice lines on this ship - looking good.
 
Cheers
Alistair
 
P.S. I also add the keel and stem post before fixing the bulkheads in place. This allows this addition to be done on a flat surface and too be made very strong. Leave off the stern post until later. Others disagree with this, others agree with it...a coin toss and personal preference.

That looks exactly like what I had at that step. The bulkheads are hand drawn and the laser cuts are an exact copy of the drawings. Some are off. You will need to add material to several of them. Use strips of planking to get an idea of how the hull is flowing and sand as you go.
 
Just wait until you try to put together the life boat! 
 
The important thing here is that the reference line you made on the bulkheads matches the line on the false keel and that you fair the bulkheads in the correct direction. The fairing lines on the plans are pretty darn accurate once you get the bulkheads sized so you can be pretty aggressive about removing material. It's far easier to remove it before the bulkheads are installed.
 
I would also recommend taking the planksheer and placing it on top of the bulkheads for reference. You cannot adjust it and the hull must match the planksheer for everything to look sweet. The planksheer needs to sit outboard of the bulkheads by one wale plank width. (IIRC the wale is made of 1/8" square stock).
 
The plans also call for the blocks that the mast goes into be rounded. I thought this was insane. I could not figure out a good way to put an accurate round pocket into a square hole without using a mill so I just left it square and am careful when shaping the masts to get a good fit. You can see the hole for the fore mast and the main mast fitted in the picture below.