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milosmail

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Everything posted by milosmail

  1. Onward and upward (pun intended). I am pretty much done with deck details, and I will be moving on to mast construction. I only rigged 2 guns, as I don't like the cluttered appearance of a full complement of rigged cannons. I did the two just to show what it's like. By the way (see photo) I used Syren Shipyard blocks. They are true 1/8 (3mm) pieces. The new ones I got from ME were 5/32, just like the old ones that came with the kit - much too large for a good appearance. I will add coiled lines at a later date. I still need to add the bowsprit, for which I constructed all parts last year, and finish my cradle for the ship's boat which I plan to mount on the deck. I have the completed main hatch, but I want to position the boat before I glue the hatch in position. I may add the channels as well, as they have been fabricated. Some notes on photos: I built galley stack from scratch, and I added a stair well to the fore hatch (I'm assuming there had to be some access in the fore part of the ship). I made the pin rail braces from 0.025 in. piano wire which I bent into a simple "7" shape and slipped under the rails where plans indicated. Using super glue, I did not need to drill mounting holes... Each pin rail has 2 short pieces of wire underneath with holes drilled into the bulwark to secure with superglue. You can't see these support wires. I will probably mount channels the same way. Water pump was scratch built with the use of plastic strip for details. Now that I know how to silver solder (turnedd out to be super simple with solder flux, heat pad, and a small hand torch acquired from Amazon), I would have done it that way, for a better look. Simulated bolt heads on the canons and capstan were made by drilling shallow holes in the object and glueing in short sections of 22 gauge wire. Once the glue set, the wire was trimmed. As many other builder have done, I only installed two cabins to avoid the crowded appearance of three. The current ship has three, but I am assuming the original had fewer - certainly a companionway at a minimum. Also, I did not use the binnacle I purchased. There must have been one on the 1812 ship, but the model piece did not look 'right'. Current ship appears to have a binnacle plus engine and other controls on top of the captains skylight... Taped lines will be used for the boom guy. Since they attach to the same eyebolt as the tiller sheets, I thought it would be easier to add them now and rig later. There are several spots where various sheets are secured to the deck or rail, but I am unsure about adding all. Some attach to the clew of triangular sails, etc. Without sail, I'm not sure they would be present. (On a modern racing yacht, they are usually removed and stored when sails are stored or furled.) Well, anyways, I am now going to assemble the bowsprit (but hold off mounting) and construct the two masts. I won't add the bowsprit until the masts are installed. My desk workspace is limited, and I am in fear of snapping the bowsprit off due to my carelessness at some point....
  2. Sergey, you are right on. I meant they sent me 4mm (5/32), and I am asking for 3mm, which is about 1/8in. I have some 2.5mm, but lack the patience to use them in large quantities. I have used them sparingly, such as with the tiller blocks.
  3. Making slow but steady progress. Here is a picture of the bow area sans bowsprit and with a blank dowel foremast placeholder. I rebuilt the kitchen stack from scratch and I added an entry with stairs in the forward hatch. I have all furniture completed as well as channels. I have installed the rudder and attached blocks to the tiller, but I am waiting for an order with ME for my 1/8 (4mm) replacement blocks. Kit was shipped with a large quantity of 5mm blocks which (while almost the same) look very much out of proportion. I noticed this when I rigged a gun. So tiller will be completed when I have blocks for boom guy (which share an eyebolt with the tiller tackle). I also plan to make a cradle for the ship's boat that will sit over the main hatch midship. I am also waiting for additional bronze pins for the fife rails - I miscounted the number I needed when I first ordered from Ages of Sail. This is my bit of vanity, as I should have used wooden pins for historic accuracy.
  4. I second the comments on the wood quality. I had a LOT of trouble trying the construct a ship's boat, as the wood would splinter or otherwise resist making clean shavings when shaping the interior.. I purchased some holly strips to plank the deck, and I made cabins with mahogany. Many other builder have done much more substitution. I also found the supplied lines to be inadequate. They frayed, unraveled, and broke easily, so I bougt line from Syren Shipmodel Company. I replaced the cleats with wooden ones likewise purchased from Syren (cleats in 1812 were typically made from wood probably to save cost and they were easy to fabricate). By the way, please note that the kit does not supply nor can you purchase all the sizes recommended on the plans. Blocks - well, the kit supplied blocks will do the job, and most people would not notice their irregularitites. Syren's blocks are excellent, but to replace all might run $100 or more. By the way, count your blocks. I found I had been shorted one size, but Model Expo shipped me more at no cost. Guns - The carronades are twice as long as they should be, but repacing them is not easy so I stayed with those in the kit. Gun ports are way too large for a real naval vessel. As for historical accuracy, as mentioned there is no accurate information available. The current ship has to meet US Coast Guard standards) Hull colors are unknown as existing paintings done at the period are unclear on this. Deck bulwarks of the period were typically red, not green. Cabins - too many for a working naval gun deck. I have left two off. It's been mentioned that they would interfere with the capstan, but I have seen other historically accurate ships with similar configurations - they probably just did not use all 8 capstan bars at once...the current ship undoubtly uses an electric winch for hoisting spars and anchors, so the existing one is for show. Ships's boats - unlikely it carried 3, and definitely not slung from davits. Hammock netting - maybe they had it, maybe they didn't. I don't like the way they look, so I left them off my ship. Rigging - rigging changed constantly at the discretion of the captain and ship's master. Modern rigging of the ship is designed for crew efficiency and safety. So, probably not historically accurate, but looks nice. Even today's ship has changed configuration since the kit was released. See the discussions on adding bumkins to the bow area as done by some modelers. Binnacle - the ship must have had one (probably stowed below when a battle was being fought), and a recent photo showed one installed over the existing captain's cabin skylight. I am leaving this cabin off, but I did find a very nice and inexpensive scale replica of a binnacle for the period on the Crafty Sailor web site. So, I'm adding that. History: I found a good article written by Joel B. Sanborn@Dartmouth.edu titled History of Niagra and published in Ships in Scale in the March 18, 2001 edition. There is also a UTube video about the Niagara and the history of it's actions on lake Erie in 1812 and 1813.
  5. Hope all builds are going well in the new year. I am about done with the pin rails and their braces. I have all the various deck furniture parts made, but I still need to install catheads, rudder, and the rest before starting on masting. Pictures will follow in a few days. I have a couple of questions: 1 - drawings show an eyebolt on the aft side of the catheads inboard to the brace rod, but nowhere do I find anything attached to it. Can anyone remember what fastens to it? 2 - this is a biggie... is it better to fully assemble the bowsprit and its accompanying pieces before installing, or should I just fit the the main section into the bow and attach the other pieces at a later date?
  6. Nice work on the shrouds! I, too am not adding hammock netting. It never ends up looking 'authentic' and the deck is pretty cluttered anyway. I have replaced all the cordage for the ship with Siren, after finding the ME stuff pretty tedious to work with. I have 8, 12, 18, 35, aand 45 as needed in tan and dark brown. Very happy with it. There is another build log that lists about how much to purchase, but I'm just estimating so far. I suspect it will cost about $100 for all the replaced line. I also bought cleats from Syren for the ship, as they are more to scale. Each builder will have to make their own decisions on many of the constructs of the ship (and how much extra they want to spend). Do they want a ship that is an accurate representation of the reproduction, or something more historically accurate (but not necessarily litteraly accurate)?
  7. Side topic: Thoughts on some historical accuracy - I have been getting ready for the long and heavy stint of rigging the ship. In preparation, I have read many of the logs posted over the past 10 years, and I found sveral discussions regarding the 'crowded nature of the deck'. I have been thinking on this also, as I too felt there was too much stuff. In fact, I have planned, for some historical accuracy, to add a binnacle while removing the captain's cabin (which I believe likely did not exist). Today, I was reviewing modelers' photos, and I wondered if part of the problem was the size of the kit supplied carronades. I did quick research on Wikipedia and the Naval Archives, and I found that a typical carronade was no more than 3 feet long and usually shorter. At the scale of the ship, and using the scale found on each ME chart, the guns should have been less than 9/16" long - not the 1 inch supplied with the kit. Halving the size/scale of each gun would free a lot of deck space. Not sure this really matters to us builders, but there it is....
  8. Currently convinced model ship builders are all OCD, myself included. I am in the midst of attaching 60 rings to 60 small eyebolts for the breech line and inhaul. Very repetitive, very tiny parts, very boring.... Only thing worse (maybe) is tying the ratlines to all the shrouds.....🙃😄😉
  9. Thanks. I did try some small ball heads, but the wood didn't seem to want to cut cleanly - maybe because the kit was purchased over 20 years ago and the wood was too dry. It seemed to shred rather than come off neatly. However, all's well that ends well. An aside: I bought the kit in 1997 or so, having built the Mantua Ironside cross section. When I received the kit and read the manual, I knew I was in over my head! This is not a beginners kit... I spent the next 18 years building a few simpler kits, purchased some tools, and I purchased two of Bob Hunt's invaluable practicums to learn technique and improve skills. Started on the kit in 2018, with some stops and restarts along the way. I think I'm a journeyman builder now which works for Niagara - a kit where most pieces need to be shaped by the builder and plans are very detailed (but instructions are not). I would call this an intermediate kit, as it doesn't need any intricate carving and detail, which is seen in construction by many of our expert builders.
  10. I decided to take a break from deck work this summer and build (actually finish) the cutter. As I mentioned before, I am only building and detailing one, and I plan to position it over the main grate area, more or less. I think this is a more likely position historically - based on no real knowledge. I will build the yawl in the future, but I plan to simulate a sail cover, so I won't be detailing. I started on this item about 3 years ago when I glued up the pieces and shaped the exterior. Very straightforward. But when it came to shaping the interior, I found this a real challenge. I tried using my Dremel, but could not find a tip that would allow the detailed shaping I needed. I consulted several articles in NRG and other modelers builds, but they all seemed to say the same - just carve and sand the interior, whithout actually explaining how to carve it cleanly. I tried various types of chisels without much success until I purchased a set from Micromark. I also found a reference that said to finish the detail smoothing with putty (I used Tamiya putty thinned down a bit). This made quick work of the process which had kept me from advancing for a loooong time. I learned I could make the ribs and floorboards from strip plastic, and the rest of the interior such as stern and bow sheets from basswood sheet (copying the plans for templates) plus mahogony strip for thwarts. I separated the rudder from the keel, made a tiller, and laid it inside after completing painting. I left out the oars, as I felt it would just clutter up the interior. The hull is the same black as the ship's hull with green trim using the same color again as on the hull. I'm happy with the results, and it was an excellent learning experience. Meanwhile, I have built all the deck furniture from cathead to rudder/tiller, plus the bowsprit. So, no more stalling - next week I will start installing cannon.
  11. OK, all finished! I built the skiff in a few days/weeks/months/years - depending how you want to count. Once I solved all construction problems, I built it in a couple of months; working an hour most days except for vacations and resulting severe cold (ha). Lots of time went to waiting for glue or paint to dry. Attached is a photo of the finished product, sans oars which I felt would just clutter it up.
  12. Thanks for all the encouragement. I came up with another solution based on your suggestions. I used the billet E as a stencil, using the top component as the best shape. This would be the piece directly under the caprail. I was able to enlarge it slightly, and then - using my compass as suggested by Toni (tlevine), I created a 1/8 in. wide caprail. This accurately created an even/mirror image shape and width as originally planned, and hid my minor irregularties. I also found it MUCH easier to deal with the 1/32 basswood, which arrived 3 weeks late from the seller. Once the caprail is on, I will add the fender to the hull. Originally I tried cutting from birch ply, but that was a disaster, and I think it spooked me. I will post my solution on my build log, along with photos of the finished skiff (cutter), one of these days. PS: I plan to build the yawl with a cover, and do not plan to finish the interior. But, given how easy this went, I will include a fender and caprail.
  13. Realy nice work! I'm about ready to start with rigging, but I have spent the past month to interrupt workflow by building ships boats. Have you built yours yet? I am not sure how to build a caprail for them. Any ideas would be appreciated. The rest has been pretty straight forward; used styrene strip for most of the detail, and birch for seats and the two sheets at bow and stern. Debating how to make elbows....or just leave off.
  14. I have been working on the cutter for my MS model of the Niagara. It is progressing well, but I have met one obstacle - how to construct a caprail. Kit did not provide this piece, and I can't figure out how to construct except from perhaps a flat sheet of thin wood. The caprail takes a very pronounced curve at the bow. It is not feasable to make this by bending a strip of wood (or, at least I don't know how), and making a quality caprail by cutout from sheet wood is beyond my skill level. I will have the same problem with the yawl/stern boat. So, I am looking for advice from those who built these before.
  15. Here are a couple of photos of the binnacle mentioned earlier. This one is 1:64 scale sold by Crafty Sailor, manufactured by Falkonet. It was a simple kit with well fitting parts - mahogany I believe with a brass machined lantern stack. The interior cross brace piece below the windows has a print of a couple of compasses on it. As I discussed, I can't imagine in 1812 they sailed without one, even if they stayed within sight of land (?). And the current Niagara has a binnacle roughly where the model has placed the captain's skylight. At least that is what I see in the photo in my Spring issue of Sea History (it was an ad for a 2 week cruise on the Niagara this summer). No sign of a captains skylight, but it may just have been out of the picture. Anyway, I'm going to place my binnacle just forward of the tiller, and leave the captain's skylight off. Comments?
  16. I have been working on the catheads. As many previous modelers have mentioned, the catheads supplied with the kit are not shaped accurately, in that the acute angle where the part arches over the bulkhead is not severe enough to properly meet the bulkhead and also arch over the side without leaving a large gap at the cap rail. This part should rise up the ceiling in contact with the interior bulkhead planking, and then bend such that it fits flush on the caprail. Without a modification, the knee below the caprail will also not fit properly, and the whole unit will not provide sufficient clearance for the anchor. I reviewed what several modelers did, along with their photos (search on Niagara caphead), and decided to severely notch the bottom portion of the cathead which arches out over the hull. To get a good fit, I also notched out a piece of cap rail and the top plank on the bulkhead, thus permitting a clean installation of both pieces. Caution: be sure to properly support the cathead. I snapped one in to at the bend, and had to repair with CA. See photos attached. The cathead on the left in the photo is unmodified. The one on the right has been 'shaved' and now meets the interior bulkhead and knee properly. Other modelers have taken different solutions. I suggest any future builder review all and make their own choice on how to proceed. PS: I also reviewed several actual catheads on 18th. and 19th. century ships for which I found photos. Everyone seemed to do it differently, but mostly they just stuck a large beam out through the bulkhead.
  17. Top notch work. I enjoy the read, as I am about 3 months behind you. I should be into the eybolt/block business shortly.
  18. Question of general interest. The model has no binnacle. Yet, the current ship at Lake Erie has a binnacle with navigation and engine/elecrical controls just forward of the tiller - roughly where the captains cabin skylght on the model is located (based on the photo I saw). So, is there really a skylight there, and/or why is there no binnacle on the model? I know binnacles of yore were portable, but with the skylight and then the companionway installed, there would have been no room for a binnacle. By the way, Crafty Sailor sells a binnacle cabinet at the 1:64 scale so I went ahead and bought one. Nice quality small kit.
  19. I fnd it surprising there are so many sheaves running through the wood. I wonder if this is true to the way the current ship is built. Each 'hole' in the wooden mast/spar weakens it a bit. Modern ships hardware includes a variety of sheaves that can be firmly attached to a mast, and would be used. Also, with time, sheaves occasionally wear out. Simpler to replace an attached sheave than one imbedded in a mast. Then there are the sheets running through the bulwarks. I'm pretty sure that the original Niagara did not have sheets running through the bulwarks as there is a great deal of tension on these lines when in use on a given tack and a tendency to pull out the railing. By the way, I used bullseyes to simulate the sheaves for these four points in the railing. Worked well. Enjoying your posts, thanks.
  20. Very nice work. I just finished the bowsprit, etc. and find myself ready to install all the deck fittings. I'm going to buy the hooks from Crafty Sailor as that looks to be a major time saver. I just tried my hand for the first time at silver soldering, with success. I was a bit nervous, but found it simple to do. I made the bobstay ring and added the metal strop using a brass eyebolt. Easy peasy to do, so I will follow your path in making the other parts. I have a couple of 3 hand units from MicroMark that I used to hold the parts in position, which worked well. Incidentally, on what to do (or what is done) with the tiller line: I saw a photo of the deck at the stern while the ship was recently under sail. There is an additional jam block on the tiller which secures the line. Jam blocks did not exist in 1812, so I'm sure they did what you mentioned. Just anything that allowed the tiller lines to be quickly adjusted in an emergency... I also like the appearance of the stain you applied to the dowels, and I plan to follow suit as it looks more natural. Your blog has been a great help to me, especially warning me of 'gotcha's' and solutions to design problems. Thanks for your help.
  21. Thought I would post a bit about my bowsprit construction findings. From examining the plans, it looked complex (and challenging). But it turned out to be mostly straight forward. I am fortunate enough to own a Byrnes saw, so it was very easy to shave the square 3/8 dowel down to plan size of 21/64 on a side. I think a lot of other Niagara builders have either tried to sand down or left it at 3/8. Having done that (the easy part) I took a closer look at the details. First, I made a copy of the top and side views from the plans, cut them out and attached with 2 sided tape to the square dowel. It is important to realize the top of the bowsprit is flat and needs no shaping. Additionally, while the bottom appears curved, it is actually 3 straight sections. Sides do taper, but this doesn't start until outboard of the square section which passes through the hull and the octagon outboard of this section. So, it's not as complex as it looks. Rounding the barrel section can be done with a fine bastard, and it only took me about 15 minutes as this wood is very soft. After I finished shaping, I added the tenon at each end and shaped the bowsprit cap which were quick work. I made bees, but held off installing till I made the bobstay hoop. The kit did not include the necessary brass strip to make the bobstay, but I had spare. Shaping into an octagon was a bit tedious, and I left a small vertical tab on the bottom to attach the strop needed later for the bobstay. I made the strop from a large brass eyebolt on which I bent the straight end to grasp this tab on the hoop. Then i soldered these together (my first try at silver soldering - success!). I have a nice bar on the hoop now to which I can attach the bobstay blocks eventually. Finally I added all the chocks, treads, and cleats. It's ready to paint now, Hooray. Footnote- I wish the instructions or previous builders had mentioned that the two cleats need to be added AFTER the bowsprit is attached to the deck. It won't fit through the hole in the bow with cleats attached.
  22. I just found this build log. Marvelous and fascinating idea. There are a zillion details on the plan that are nearly impossible to replicate at the scale of the kit. I wish you a speedy recovery and good health!
  23. Hi Steven, I did make make replicas of the metal plates out of stiff paper. I made a template from the plans (which are not exact), and then I used Photoshop to replicate it multiple times on a photo drawing. First I blackened the back side with felt pen to simplify painting, and then I cut them out with a #11 blade. It only took a few minutes. I poked a pin through each plate, put a dab of CA on each carrage, and using the pin as a guide I was able to quickly position the plate properly. After glue dried, I painted the top of the pin black, and cut the pin down to fit the hole in the planksheer. Other people have either handpainted a black strip for the plate or manufactured from brass. My process was quick to replicate, and at the scale of the kit, I think it looked accurate. See photos in one of my posts. Your work is looking great. I wish I had the time to work at your pace. I am currently making more deck odds and ends - pin rails, channels, fife rails, and the catheads. My power tools are in my garage, and it's too cold out there to work (I know, people in California don't know what cold is). So I am working on items I can make at my bench indoors. I have a new Proxon DB250 lathe which I plan to try on the bowsprit when temps. rise a bit.
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