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Old Collingwood

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About Old Collingwood

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  1. I have three sets of glasses - one long distance to check for that kit part that "Pinged" far away, and mid focal pair for when I am getting closer, and a pair of close up ones for when I am right on top of the part - then a magnifying glass and tweezer to pick the damn thing up. OC.
  2. Just keep at it mate - practice make perfect and we all are learning as we go along - we are the Big learning club. OC.
  3. Also found these on Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=masks+for+revell+b+17+f&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Masks++for++Revell++B17F&_sacat=0 OC.
  4. Thank you denis, same here with checking the edges I have been doing a fair bit of checking and re checking and making sure they are square, an old trick O picked up is to put a slight bevel on the edges so the facing edge is tighter than the inward one. OC.
  5. While researching the Revell Mosquito a few things manufacturing errors came to light - firstly the main undercarriage units are not quite the right length and the wheels are made to large and to thin, giving her a to low frontal height, secondly the spinners are two flat and not pointed enough, the work around I have decided to try are to reduce the drop of the rear oleo leg by a few mil, and with the wheels I managed to get a pair of Airfix ones (they are supposed to be more accurate) with the spinners I will have a go at making more of a point on them with careful sanding. This should hopefully help a bit. OC.
  6. As craig said - sorry to hear about your missing parts nothing is more annoying or having wrong fitting parts in a kit. OC.
  7. Excellent info - just looked on Ebay for that Gator's Glue but no sign of it. OC.
  8. The floor and sides had to have quite a lot sanded away to get the sides to meet, even still its a fairly tight join - not much wriggle room, I will have to join the bottom fist then wait till its fully set before pulling and glue-ing the top in, that way I will make the joins as tight as possible. OC.
  9. Another good day - kicked off by dry fitting the inner cockpit against both frontal parts to test fit, at first they would not meet so I did some investigating then light sanding - investigating - light sanding etc etc etc.........I eventually found the point where both side met with the inside cockpit inside. Next job was to start fitting all the pe side wall parts some were quite fiddly not just fitting but picking up with fine nose tweezers, it took a few hours to file off some plastic moldings not needed - and re fit with pe, I did this on both walls then starting on the one side a ran some black and green paint in thing layers to preserve the detail. I also made up the range finding device for the nose that is made up by transparency parts and some pe. So this is the stage so far - including a dry fit of the one side minus some more paint and dry brushing. OC.
  10. Have a word with Craig I am sure he will have some tricks up his sleave. OC.
  11. You could try a rattle can satin top coat after you have put the rest of the decals on and closed up the body, that might help, as I assume in action would they have had a slight sheen to the skin of the heli ? OC.

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